buying a 96-98 cobra questions??

97vertstang

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well im not, but one of my friends wants to buy a 96-98 cobra.he really likes this body style and i might have convinced him a lttle :naughty:. he wants to know what will it take for one of these cobras to stay with stock ls1 f bodies.no exhaust since we live in cali and want to stay smog legal.i told him 4.10s are a must and cai,undedrives,tb,and some race mufflers to make it sound mean :thumb:.the rest is how good a driver he is.he has a 01 f150 thats all tricked out so he wants this one as a daily driver.now my question to u guys with experience what does he need for to take on ls1 f bodies, and any particular thing to look at when hes buying one??the good thing he doesnt need a car right away so we are going to test drive a few, he could buy one tomorrow or 6 months from now.i would really like him to get one since it will be the 3rd sn95 mustang of us(me and my frineds).i got my 97 gt,my friends 94 cobra,and hopefully a new 96-98 cobra comes soon :thumb: not to mention my brother is going to be driving soon and looking for a 87-95 gt :banana: :drunk:
 

ForcFed93

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Catted mid-pipe, catback, shifter, 4.30's, intake, and sticky tires. With a decent driver that should be good for low/mid 13's.
 

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like said above those parts will get it in the low 13's. Adding headers to that will make a big power bump, as well as a ported intake I've seen guys get 20rwhp from a properly done intake. You can do a search on ModularDeopt or SVT Performance and get all kind of info on the intakes (Im getting one :naughty:) Other than that, there isint any other boltons you can do thats going to make a noticeable change. NOS would be nice however.
 

CY98Cobra

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The previous owner of my car ran a 12.7 with O/R H, welded in flows, 4.10's with built rear, UD pulleys, c&l maf, timing adjuster, removed front swaybar and a shifter (on sticky tires of course).

It's all in the driving. Quite a few people have ran in the mid 13's stock, so it only takes a few mods and good driving to hang/beat LS1's.
 

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CY98Cobra said:
The previous owner of my car ran a 12.7 with O/R H, welded in flows, 4.10's with built rear, UD pulleys, c&l maf, timing adjuster, removed front swaybar and a shifter (on sticky tires of course).

It's all in the driving. Quite a few people have ran in the mid 13's stock, so it only takes a few mods and good driving to hang/beat LS1's.

+1
 

blackfang

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97vertstang said:
well im not, but one of my friends wants to buy a 96-98 cobra.he really likes this body style and i might have convinced him a lttle :naughty:. he wants to know what will it take for one of these cobras to stay with stock ls1 f bodies.no exhaust since we live in cali and want to stay smog legal.i told him 4.10s are a must and cai,undedrives,tb,and some race mufflers to make it sound mean :thumb:.the rest is how good a driver he is.he has a 01 f150 thats all tricked out so he wants this one as a daily driver.now my question to u guys with experience what does he need for to take on ls1 f bodies, and any particular thing to look at when hes buying one??the good thing he doesnt need a car right away so we are going to test drive a few, he could buy one tomorrow or 6 months from now.i would really like him to get one since it will be the 3rd sn95 mustang of us(me and my frineds).i got my 97 gt,my friends 94 cobra,and hopefully a new 96-98 cobra comes soon :thumb: not to mention my brother is going to be driving soon and looking for a 87-95 gt :banana: :drunk:
Nice choice I might add.

To beat a LS1 without Longtubes will take midpipe and a magnaflow exhaust, JLT, & 4.30 or 4.56 gears.

I would also add SFC's, LCA's(improve the suspension to get traction), and drag radials. I would not even bother with a TB with the no head or intake work as it won't really do anything. I stay away from u/d's on the 4v as they have caused problems with the oil pump gears and balancing issues with our harmonic balancers. If he had the heads ported and a short runner intake done, then he will definately have an edge and a low 12 second car with good driving.

As to what to look for... When driving open the car up. There should be a slight rush around 3300-3400 rpms which is the IMRC's working. Also make sure there aren't any tranny issues with grinding. The T45's are known for weak shift forks and synchros going too.

Hope this helps.
 

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blackfang said:
97vertstang said:
well im not, but one of my friends wants to buy a 96-98 cobra.he really likes this body style and i might have convinced him a lttle :naughty:. he wants to know what will it take for one of these cobras to stay with stock ls1 f bodies.no exhaust since we live in cali and want to stay smog legal.i told him 4.10s are a must and cai,undedrives,tb,and some race mufflers to make it sound mean :thumb:.the rest is how good a driver he is.he has a 01 f150 thats all tricked out so he wants this one as a daily driver.now my question to u guys with experience what does he need for to take on ls1 f bodies, and any particular thing to look at when hes buying one??the good thing he doesnt need a car right away so we are going to test drive a few, he could buy one tomorrow or 6 months from now.i would really like him to get one since it will be the 3rd sn95 mustang of us(me and my frineds).i got my 97 gt,my friends 94 cobra,and hopefully a new 96-98 cobra comes soon :thumb: not to mention my brother is going to be driving soon and looking for a 87-95 gt :banana: :drunk:
Nice choice I might add.

To beat a LS1 without Longtubes will take midpipe and a magnaflow exhaust, JLT, & 4.30 or 4.56 gears.

I would also add SFC's, LCA's(improve the suspension to get traction), and drag radials. I would not even bother with a TB with the no head or intake work as it won't really do anything. I stay away from u/d's on the 4v as they have caused problems with the oil pump gears and balancing issues with our harmonic balancers. If he had the heads ported and a short runner intake done, then he will definately have an edge and a low 12 second car with good driving.

As to what to look for... When driving open the car up. There should be a slight rush around 3300-3400 rpms which is the IMRC's working. Also make sure there aren't any tranny issues with grinding. The T45's are known for weak shift forks and synchros going too.

Hope this helps.

hey blackfang, I was wondering what is faster your cobra or the Z? ???
 

blackfang

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I know in stock form the Z would tear it up. The cobra ran a 13.8@101 and we had a 2000 Z/28 a4 that ran 13.4@104 stock

Right now the cobra is a bit faster, but the 98 Z is stock except the suspension and a catback, but that will soon change. :D
 

blackfang

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Yup. 3.23 geared going to go with 3.73's. Car has Hotchkis LCA's, SFC's, strut bar, Flowmaster catback, Y2K wheels 245/45ZR17 front and 275/40ZR18 rear.

I have a few engine bolt ons coming.
 

94gtstang50

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Ok, to revive this thread, I'm test driving and looking at a 96 snake this weekend, what are some issues I need to look out for that would make it not worth the hassle?
 

94gtstang50

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Come on people, I need your help on this. The car has a few little visual quriks I got to straighten out but mechanically its sound as far as I know. It ran a 14.0 on street tires w/o traction. I am going to do a very in depth exam of it so I know it'sd not going to blow up on me on the way home or anytime soon at that. So what are some known expensive cobra problems?
 

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94GtStAnG5o said:
Come on people, I need your help on this. The car has a few little visual quriks I got to straighten out but mechanically its sound as far as I know. It ran a 14.0 on street tires w/o traction. I am going to do a very in depth exam of it so I know it'sd not going to blow up on me on the way home or anytime soon at that. So what are some known expensive cobra problems?

Expensive cobra problems ???...........................how about a blown motor :rollinglaugh:. Just screwing with ya, I don't know of any normal problems they have. You should do the regular check up things like oil condition, body damage (from a wreck) all fluid levels, smooth shifts in the gear box and so on. Oh and look to see if it has pulleys on it, if it does and they WERE NOT INSTALLED correctly they could cause major problems down the road. I've read over on SVTPerformance that they can cause complete engine failure if not installed to manufacture specs. I cant remember exactly what the problem was in the motor from the pulleys but apparently some people have already had it happen to them, so when mine were put on, everything was done according to the instruction's to a T, and then checked over again for extra assurance.
 

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How much is he asking for it? You can get the bumper for as little as 225 I think, and a fender should be around the same, so you could have that fixed for a grand or so I would imagine. I noticed it has black leather also.....nice :thumb:
 

94gtstang50

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Yup he's asking 5,500, was going to give him 5k cash for it. Interior is great, didn't see any tears in the leather, all black interior, mach sound, new smog pump. Just that cosmetic issue you see and I think 2 tires.
 

blackfang

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94GtStAnG5o said:
lol, ever had any probs with yours?
Previous owner had the engine replaced right before I bought it.

The only issue I have had in 5 years is a wire shortage and that was a simple fix. Other than that, no problems.
 
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97vertstang

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offer him 5 cash!!!!!!!!!!! wish i could get one for that much. as long as theres no more damage than shown i think its a hell of a deal!!!! :thumb:
 

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