Oh, and see if Matt still has these for sale. I think he listed them here as well, save you a few bux.
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/3437144604.html
Perch?? I know these have the mounting flange, what do you mean by perch?
I think you have a pretty good setup. If you want to go the next level, go TA and PHB. Or do the IRS, I personaly prefer the stick axle. IMO the ford IRS design was made to fit in a stick axle mount and was designed around that, so it's not optimal. But is good for an all around car. You could also do the K and front control arms, lighen up the sprung weight. Move the front wheels forward some.
Also, once you make the power you want, you'll need to upgrade brakes. Specialy for open track, you'll start seeing speeds you're not used to and you'll probably start cooking the rotors/calipers. You're good for now, but I have some good sources to get cheap upgrades to Wilwood 4 and 6 pot calipers. I upgraded to 4 pot calipers and what a difference. Best part is pad prices are 1/2 of what I was paying with GT PBR calipers, and a new caliper can be purchased from Jegs for $150 if I shell one.
It's my 2 cents but looking at the J&M ones compared to the Maximum Motorsports ones (adjustable ones on both), I personally don't like the construction of the J&M's. The MM's use a solid bent tube with a hole machined through for the adjustable perch sleeve and welded whereas it looks like the J&M's are made from two separate tubes welded to the adjustable perch sleeve and welded.
Sent from Space
Good advice. I forgot to mention that I also have the MM Sub Frame Connectors as well as did the Cobra front and rear brake upgrade. With the K member and the new control arms/a arms, wouldnt I need to go to a coil over set up in the front then? Let me get this right, so far go with the following:
Steeda Rack bushings
Steeda x2 Ball Joints
Steeda Bump Steer Kit
Now some stupid questions........having a blond moment and it has been a long day........
What the heck is a TA?
What panhard bar do you recommend?
what about strut tower/shock tower braces.......and do they make one that works woth a vortech for a 04?
It's my 2 cents but looking at the J&M ones compared to the Maximum Motorsports ones (adjustable ones on both), I personally don't like the construction of the J&M's. The MM's use a solid bent tube with a hole machined through for the adjustable perch sleeve and welded whereas it looks like the J&M's are made from two separate tubes welded to the adjustable perch sleeve and welded.
Sent from Space
"What the heck is a TA?"
TA = Torque Arm
That is what I was thinking. That is part of the reason why I want to replace the UPR uca and lcas on my car.....I am afraid that as the power goes up, they will fail quicker.It's my 2 cents but looking at the J&M ones compared to the Maximum Motorsports ones (adjustable ones on both), I personally don't like the construction of the J&M's. The MM's use a solid bent tube with a hole machined through for the adjustable perch sleeve and welded whereas it looks like the J&M's are made from two separate tubes welded to the adjustable perch sleeve and welded.
Sent from Space
Cool cool.....Sounds like a great plan for what I am planning on doing!Yea, that's a good starting place with the Steeda stuff. Both PHB and TA, I'd personally go with MM. Griggs sells great stuff as well, but they're a little pricey.
Srut braces, IMO not nealy as effective as G-Load braces. On track, I instantly felt the addition of a G-Load. Not so much with the shock tower brace. I do know they can save your car in a front end hit. The strut brace is more bling IMO, but my car is also caged. A non-caged car needs all the help it can get!!
I see your point. Not sure the performance of one vs the other. J&M was actualy founded by some ex MM guys from what I understand. Not sure what or where their designs came from, but again, I see their decals and parts on road race cars. I run their standard LCA in the rear and have been very happy with them.