subfame connectors

Crone

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I picked up at set of subframe connectors a while ago from the same guy i got the exhaust from. They were only 20 dollars and still never mounted so why not? lol But I can't figure out how they go on?? I looked up images of a bunch of different sets and finally found out they are mac. But they look different then the full length designs of Maxim motorsports and the similar styles. This is what they look like http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog2/images/suspension/Sf9440.jpg If external links to non vendor sites aren't allowed I'm sorry, the mods can delete this. has anyone ever dealt with the mac sfc's? My uncle is coming over to weld a rad support for my friend, so I was hoping he could weld these up for me if I could figure out how lol. Anyone?? Thanks- Bobby Pictures would be greatly appreciated!!
 

ram360

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I have a similar set on one of my foxes, they are nowhere near the same as the MM ones I have on my sn95 though. I might be able to get you a pic.
 
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Crone

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Yea they don't seem near as nice, but for 20 dollars, I would have been dumb not to, being on a high school budget at least. It will be better than nothing though, I would really appreciate that!!
 

ReplicaR

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What the hell are those things made out of? Old strut tower braces and umbrellas? You can not be serious about putting those on. Even on a student budget, you're better off doing nothing at all then doing those. Just save up and get something that actually looks like it would do something.
 

BruhBrahBrad

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ReplicaR said:
What the hell are those things made out of? Old strut tower braces and umbrellas? You can not be serious about putting those on. Even on a student budget, you're better off doing nothing at all then doing those. Just save up and get something that actually looks like it would do something.

And if replica says it, IT HAS TO BE TRUE!
 
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Crone

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I thought they looked kind of shody but for 20 dollars, i thought it might have been worth a shot, but replica seems to know his s***. Well thanks for the replies guys, i guess that'll be one more thing to add to my list of things to buy lol. I hope I'll be able to sell them.... :rolleyes:
 

DSTRBD

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Looks like the wide end mounts to the torque box area ?
 

ReplicaR

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95_5.0@15 said:
And if replica says it, IT HAS TO BE TRUE!

That's cute... Tell me something, what will twist more: A piece of sheet metal that's welded to subframe, and then stamped/welded to a round bar, or a box girder that is sitting flat on the subframe and is welded along the perimeter?

The whole reason why I'd take a square subframe connector over the round one is because it sits flat on the subframe rail, and grabs a lot more area than a tubular subframe connector ever could. You can have the thickest stiffest connectors in the world, but they are worthless if they are attached to 3 inch area. Also, because the square subframe connector is not using side metal tabs a primary mounting points, it will not flex there like a connector in the first post would.
 

duff daddy

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just go all out, cut your floors and put in some 2x4 boxed steel and make a cage lol
 

Mustanger

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Those look like the Steeda round tube Chrome Moly subframes....go search & read up on them possibly...
 

ram360

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not the same brand as yours but I have a similar weld in set on one of my fox stangs but same principal. The weld to the torque box area. Been on my car 5 years (t-top hatch) and drag raced it's a noticeable difference. If this car didn't twist w/ them neither will yours. I know there are quite a few guys using a similar design on fox bodys. It's been debated before and there is no proof besides someones opinion that one is better than the other. I have full length MM subframes on my sn95 so I do have experience w/ more than a few designs although comparing an sn95 chassis to a fox really isn't helpful as the fox has far more flex. Saying running nothing at all is better than using those I would have to disagree in that respect. WELD them in and you'll be fine. Here's some pics to help you out.


DSC_0021.jpg

DSC_0023.jpg

DSC_0024.jpg
 

ReplicaR

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It may be true that doing those is better than doing nothing for some people, but when you weld something on, I'd rather do it once, and do it right
 

ram360

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ReplicaR said:
It may be true that doing those is better than doing nothing for some people, but when you weld something on, I'd rather do it once, and do it right

There is nothing WRONG w/ the design and I don't why you keep insisting there is. A similar design works fine on my drag raced t-top fox hatch and the chassis stiffening they offered was significant. This car had far more chassis flex than a sn95. Been on the car 5 years w/o an issue. If they are welded in correctly they will work as well as any of the other brands. If they chassis isn't stiff enough for you then, weld in a cage. I have these, I have MM full lengths they are comparable....period.
 

ReplicaR

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http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog2/Suspension/subframe.htm

They are MAC subframe connectors. Mac is not exactly known for for making quality suspension products. If you wanna see a quality tubular piece, check out Maier Racing subframe connectors on the same page. Pay attention to how much longer Maier connectors are and how many more FLAT mounting points they have over Mac product.
 

ram360

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If the macs are a decent material they will make a difference in the car. I know the design works rather well and if the materials are up to par they will make a difference. Sounds like the car is a DD so I mean it's not like were dealing w/ a full blown race car. I doubt the chassis of this car is being taxed that much and even 2 mounting points will suffice. Nothing wrong w/ having multiple mounting points (I wouldn't complain if there were more!) Personally I like the sets w/ the t supports that bolt to the seat bolts. Really depends how far you want to take it. Obviously a set of thru the floor subs tied into a cage would be optimal but not everyone needs that. I won't loose sleep if he uses them or not....just throwing my .02 out there. I'm not here to argue. For what little he has tied up into them it's worth a try if they are a decent quality product.
 
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Crone

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Thanks for the pics ram! This car is my dd, and its a stock 302 so it's deffinatly not going to see the abuse that your throwing at yours, so with that info I'm going to put them on, I'll be welding them too, not bolting them, which should make them a little more effective. Worse comes to worse I can always grind the welds off and put a diff set on. Once my uncle comes back up with the welder I'll let you guys know how I made out. When I get the gears in it'll probaly help even more. Thanks guys- Bobby
 

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