All subframes connectors created equal?

Photonfanatic

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I found these:

http://www.cjponyparts.com/full-len...rtible-maximum-motorsports-1983-1993/p/SFC23/



I know they are MM which are probly the best but, some of the others I have seen out there (especially on other types of cars) look a lot... beefier. They look thicker and they're welded on. These don't look like you weld them on, they look like you bolt them on. What do you think? Are these connectors worth it? Or should I pay more and get a different beefier set? Or do they even make a better set for our cars?
 

forcefedhatch

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Mine are bbk bolt ins.. But I welded them in.. They have the seat brackets and everything worked out great that's for sure


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Musturd

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The MM ones are actually really nice and are 100% welded in only bolts are for ur seat braces. They really stiffen up the chassis my blue fox has them and so does my black 4v car. I sent my yellow car to a chassis shop toget the torque box's welded and custom subframes done cost me 400 which I thought was hella cheap.
 
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Photonfanatic

Photonfanatic

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Do yall think its necessary to like jack up the car first before welding on the subframe connectors? Due to chasis droop over time. Saw that on Horsepower TV. The cars get old and bow downwards in the middle. You wouldn't want to weld up your subframe connectors with that going on.
 

framda

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Check out the Stiffler system. I am getting ready to order some MM full lengths and then add the jacking rails and the webbing to them.
 

Musturd

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Subframe connectors should be done on a 4post drive on hoist that way weight is on the wheels two post lifts or jack stands will = sagged out shitty door gaps
 

Steve-Oh

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I would highly recommend doing them on a drive on lift. You can also do them if you support your car with stands on your front control arms and rear axle but the weight needs to be distributed equally on all four wheels hence why it can get dicey doing it this way, it's really no necessary since you can take it to get done for relatively cheap. Now, those MM one's are definitely strong enough, I just put them on a car with a rotted floor pan and it stiffened it up 100% (yes the floor pans soon after were getting replaced). There are other options out there as well. I have Steeda frame connectors, for example, on mine but were pretty much the same as the MM one's I put on my friends car. Only differences were that mine were Zinc coated whereas his were painted, the stiffners on the MM one's are left off my Steeda one's were already welded on.
 

forcefedhatch

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Subframe connectors should be done on a 4post drive on hoist that way weight is on the wheels two post lifts or jack stands will = sagged out shitty door gaps

This!!.. I jacked up my front end and put jack stands under my spring cups in the front end on the control arms.. Then used two more on the rear end tubes.. Banged em into place,, welded em up.. Good to go


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Photonfanatic

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What are the stiffeners? Is that some of the other parts that comes in the MM subframe connector kit? I hope they have instructions for putting the stiffeners on if they do.
 

Musturd

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There these little plates that go where the kinks are in the subframes
 

Dalamar

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Agree mm is best. Anything is better than nothing.
I'd go with the weld in vs bolt in.
 

Steve-Oh

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What are the stiffeners? Is that some of the other parts that comes in the MM subframe connector kit? I hope they have instructions for putting the stiffeners on if they do.


They should be welded on at the end once the connector is up in place. My theory is they left them off to allow the connector to flex for installation since most likely it's not going to fit perfect.
subconn2.jpg
 

Musturd

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For sure I normally bring in 5-10 sets at a time and there always all gone with in the month. Wether getting installed at my shop or picked up. For the price why not there super cheap
 
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Photonfanatic

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Ok a couple more q. Is there anything that should definitely be done before welding up a set of subframe connectors? I plan to lower the car a couple inches with those SVE springs from Late Model Restoration. Any reason I should put the springs on first? What about other upgrades? Is there anything that would interfere?

Also, how much do you guys think that set from MM weighs? I guess it really doesn't matter but I'd still like to know.
 

g36 monkey

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Just grind all the contact points really well, that's a good "modification" ;p
 

Dalamar

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They're relatively light, i've done the same set Steve posted a pic of.
like monkey said, grind the stock subframe surfaces where you're going to be welding to. A wire wheel or flap disk on a grinder works best.
Follow MM's instructions as far as how close the stitches go to the ends.

After mine were painted, I caulked the gaps on front/end so water wouldn't get in there and bleed out rust.
 

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