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  1. #101


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    I think the gasket is not happy with the Edelbrock intake because of the amount cut off of the heads and block.


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  2. #102


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    The Eddy mounting flanges are smaller than the stock PI intake on the inner lip toward the center of the motor.
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  3. #103


    96blak54's Avatar
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    Not leaving enough room for error?

  4. #104


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    I am going back to the PI manifold, it fits much better. The extra 6 HP is not worth the PITA.
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  5. #105


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    Got it started for 1 minuet then water on the floor????? the heater core let go.. Replaced the heater core and the car runs much better with the PI manifold, fish tails now even with new sticky tires. Car will not warm up with the big radiator and 180 degree thermostat in 32 degree weather. Beat the crap out of it for 3 hours and the low coolant light came on so it is still leaking, just slower. Tomorrow I will do a compression check and post numbers. the fan switch for the heat/ac inside the car is not working and has no power going to the connector,
    I do not know where the missed connection is? I am getting a drive line vibration above 80 mph?
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  6. #106


    Burninriverdiver's Avatar
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    I'm glad you got to rip on it a bit, sounds like the bugs are going to need chasing but you're making progress!

    96 GT

  7. #107


    96blak54's Avatar
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    Definitely running the problrm down. Ill agree a night and day difference with the pi intake.

    Good to see progress! Youll be carving corners reliable soon at this pace. Keep the updates coming

  8. #108


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    I FINALLY FOUND IT. Number 8 intake port, pin hole found it with a 20 power ridgid endoscope. Now how do I fit it? Spot is on the corner radius of the short side floor, too acute of an angle to us the laser, too deep to use a straight TIG electrode. I have a small right angle TIG head but it takes electrodes that are too small to heat up the massive heat sink that a car head is. With all the machine work I have a big investment in the heads, with 180cc ports and big intake valves with 43mm seats these are over kill for my little street motor but Boy do they rev...instantly!

    I do have a set of NPI heads that I molested some, but would need alot of work to get back to 14:1 compression.
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  9. #109


    evilcw311's Avatar
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    Just put some chewing gum in there!!!! ;-)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    95 Satin black on wicked black leather, black chrome fr500's, blacked out boosted 351 being dropped in as you read this......

  10. #110


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    If I could get it from the back side of the crack..
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  11. #111


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    How about I make a right angle electrode. Take a 3/32 tungsten electrode and cut 1/2" off and use the laser to weld them back with the tip at a 90 degree angle?
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  12. #112


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    I have not found any right angle TIG electrodes on the web. It will take me 5 min. to crank one out
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  13. #113


    lwarrior1016's Avatar
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    A right angle TIG electrode? That sounds very interesting and it sounds like it might just work. There has to be a way to get it, someone out there has the secret to doing port welding.


    If you make that electrode, could you take some pictures for me? Could you show us where the hole is too?
    Rio Red 98 GT
    Always Under Construction


  14. #114


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    I'll make up the electrode today, and work on the gas cup for it. Might take longer to get the motor out and brake it down to show the hole. Some days the car and engine acts like it is put together with Velcro and some days with super glue..
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  15. #115


    lwarrior1016's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLD H2S View Post
    I'll make up the electrode today, and work on the gas cup for it. Might take longer to get the motor out and brake it down to show the hole. Some days the car and engine acts like it is put together with Velcro and some days with super glue..
    Are you going to weld it back up without taking the engine down?
    Rio Red 98 GT
    Always Under Construction


  16. #116


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    No, The heads must come off to do the repair, and pull the valves out to reach the hole, might be easier from the valve side. The head studs will not let the heads off with out pulling the motor, so...

    The TIG electrode did not work, well, it worked a little. The joint is much too brittle like cast iron repair, and the tungsten has a much higher melting point than anything else which is why we use it. Cranked the laser up to 400 volts and blew the rod in half so I had enough power to do the job but I see the right way it is going to be a heated jig that holds the angle and run it up to 3000 degrees then start the laser and at the same time rotate the jig all inside an Argon bath. Damn, and I left my resistance welding machine to do the preheat in China 10 years ago. Probably have to make the jig out of Carbon..
    It did work and I will post pics tonight but it was too delicate and would not stand up to normal welding rigors so I played with it for a half hour and stopped.
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  17. #117


    96blak54's Avatar
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    So it be easier to do different heads?

  18. #118


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    NPI Doctor, help.
    Got My Eye On You

  19. #119


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    Problem is I have 1000.00 in the PI heads, did the guides, stainless valves, Comp Cams springs and retainers, ported to 180cc intake ports, 43mm seat ports, 25cc chambers..but they are over kill on a 300hp engine. I should repair them and send them to Will or you.
    Got My Eye On You

  20. #120


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    Here is a shot of the TIG electrode, very cool but a pain to make which is why there are none on the internet for sale.
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