Might have a bent rim :(

Rice_slayer

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Well, after replacing the wheel bearings and balancing/rotating tires I STILL get an intense vibration that starts at around 70kph(40mph) and goes to 110kph(70mph) and is worst at 90kph(55mph). I think I might have a bent rim, I backed into a curb last year(in a rush, friend on phone yelling at me, not looking where I was going... stupid!) anyways it has some good curb rash on it. It might be possible that I bent the rim as it STILL vibrates like hell. I worked an 11 hour day today so Im too tired to check it but tomorrow Im going to check to see if it's bent, if it is I want to see if its fixable, AFS doesnt make my type of Cobra wheels anymore :'(.
 

CC'S95GT

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Did you notice if the vibs moved from front to back or back to front? You should be able to feel it through the steering wheel.
If it's only in the front start looking at the tie rod ends.
 
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Rice_slayer

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I used to have the tire on the back(hence it was backed into the curb) and now when I put it on the front it started shaking more. I can DEFIANTLY feel it through the wheel, at 90kph the wheels rocks back and force like a force feedback wheel for a game would :p. I have to work in an hour, and we are pouring the concrete today so if my body can take it, after my tux fitting im going to swap front to back on the passenger side, if not, tie rod ends get an inspection :). I wanted to put a set of tires on, but all the tires in my family are too big, my brother's spare for his 08' GT/CS should work(they are 18s too)...
 

GDTrumbo

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Did you look for irregularities while the wheels are being spun on the balancer? Did the tech locate the wheel on the balancer using the inside of the wheel (pilot hole) or was it located by using the outside (center cap hole)? They should never use the outer center cap hole unless absolutely necessary. Wheels are designed (and located to the hub) around the inner pilot hole and it's tolerances. Not that hole we plug with a perdy logo. They are not 100% concentric with the pilot hole.


Are the AFS wheels hub-centric like the OEM wheels are? If not, they will always be a headache. Concentric rings are probably available from AFS to maintain a correct fit.

GT
 
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Rice_slayer

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I wasnt there for the balance, they did balance them properly, as SOME vibration went away but it still had the main problem I still have today. Im toast now, Might jack my car up tonight to check, working full time hard labour crap is rough!
 

OnyxCobra

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How hard did you hit the curb? lot of people rash their wheels without bending them, how old are your tires? I'd try your bro's set and see how that works for ya.
 
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Rice_slayer

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I have it jacked right now, I eyeballed the tires, no wobble at all. I checked steering components, all good but the passenger side ball joint(lower control arm) is completed torn up! My sway bar bushing also seem lose too, like aged and cracking everywhere, tires are good though. Would those 2 things cause my vibration? They probably aren't helping matters :p.
 
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Rice_slayer

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That accompanied with a failing harmonic balancer? I have the Harmonic Balancer sitting in the garage, just dont have the time to work on it ATM. I'll replace those and hope that's the problem, but the ball joint grease boot is broken and half is missing towards the front. I read up and I do have the bad wandering too(pulls to the right) with my car too, which is caused by a bad ball joint.
 
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Rice_slayer

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Got sick and tired of the vibration and I have today off so I did some messing around. I changed the curb rashed rim from the front to back and it got rid of almost all of the heavy vibration at 70-90kph(keep in mind I still need to replace to ball joint). So that rim IS bent/warped/out of round or whatever, I hope a shop can fix it, I love this wheels :(. On a side note, would this wheel cause my car to vibrate like crazy(most felt in wheel/clutch pedal) and any speed past 80mph?
 
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Rice_slayer

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AaRoN said:
Was it a Roadforce machine? If not, see if you can find a shop that has one. Those will tell you everything you want to know about each wheel and tire.
I dont think so, Its not bad now, but will get attention eventually, I really want that new engine lol.
 
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Rice_slayer

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Well, I was going to start a new thread but since this is still related, here is what happened. Anyways, my car is basically 100% factory original still and so are the parts lol. After getting new rubber on the wheels, the vibration went down quite a bit, but I still had a immense vibration at 130Kph+(80mph+). Today I finally got my aluminium driveshaft in, put it on and bam, 70% of vibrations are now gone and no more heavy vibration at speeds past 80mph! This being said, I checked my tranny mount, and it's shot and same with the motor mounts. Good thing is, I have both of those parts but they are going on over the winter with my new engine. But the culprit of lots of my vibration issues was an out of balance driveshaft, go figure!

Side note, my brakes are messed again. I must have a seized caliper on the front as it is pulled rank hard and vibrating a ton during braking. The front rotors and pads are only 1 year old and have 80% life left, rears were put on brand new last month :p. Cobra brake upgrade kit is now going to be on the list to fix my messed up brake calipers :).
 

Crone

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You may be able to just sand down your caliper pins and then grease them with a sythectic grease and that may take care of your caliper problem for now.
 
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Rice_slayer

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Good point, I dont exactly have the $500+ for the cobra brakes yet and I want my new engine badly lol. I asked the technicians at the dealership Im working for right now and they said it sounds like a seized brake caliper, A re-man. one costs like $40 but I'd rather just wait and save for the better cobra ones. Should I buy the cobra Master cylinder too?
 

Crone

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That's the way I would go ^ It's a lot cheaper and I'm pretty sure you can keep your master cylinder. Plus If your not in the corners than the cobra upgrade wouldn't fully be worth it.
 

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