What suspension Mod should I do next?

Darhawk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
Messages
1,399
Reaction score
143
Location
Salt Lake City area, Utah
Hey Stang Fans,
I finally got my Subframe connectors on today! WOOT!!! It's so much better, not as floaty feeling. Worth every dime. She is still in the shop this weekend getting a radiator flush and an alignment..much needed.

Anyhoo, so now I have New Springs, shocks, MM camber casters + subframe connectors. I done alot of work in the last few months putting it all together..with help from friends and shops.

So what would be the next best suspension mod that I should get put on?

.... and/or maybe I am good for now and should pass on suspension parts for awhile, should I now focus on gears or saving for something else?

I only drive the Cobra to shows and meet and greets right now, I do not racing it or take it to the track. I just wanted a nice performing street car.

-D
 

OnyxCobra

Post Whore
Joined
Apr 8, 2006
Messages
14,794
Reaction score
237
Location
Rochester, NY
If you haven't done gears then I'd say that should be a priority for sure. As far as suspension goes I think the next thing I did was rear lower control arms. Need to do gears though.
 

Shifty Powers

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2007
Messages
4,864
Reaction score
187
Location
Where the wild goose grows
So shocks/struts,springs,CC plates, and full length MM XL SFCs... If your not racing it.. Only other thing would be a set of 03/04 A-arms for no reason except a better turning radius. Also new sway bars.

Other then that. I agree.. Rebuild your rear end. 4.30s!!! 31 spline axels, aluminum DS, limited slip diff, new diff cover.. lol 1k later and your golden!.. Otherwise just new gears and a good gear oil should sit you pretty!
 

g36 monkey

Post Whore
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Nov 15, 2008
Messages
14,081
Reaction score
596
Location
Orlando, Fl
Or you can be like me, and assemble a barrel of parts in one shot.

gears, lower control arms, and aluminum d/s. you'd feel a huuuge difference.
 

g36 monkey

Post Whore
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Nov 15, 2008
Messages
14,081
Reaction score
596
Location
Orlando, Fl
ha shifty and I think alike, same time post ;p I would also look into sway bars like he said.
 
OP
OP
Darhawk

Darhawk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
Messages
1,399
Reaction score
143
Location
Salt Lake City area, Utah
So shocks/struts,springs,CC plates, and full length MM XL SFCs... If your not racing it.. Only other thing would be a set of 03/04 A-arms for no reason except a better turning radius. Also new sway bars.

Other then that. I agree.. Rebuild your rear end. 4.30s!!! 31 spline axels, aluminum DS, limited slip diff, new diff cover.. lol 1k later and your golden!.. Otherwise just new gears and a good gear oil should sit you pretty!

Do you mean these exactly?
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/s...oduct_info&cPath=514_2_79_215&products_id=398

I don't know why I should/would upgrade rear sway bar, if the Eibach one is only 24mm and the stock one is 25mm. Is there a better choice? Seems like the Eibach set is just pretty red color and not much of an increase in size and strength.

Next, what about adjustable lower control arms for the rear, would that be good to do also.
 

Shifty Powers

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2007
Messages
4,864
Reaction score
187
Location
Where the wild goose grows
Ah right.. your a 5.0.. thats a little diff.. so 4.10s might be good for you..

the eibach swaybars are MUCH thicker up front and the rear is slightly smaller yes.. but its a better set.

Yes those are the control arms im talking about. But you can find a good used set on SVTP for like 200 bucks.. If you want i can find a set. I dont see a need to go to adjustable arms in the rear if your not racing it.. So no need to waste money..

So heres my final list.. LTs, Gears, Aluminum D/S.. Tune? Dunno 5.0s sorry lol..
 

GTR

New Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Messages
32
Reaction score
3
Location
Heath, Texas center of the know universe
There is a convertable brace under the oil pan (factory), a rear shock brace, upper and lower control arms. If I was doing them in order: rear shock brace, vert brace (it's cheep), then control arms. If your just looking for a weekend warrior just get some solid arms. Adjustable adds $$ and if your not racing it you'll never have to adjust them. I was really impressed with the shock brace when I installed it. Rearend seemed much more predictable excelarating out of corners. The vert brace is just another brace, noticable I don't know with everything else.
As far as gears, it's been long believed 5 spd. = 3:73 auto = 4:10 Personally 3:55 is a good all around gear. If the highway is what you cruise alot the 3:55 will be fine.
 

Cpotts13

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
1,594
Reaction score
36
Location
Biloxi, MS
Let me just tell ya, the lcas and Eibach anti roll kit made a HUGE difference for me. If/when you get wide tires in the back you will notice the stock lcas start flexing alot. The j&m lcas i have solved that for me night and day. Also the Eibach sway bars were well worth the money. I have almost zero body roll and the only body roll i do have is from the lack of subframe connectors. With that being said.. gears have been my best purchase so far.

final list:
gears>lcas>eibach anti roll kit.
 

Tony

Legend
Joined
May 23, 2012
Messages
9,396
Reaction score
978
Location
ohio
+1 ont the sway bars. no body roll with steedas and i mean none, lol. like being on train racks!

but you def should go with bigger gears. just going from stock to 3.73's will make ya feel like ya gained 50hp. def makes a huge difference.
 

RichV

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
4,230
Reaction score
251
Location
CO
Swaybars don't stiffen anything. They are used to fine tune oversteer and understeer when you drive at the limit, primary function being the springs, then the swaybars. In the track world, since we're speaking handling here, you run the stiffest springs you can, Fox and SNs can do around 1100 front and 250-300 rear, then you use different diameter front and rear bars to fine tune. And there may be more than 1 setup based on the track you run. Last track weekend I removed my rear bar completely, it worked better than the Cobra bar I had on.

Anyway, fo Darhawk (how's Andrew doing BTW?), I think you'd be best off replacing bushings IMO. Get rid of the tired front control arm, front swaybar, and rear lower control arm bushings. Rear upper, stick with stock rubber pieces. Go with a good stiff bushing for everywhere. That will make more difference than you think. Package aftermarket control arms are also a good choice, someone mentioned J&M (www.hotpart.com) which make some great stuff. Never heard of stock arms flexing because of tire size, but the bushings get WAAYY soft and the ass end tends to dance under heavy braking, but you won't see that on your way to Dairy Queen, just under heavy cornering.

For a 5.0, 3:55 gear or a max of 3:73 is all you want. Even with 3:73 you'll be spinning close to 3,000 RPM at highway speed, something to think about since you drive the car on the street.

Oh and Tony, "If it feels like you're driving on rails ... you're not driving hard enough." Ross Bentley :)
 

Tony

Legend
Joined
May 23, 2012
Messages
9,396
Reaction score
978
Location
ohio
Oh and Tony, "If it feels like you're driving on rails ... you're not driving hard enough." Ross Bentley :)
how hard can ya drive around the city, lol? i def have next to no body roll and anyone that drove my car would prolly agree. exit ramps are fun but that' about as far as i can go w/o going to track/road course
 
OP
OP
Darhawk

Darhawk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
Messages
1,399
Reaction score
143
Location
Salt Lake City area, Utah
Anyway, fo Darhawk (how's Andrew doing BTW?), I think you'd be best off replacing bushings IMO. Get rid of the tired front control arm, front swaybar, and rear lower control arm bushings. Rear upper, stick with stock rubber pieces. Go with a good stiff bushing for everywhere. That will make more difference than you think. Package aftermarket control arms are also a good choice, someone mentioned J&M (www.hotpart.com) which make some great stuff.
Hey Rich,
Thanks for the input.
Andrew is good, I saw him yesterday. I'll tell him you said hello. You know I don't live that far from you!
So what bushing brand is the best to get? I see Prothane brand at CJpony Parts. Rich, I didn't catch what you meant by Package aftermarket control arms, Is Package a brand name?

That Dairy Queen comment was classic..LOL!!!!!!!!! but Sonic is probably more accurate.

Thanks to all you have given me some information regarding all these choices.
So here is the Final list, but not it order.

Gears 3.73
Full Bushing replacement (25mm on stock sway bar)
Eibach swaybar replacements or ( better brand?)
Lower control arms but not adjustable..cause I don't race.
Terminator Front Control A-Arms

What about upper control arms?? Is there a certain style to get? I heard I should stay away from certain styles?
What about a Strut Tower Brace, is that a needed item too? <-- might be the last item to get?
When do panhard bars or torque arms come into the picture? Or it that too extreme?
 

g36 monkey

Post Whore
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Nov 15, 2008
Messages
14,081
Reaction score
596
Location
Orlando, Fl
Torque arm and panhard bar are only really necessary for race cars. You'll then need to upgrade your rear springs to a higher rate, etc. it should all be done in one shot.

Everything I've seen says use stock upper control arms. I'd actually go tubular on the a-arms, but I hate the big bulky stock suspension pieces. for me, it'd be more about having room.
 

RichV

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
4,230
Reaction score
251
Location
CO
By package I meant a kit that already has the LCAs with bushings rather than buying bushings for your arms. You do want to stay with factory upper arms. Keep the squishy factory bushings, they will be the best for articulation. Energy or ProThane are good aftermarket bushings, you can get a kit that has everything, or get them individually. You will need them pressed in (control arms), FYI.

The other thing is good brake pads, get some Carbotechs, XP8 or XP6 compound. Those will make a big difference in the stopping power. Also, ultimately tires are responsible for handling, stopping, and steering. You can have the best suspension setup in the world, but with some old M&S tires, you may as well be drag racing on ice. Many good soft compound tires.
 

OnyxCobra

Post Whore
Joined
Apr 8, 2006
Messages
14,794
Reaction score
237
Location
Rochester, NY
3.73 gears will be plenty, i have 3.55s because of boost and even that from 3.08s was rather noticeable. just fyi i turn around 2400rpm @ 75mph with the stock .68 5th and 26" tires.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
77,414
Messages
1,501,524
Members
14,907
Latest member
CrowdKiller

Members online

Top