What would you do differently?

v6mustang94

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Build list for my mostly stock 5.0.

18" Staggered Saleens (American Muscle package)
Eibach Pro Kit (rear isos only)
Tokico HP Blue Shocks/Struts
Steeda X2 Ball Joints
Steeda Bumpsteer Kit
MM CC Plates

I had the springs (rear isos), ball joints, CC Plates, and shocks/struts on my V6. I was happy with it overall. It looked great and felt solid, but I never really knew if I picked a good setup. The V6 was also my daily driver. The 5.0 is not.

I've never raced, but I drive pretty aggressive on back roads occasionally.

Just looking for any feedback I can get. Also, will 18s with 265 tires rub in the front? The V6 rubbed with 275/17s when I was cranked all the way over.
 

Musturd

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You should be ok and the parts you listed you should be happy with
 

RichV

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It's a good start. Remember tire choice is everything in handling.

I would probably add some rear lower CAs if yours are stock. I also put together a thread in the road race section about basic handling mods, maybe check it out.
 
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v6mustang94

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Forgot to add I also have MM full length SFCs too. Never installed them on the V6.
 
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v6mustang94

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It's a good start. Remember tire choice is everything in handling.

I would probably add some rear lower CAs if yours are stock. I also put together a thread in the road race section about basic handling mods, maybe check it out.

Cool. Will do. I'm building on a bit of a budget for this winter. Mostly shooting to improve looks for now, and picking up whatever perks I can in the process. Sounds like LCAs and torque arm would be good future mods. Maybe I'll shoot for those and brakes next year.
 

OnyxCobra

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I'd do H&R SuperSports instead of the pro kit and keep front isos and forget bout the X2 ball joints. I wasn't too fond of Steeda's customer service so I guess I'd get a MM bumpsteer kit instead as well.
 
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v6mustang94

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Is a panhard bar worth doing without LCAs and a torque arm? I'd like to do it all, but I do have a budget I need to be aware of.
 

LilRoush

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I'd do the lower control arms first. Then look at the PHB/Tq arm set up. With the full length sub frames and controls arms, you'll be a few steps ahead in the suspension / handling area.
 

RichV

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Ya, you can run a PM3L (poor man's 3 link) with a PHB and upper/lower CAs. The downside is the disabling the passenger upper puts a lot of stress on the driver upper. I've read some people keep both upper CAs, but run factory bushings. Some run stiff bushings but only the driver CA. While others just replace the working CA every season. I run both CAs with stock bushings, both are worn, and it seems to work well, but I don't have anything else to compare to.
 

ProKiller

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i would get something lower than a pro-kit if its not a daily driver, like H&R as mentioned.
 

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