Bullitt brake swap???

LIL PWNY

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I did the 13 inch rotor and twin piston caliper swap on my '96 GT. The calipers I used are straight off an '01 Bullitt and the rotors are Brembo 13 inch cross drilled rotors, with MM stainless steel braided lines. The rear brakes are stock calipers w/ cross drilled & slotted rotors. After me and a friend (I pumped as he has a bad knee) bleed the brakes and took it for a test drive there was a huge dead spot in the brake pedal, about an inch where I press it down and nothing then it starts to grab, but not super hard. While on the brakes the clutch works perfect (I believe the hydraulic clutch system is tied into the brake system). Is replacing the master cylinder needed for this swap or no?? Is my master cylinder going bad or did we just not get all the air out of the lines??
 

Musturd

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I'd re bleed the system all 4 corners to be safe starting at the rear passenger side. Ur master will work fine with it.you should have noticed a big difference in stopping power so I'd re bleed and if it's still messed up and you have to pump the brakes to get the hard pedal feel then ur booster is on its way out. The 96 mustangs were still mechanical clutches and not hydraulic by the way
 

1997gtRioRed

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id just gravity bleed it, if time isnt an issue. just crack open all 4 bleeders, fill the master, and let it sit for a couple hours, topping off the master every once in a while
 

Mystic SVT

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Sounds like you didn't get all the air out of the lines, re-bleed all 4 brakes starting with the rear pass side like Musturd said.

96-04 mustangs have mechanical clutches not hydraulic and even if it was hydraulic it would be separate from the brakes.
 

RichV

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Mine has similar issues. The MC is different on GT vs Cobra, I don't have enough seat time in the car to sort it out, but I will soon enough.

The track feel is like there is too much assist for the 1st inch or so, then it bites. I never felt like it was not going to stop, but I like a firmer pedal. When I had the GT brakes, there was still a little more assist then I like, but definitely no dead spot. The other thing is I have all my ABS intact, but unplugged. So maybe that is taking some play.

A gravity bleed is good if done right. But it takes more like 24hrs + sometime. Not sure how well it would work on ABS equipped cars.
 

Musturd

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Mine is super firm even with a gt master I just got a new cobra master that I'm going to use though unless I go hydra boost
 

RichV

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^ Maybe hence my issue. Wh only 94/95?
 
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LIL PWNY

LIL PWNY

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Alright cool thanks guys. I'm new to the whole 2v thing (still fairly new to the whole Ford thing, and the fuel injected thing, well and the computer controlled thing for that matter of fact too). LOL

I'll pick up a one man bleeder and re-bleed them. I've never gravity bleed brakes before so I'm not sure I'd feel comfortable trying that.
 

96GT02

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Mine was doing the same thing, try bleeding the brake booster thats what gave me my pedal back.
 

96GT02

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mine is stiff too with the stock MC after i bleed the booster.
 

slowstang00

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I know that this model year mustangs have a hydralic fed brake booster compared to the convential vaccum ones. Havent messed with it much but u might want to check the fluid that works that and lines that go to it. By what your saying it sounds like the brake booster isnt activating when you push the brakes which it should right when you push the brake which gives you power brakes. Without that you basically control the brakes from your foot the more the push the more you get and can be a pain then. If no problems come up with that i would just make sure there is no air in the lines and also if you want to make sure your master cylinder is ok just give the brakes a couple pumps and see how the fluid ends up i know i had a car in the pass that the fluid in the front of the cylinder would end up in the rear compartment when the fluid would return since the insides of it were broke and wasnt dividing the fluid
 

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