Upgrading to steeda/mm control arms question

Nightmare

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mm-mmrlca32_8186.jpg
So now I have a question on these, maybe Rich V can answer this one......I cannot decide if I want the ones above with the adjust spring perch or if I want to get the non adjust ones......If I go with the x2 ball joints and bumpsteer kit (which should drop the spindle and thus lower the car in the front) will the adj ones with the spring perch in their lowest setting give the car a even look for both front and rear (like what I have now) or will it keep the rear at the current height. I currently have the UPR upper and lowers, however I want to up grade them to the stronger and lighter MM/Steeda ones. Also will there be any improvement/loss in the handeling/launching abilities that I have right now with this set up. Finally, will the steeda rack bushings help as well? (I have to replace the rack in spring anyhow)
 

Darhawk

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Don't forget to check daily on MM website for the Deal of the day..I got mine from there and saved a lot.
The website say the RLCAs will lower the car an extra 1inch or you can raise it 2 inches.
 

RichV

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Thanks for the props!

My question is what do you so with the car?

I think I would upgrade the front end like you want, then decide on the rear. Don't worry about weight and strength unless you do some racing that really puts those to the test. Have you been happy with the UPR stuff? I don't think I have known anyone with their CAs in the back. I would definitely upgrade rack bushings, you will feel the road much better in the sloppy steering.
 

MustangChris

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also let Rich know your power-level (currently and near-future) this makes a difference on the bushing options... :) He'll be able to help ya out.
 
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Nightmare

Nightmare

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Ok, to answer some of the questions. The car is "daily driven" in the summer, sees some road courses a few times a year, sees the drag strip about 3-4 times a year, oh yeah, and is ran at speeds of 85+ on a Nascar track once a year...It also sees higher speeds when I go on my road rallies. The cars rwhp is 261 and when it is "done" should be around 420rwhp and will be run on either Nitto Summer Tires or DR's.

As far as the upr ones, they arnt bad, and they have grease fittings on them. Like most poly bushings they creaked at first.....I also have the upr adj uppers, however I have read that they have a tendency to break under severe shock.

Current suspension setup:
Eibach Sportline springs
Tockico Blue shocks and struts
Eibach Front and rear swaybars
UPR Upper and Lower CA
MM Camber Castor Plates
 

RichV

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Perch?? I know these have the mounting flange, what do you mean by perch?

I think you have a pretty good setup. If you want to go the next level, go TA and PHB. Or do the IRS, I personaly prefer the stick axle. IMO the ford IRS design was made to fit in a stick axle mount and was designed around that, so it's not optimal. But is good for an all around car. You could also do the K and front control arms, lighen up the sprung weight. Move the front wheels forward some.

Also, once you make the power you want, you'll need to upgrade brakes. Specialy for open track, you'll start seeing speeds you're not used to and you'll probably start cooking the rotors/calipers. You're good for now, but I have some good sources to get cheap upgrades to Wilwood 4 and 6 pot calipers. I upgraded to 4 pot calipers and what a difference. Best part is pad prices are 1/2 of what I was paying with GT PBR calipers, and a new caliper can be purchased from Jegs for $150 if I shell one.
 
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Nightmare

Nightmare

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Perch?? I know these have the mounting flange, what do you mean by perch?

Lol, yeah that is what I meant. Flange/perch, it is all the same

I think you have a pretty good setup. If you want to go the next level, go TA and PHB. Or do the IRS, I personaly prefer the stick axle. IMO the ford IRS design was made to fit in a stick axle mount and was designed around that, so it's not optimal. But is good for an all around car. You could also do the K and front control arms, lighen up the sprung weight. Move the front wheels forward some.

Also, once you make the power you want, you'll need to upgrade brakes. Specialy for open track, you'll start seeing speeds you're not used to and you'll probably start cooking the rotors/calipers. You're good for now, but I have some good sources to get cheap upgrades to Wilwood 4 and 6 pot calipers. I upgraded to 4 pot calipers and what a difference. Best part is pad prices are 1/2 of what I was paying with GT PBR calipers, and a new caliper can be purchased from Jegs for $150 if I shell one.

Good advice. I forgot to mention that I also have the MM Sub Frame Connectors as well as did the Cobra front and rear brake upgrade. With the K member and the new control arms/a arms, wouldnt I need to go to a coil over set up in the front then? Let me get this right, so far go with the following:

Steeda Rack bushings
Steeda x2 Ball Joints
Steeda Bump Steer Kit

Now some stupid questions........having a blond moment and it has been a long day........
What the heck is a TA?
What panhard bar do you recommend?
what about strut tower/shock tower braces.......and do they make one that works woth a vortech for a 04?
 

Steve-Oh

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It's my 2 cents but looking at the J&M ones compared to the Maximum Motorsports ones (adjustable ones on both), I personally don't like the construction of the J&M's. The MM's use a solid bent tube with a hole machined through for the adjustable perch sleeve and welded whereas it looks like the J&M's are made from two separate tubes welded to the adjustable perch sleeve and welded.


Sent from Space
 

Darhawk

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It's my 2 cents but looking at the J&M ones compared to the Maximum Motorsports ones (adjustable ones on both), I personally don't like the construction of the J&M's. The MM's use a solid bent tube with a hole machined through for the adjustable perch sleeve and welded whereas it looks like the J&M's are made from two separate tubes welded to the adjustable perch sleeve and welded.


Sent from Space

That was what I had thought as well. Same exact thought.
 

RichV

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Good advice. I forgot to mention that I also have the MM Sub Frame Connectors as well as did the Cobra front and rear brake upgrade. With the K member and the new control arms/a arms, wouldnt I need to go to a coil over set up in the front then? Let me get this right, so far go with the following:

Steeda Rack bushings
Steeda x2 Ball Joints
Steeda Bump Steer Kit

Now some stupid questions........having a blond moment and it has been a long day........
What the heck is a TA?
What panhard bar do you recommend?
what about strut tower/shock tower braces.......and do they make one that works woth a vortech for a 04?

Yea, that's a good starting place with the Steeda stuff. Both PHB and TA, I'd personally go with MM. Griggs sells great stuff as well, but they're a little pricey.

Srut braces, IMO not nealy as effective as G-Load braces. On track, I instantly felt the addition of a G-Load. Not so much with the shock tower brace. I do know they can save your car in a front end hit. The strut brace is more bling IMO, but my car is also caged. A non-caged car needs all the help it can get!!
 

RichV

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It's my 2 cents but looking at the J&M ones compared to the Maximum Motorsports ones (adjustable ones on both), I personally don't like the construction of the J&M's. The MM's use a solid bent tube with a hole machined through for the adjustable perch sleeve and welded whereas it looks like the J&M's are made from two separate tubes welded to the adjustable perch sleeve and welded.


Sent from Space

I see your point. Not sure the performance of one vs the other. J&M was actualy founded by some ex MM guys from what I understand. Not sure what or where their designs came from, but again, I see their decals and parts on road race cars. I run their standard LCA in the rear and have been very happy with them.
 
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Nightmare

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"What the heck is a TA?"
TA = Torque Arm

Thank you......it was a LOOOOOONNNNNGGGG day yesterday

It's my 2 cents but looking at the J&M ones compared to the Maximum Motorsports ones (adjustable ones on both), I personally don't like the construction of the J&M's. The MM's use a solid bent tube with a hole machined through for the adjustable perch sleeve and welded whereas it looks like the J&M's are made from two separate tubes welded to the adjustable perch sleeve and welded.


Sent from Space
That is what I was thinking. That is part of the reason why I want to replace the UPR uca and lcas on my car.....I am afraid that as the power goes up, they will fail quicker.

Yea, that's a good starting place with the Steeda stuff. Both PHB and TA, I'd personally go with MM. Griggs sells great stuff as well, but they're a little pricey.

Srut braces, IMO not nealy as effective as G-Load braces. On track, I instantly felt the addition of a G-Load. Not so much with the shock tower brace. I do know they can save your car in a front end hit. The strut brace is more bling IMO, but my car is also caged. A non-caged car needs all the help it can get!!
Cool cool.....Sounds like a great plan for what I am planning on doing!
 

Steve-Oh

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I see your point. Not sure the performance of one vs the other. J&M was actualy founded by some ex MM guys from what I understand. Not sure what or where their designs came from, but again, I see their decals and parts on road race cars. I run their standard LCA in the rear and have been very happy with them.

Same, just basing my opinion off the visual of both. Have no solid evidence to back my statement although it would be fun to test!
 

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