Need suspension tips (Update)

justi88

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I have 0 knowledge in suspension parts and the stang needs a complete refresh in this area. I have only changed shocks during the years but I need to change bushings and the other stuff involved. I have alot of squeaky and metal with metal sounds under the car. Also my steering sounds real bad when i turn it to much and the most dangerous thing is the steering is very loose. I can move the steering wheel a bit to both side with the car not doing anything, in ugly roads the car wants to move everywhere, Ive avoided many accidents this past week.

So guys maybe someone can post a list of all the suspension parts that need to be replaced and how to fix my steering problem.
 

MustangChris

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let us know if you want a "performance" suspension, or a "dd friendly" one...

first thing to hunt down is that metal on metal!!! whats causing that???

next is steering:

#1) prothyne standard-set steering rack bushings (DD friendly) *or* aluminum solid bushings (lets vibration into the steering wheel)
#2) new OEM steering shaft (DD friendly) *or* solid steering shaft (lets vibration into the steering wheel)
#3) if those dont fix it, have the rack re-manufactured (wallet-friendly) *or* buy a cobra unit (99-04) (these cost between 90 and 130 dollars depending on the year cobra you get)

Once your steering is "tight" again, replace the fluid. Drain it from the steering rack's lines, then fill the power steering res. back up with ATF.

other bushings:
front control arms (OEM for DD friendly, prothyne lets vibration into the cabin)
sway bar end links (dont bother with OEM, just get prothyne)
sway bar bushings (dont bother with OEM, just get prothyne)
motor mounts: OEM for DD, prthyne for "weekend warrior" (lets some vibration in), solid for "man's car" (lets LOTS of vibration in)
transmission mount: match to the motor mounts - oem -> oem --- prothyne -> prothyne --- solid -> solid

--if you do control arm bushings, i *highly suggest* having the ball joints replaced while the arms are out.--

rear bushings:
upper control arms: replace OEM bushings
lower control arms: prothyne bushings -- (OEM work fine, but i rarely suggest them unless your car is strickly a daily-driver)
pinion snubber: i suggest replacing this with a maximum motorsports unit.

all around:
I suggest replacing the spring isolators. OEM for DD, prothyne for a more "performance" oriented car.


springs/shocks --- you need to tell us what you're looking for. Dropped car? DD? track car? etc. etc. etc. :)

as you can see from my list - the "soft" oem rubber absorbs more of the vibration, the aftermarket prothyne doesnt. In some cases the vibration-transfer will be minimal and you should bump up to prthyne anyways (rack bushings, sway bar, rear control arm, etc.)
 

MustangChris

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also. i realize i may have spelled prothyne wrong every single time - sometimes spelling it 2 or 3 different ways, always incorrectly -- but the proper spelling of that word will never be know. LOL.
 

whiplash473

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new rack bushings..sway bar links..tie rods..control arm bushings..ball joints

i'd run thru that list and it should make a world of difference..not to say just that will fix everything..but all that is probably something that needs to be done anyways and would give you a great start to getting the front end straightened out

EDIT: or just read MC's post since he's gotta be better than everyone
 
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justi88

justi88

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that all sound real good, now i just got to investigate how those things look in real life. The car is a DD but orientated (dont know if i spelled that right LOL) but I abuse it every other weekend. Right now the coils are stock but I intend to lower it a bit with some H&R sport springs.
 
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justi88

justi88

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These are some pics, I can see cracking in the rubber and you can see something is hitting on the sway bar.

IMAG0933_zpseeeb5ade.jpg

IMAG0934_zps109b2211.jpg

IMAG0935_zpsab94e84d.jpg
 

Cpotts13

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let us know if you want a "performance" suspension, or a "dd friendly" one...

first thing to hunt down is that metal on metal!!! whats causing that???

next is steering:

#1) prothyne standard-set steering rack bushings (DD friendly) *or* aluminum solid bushings (lets vibration into the steering wheel)
#2) new OEM steering shaft (DD friendly) *or* solid steering shaft (lets vibration into the steering wheel)
#3) if those dont fix it, have the rack re-manufactured (wallet-friendly) *or* buy a cobra unit (99-04) (these cost between 90 and 130 dollars depending on the year cobra you get)

Once your steering is "tight" again, replace the fluid. Drain it from the steering rack's lines, then fill the power steering res. back up with ATF.

other bushings:
front control arms (OEM for DD friendly, prothyne lets vibration into the cabin)
sway bar end links (dont bother with OEM, just get prothyne)
sway bar bushings (dont bother with OEM, just get prothyne)
motor mounts: OEM for DD, prthyne for "weekend warrior" (lets some vibration in), solid for "man's car" (lets LOTS of vibration in)
transmission mount: match to the motor mounts - oem -> oem --- prothyne -> prothyne --- solid -> solid

--if you do control arm bushings, i *highly suggest* having the ball joints replaced while the arms are out.--

rear bushings:
upper control arms: replace OEM bushings
lower control arms: prothyne bushings -- (OEM work fine, but i rarely suggest them unless your car is strickly a daily-driver)
pinion snubber: i suggest replacing this with a maximum motorsports unit.

all around:
I suggest replacing the spring isolators. OEM for DD, prothyne for a more "performance" oriented car.


springs/shocks --- you need to tell us what you're looking for. Dropped car? DD? track car? etc. etc. etc. :)

as you can see from my list - the "soft" oem rubber absorbs more of the vibration, the aftermarket prothyne doesnt. In some cases the vibration-transfer will be minimal and you should bump up to prthyne anyways (rack bushings, sway bar, rear control arm, etc.)

I agree with everything he said, but i also have a few recommendations aswell:


-i didnt see anyone mention this but definatley check you inner and out tire rods.. could be worn or shot
-get prothyne motor mounts, dont waste the money on oems, they will likely be the same price and last considerable less time
-dont bother replacing lower control arm bushings, just go ahead a buy new lower control arms, a decent set will run you $170 ish and you will notice an improvement with these.
-like mustangchris said definitely replace your ball joints if you do remove your front control arms to do the bushings, id recommend steedas ball joints because they are made for lowered cars.


I daily drive my car and I use the H&R super sports, which i highly recommend because they are a progressive spring, which means they get stiffer when you start hard cornering, which means they arent to rough driving around and over bumps.

Which ever spring you decide to get check out this website http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=tech_struts_shocks_matching_spring_rates to determine the best set of shocks and struts to match your springs.

and holy crap your undercarriage is dirty!
 

MustangChris

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there shouldnt be anything rubbing on the sway bar.

are you lowered? if you lowered the car without putting proper end links on, maybe it re-positioned the sway bar improperly?
 

RichV

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The oil on all that stuff will kill all the rubber parts. Just seeing the dirt is a sign from some serious oil leaks and it probably deteriorated any rubber pieces that came in contact. Is your new motor leaking as well? You gotta fix that.

Replace all the rubber bushings. Either with OEM replacements or poly. Chris is on track with everything, looks like all need replaced and I'd include engine and tranny mounts in there too.
 
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justi88

justi88

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I have leaking from the steering pump, dont know really well it is but thats the issue of all the oil down there. It is real dirty cause my city is really dusty and dirty roads. Its not clean like cities in the U.S., so i would first have to fix the power steering leak and then go with all the bushings replacing?
 

MustangChris

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if you need help shipping parts to bolivia, let me know.... I'd be willing to help ship parts to you (at your cost, of course)
 
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justi88

justi88

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Let me make a list of all the stuff I would need for the front and rear suspension. Ill post it up so you guys can aproove.

Ive really havent had many issues bringing stuff to bolivia, actually I do it as a side business and bring stuff for people here (Alot of people here dont have idea how to buy online). I usually buy from summit racing, rockauto and ebay. There are some things that cant be shipped overseas or sometimes cost higher than the product.
 

slow90coupe

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If you're on a strict budget, you would be able to make a huge difference with rack bushings, end links, sway bar bushings, and tie rod ends. These things cost almost nothing and will tighten the car up drastically.
 
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justi88

justi88

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I made a list of the most important stuff to change:


  1. Energy suspension set of 4 rack & pinion bushings - 10.95$
  2. Energy suspension Sway bar bushings ford oem style 3/8" - 14.95$
  3. Energy supension Control Arms bushings set (2 sets) - 53.95 $ each
  4. Moog replacement Tie rod end Outer (2 pieces) - 40.39$ each
  5. Moog replacement Tie rod end inner (2 pieces) - 32.95$ each
  6. Moog Ball Joints (2 pieces) - $52.95 each
  7. Moog Sway bar end links (2 pieces) - $9.95 each

Total would be 373$ and shipped to Bolivia 527$!!! :undecided:

These prices were taken from summit racing, I checked on Rockauto and prices are higher and shipping is insane LOL. Any other websites I can find the stuff Im needing, and is this list OK???
 

Slykin

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I approve of all of the things on the list except for one thing. I'd get the MM solid steering rack bushings. It's worth the very minimal increase in NHV.
 

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