B-spring impressions and questions.

carbuff

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Okay, so I bought a set of B-springs for my 98 v6 vert. These are spec'd for v8 coupes to get the advertised drops, right? So I just installed the rear ones today with new kyb shocks (foxbody versions) I got little to no drop. I left the stock isos in there. I had read that it was common to get no drop in the rear with these but I figured that since they were meant for the lighter rear of the coupe that the heavier vert might give it some drop. Maybe they need to settle. Im ok with it. Now my dilemma is what to expect in the front. Im figuring that the v6 is lighter in the front so I might not get the advertised drop in the front. So, no need for fox struts? Anyone out there install these in a v6 vert with the isos in place? Will it drop enough to need the fox struts or will the sn95 versions be ok. I only want to buy the struts once. Also, does anyone make a stock LCA all rebuilt with new bushings and ball joints? Although I could use the added turning radius of the cobra parts, they are just too expensive.
 

ram360

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if they are new give them a chance to settle. I really doubt the difference will be anything noticeable v6 vs v8
 

OnyxCobra

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did you make sure both rear spring pig tails were pointing towards the drivers side? I say try the front springs and if you still want a little more drop you could always yank the isolators.
 

Steven

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I've never been huge on B springs for the rates and the drop aren't enough to justify the money.
 
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carbuff

carbuff

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I guess I should clarify a little. The car has 233k and I believe the springs were original. Its a summer only car now but its more of a daily driver type thing. No autocross for this guy. I figured that the b springs would retain a stock ride and give me a little bit in the handling dept and possibly lower the car a bit. So, thats the rational on why the b springs. And yes I pointed the tails the correct way. The old ones were actually pointed that way already. I guess they dont move at all, even after 233k miles. I guess I will wait and see on the settling. I dont think the b springs will lower the front so much that I need the fox struts or cc plates. I can get a good deal on the sn95 kyb struts so I guess I will go with them.
 
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carbuff

carbuff

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So, I just got done today doing the drivers side spring and strut. It turns out that the old spring was busted. When I took it out there was almost a full coil stuck in the perch. Also there was no way this new spring was going in there without a compressor. I rented an inside the spring, compressor from advance auto (free) which posed a couple of dilemmas. The compressed spring could not be installed with the tail sticking out the top because there is no hole in the top spring perch. Switched the other way, and the compressor cannot be disassembled enough to come out the bottom hole. Luckily I was able to install the spring and then lower it back enough to barely get it to unscrew apart to drop the pieces out the bottom hole. Other than that it all went pretty easy and I have not noticed any drop compared to the other side. I will tackle the other side this week. It should go a bit faster. In the driveway with hand tools can be a bit slow at times.
 

CC'S95GT

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My son has B springs on his 98gt. overall drop on his was about 1". No need for CC plates and he's still using the stock shocks and struts. the ride is still stock like.
 

1997GT4.6

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I bought B springs at first and hated them. The drop was less than 1" in the rear and about 1" in the front. Well that's what is advertised so can't really complain. Other than that I did not like them at all. For some VERY odd reason every shock/strut I put in would give out within 3 months. So I sold those and got H&R ss with bilsteins and have never looked back.
 
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carbuff

carbuff

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Interesting about the struts wearing out so fast. I have not driven my car since october so I dont even remember what it drives like. LOL. Its got to be nicer than the escort I have for the winter. Im actually glad that there was no drastic drop in the front. I did a proper measurement in the road today and it has dropped .75 inches compared to the other side. Its got to ride nicer than the stock broken spring with really old struts, possibly original? The strut nut was marked with a yellow pen like the factory does to make sure it does not move, so they could be original.
 
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carbuff

carbuff

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FRPP "F" springs are rated for the V6's and the FRPP"G" are rated for the verts. I have a build thread here somewher of my installation of "B" springs on my V6. I also used KYB (Fox Body) struts/shocks.
LINK:http://sn95forums.com/showthread.php?45764-Project-quot-DROP-quot-Complete!&highlight=robb15033

Wow, that came out great. I see you used the tape method for isolators. I re-used the stock units. Perhaps a reason why I wont get the drop that you did. And the x2 balljoints too. I also think that without the isolators I might have been able to muscle the front springs in without a compressor. One question though. Did you paint your springs and struts to match? My springs are black as well as my kyb shocks and struts.
 

robb15033

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Wow, that came out great. I see you used the tape method for isolators. I re-used the stock units. Perhaps a reason why I wont get the drop that you did. And the x2 balljoints too. I also think that without the isolators I might have been able to muscle the front springs in without a compressor. One question though. Did you paint your springs and struts to match? My springs are black as well as my kyb shocks and struts.

I used electrical pecker head insulation wrap around the ends of the springs. I also cut one coil off the rear and 1/2 coil off of the fronts (I think, that's the right order). Yes the X2's give a lower stance up front and they have held up tough as nails. I painted everything to match using the "New Ford Blue" paint & clear coats. For my Cobra, I will again use Fox Body struts. The toughest part of the entire install & the part I could not do myself was getting it aligned perfectly with the bumpsteer kit, I recommend it be taken to a Mustang shop or speed shop who work with them on a regular basis. Good luck. All the very knowlegible guys here at sn95forums helped me through it all and can answer any questions you may have.
 
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carbuff

carbuff

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Well, an update is in order. I got everything installed and finally got the car put on the road today. Only 20 minutes at the DMV. I got lucky. And, it cost me nothing because I had a credit from when I turned in the plates last October. Win, win. LOL. So, the car rides great. Its a caddy compared to my escort. The roads here suck, all broken up from the winter and its not that bad. But Im going to need an alignment. I can see the wheels out at the bottom (negative camber) a bit just by eye. So a few questions. Do the stock strut mount plates move to adjust camber and such? I assume that they do. Mine still have the pop rivets in them in the little holes. Is that a factory thing? Also, my struts do not have a slotted mounting hole on the bottom. Does that mean that I can not use camber shims If I need a little more adjustment? Also, how long should I wait before getting the alignment. What is a good amount of time for the springs to "settle".
 

CC'S95GT

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you should be able to get aligned right away. the alighment shop should be able to get it in spec with the stock rivits still installed.
 
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carbuff

carbuff

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you should be able to get aligned right away. the alighment shop should be able to get it in spec with the stock rivits still installed.

Thanks for the response. Thats what Im hoping for. I cant see spending the money for cc plates on this thing. What were those little rivets for? To hold it all together during assembly? So I dont need to let the springs settle. Thats cool. Of course a set of eibach pro-kits pop up on CL for $90, like new in the box, just missing the rear snubber thing. Oh, well, Im happy enough with how these came out. I took it over the biggest speed bumps we have around here and passed with flying colors. Im sure most of you guys would say that its not low enough if it doesnt scrape on speed bumps. LOL. I, will try and post a pic later on of how it looks.
 
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carbuff

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Heres a pic.

mustang1a.jpg
 

Gold4.6

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When putting your rear shocks in did you just tighten the rear end control arms, not torque, before you put the car back down on the ground. I know when I put my built rearend in I torqued everything before putting load on the car and my car sat higher then normal. Then when I swapped me flows for bassanis I put load on th rearend and it sat lower.
 
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carbuff

carbuff

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I did not touch the LCAs at all. I just unbolted the shocks and the brake line brackets and let the rear drop as far as it could with the body supported. The rear dropped low enough for the springs to practically fall right out. It was easy. I think it came out just like I wanted. No more 4x4 but not slammed either. Better than stock replacements since the 200k+ originals needed replacement and one front spring was broken. What do you guys think about adding a rear sway bar? The 98 v6s dont have one. I should be able to get a used one off a gt and just bolt it right on, right?
 

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