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  1. #1


    96blak54's Avatar
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    NPI shortblock PI head 4.6l re-build

    Though id share this rebuild im currently on.

    Story goes, Buddy has a '99 GT that spit a spartplug out, destroying the head and piston. Did a stock new rebuild with a reman head and he got 500miles till the fuel pressure sensor crapped out. Replaced sensor, drove another 100miles and it crapped out again only this time it allowed fuel through. Ultimately into the intake manifold filling up the cylinders all the way into the oil pan. Wouldnt have been the case if we had discovered it sooner, but all the ignition on/offs was priming the engine full of fuel.

    Engine bearings DO NOT like gas! Tried fresh oil but no luck. Rod bearing spun!

    Here i am slappin parts together for a temporary engine so that we can build the one coming out and do it right.
    Last edited by 96blak54; 01-12-2018 at 05:03 AM.



  2. #2


    96blak54's Avatar
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    Pic shows .070" deep valve reliefs. Probably not needed, but hey...never know. Dang pesky pi heads and no ptv clearance. He has mentioned aftermarket cams, getting s tune, so its a "just in case" solution.

    How i did the valve reliefs?
    I took a junk head, clearanced out around all the intake valve seats and made a long stemmed valve looking tool that has a bigger diameter than a valve. Tool has a flat face surface with sticky velcro. I then take velcro backed sand paper, cut it same diameter, stuck it to tool face. Placed tool into head. Mounted head on block. Raised piston into place and used a hand power drill to rotate tool. Doesnt take long at all to achieve a .070" deep relief. Sand paper does 4 cylinders well. Unpeel paper and replace with new. Relief the other side. This keeps my cost low and provides a great relief. I wanted a tool that could make the cuts with out having a sharp tool radius. Possibility of starting a crack.

  3. #3


    96blak54's Avatar
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    After cleaning debri from reliefing pistons, it was time to clean the deck surface.

    I use rasor blades and scotch brite. First took a sharp blade over the surface scraping gasket material, rust, sludge...whatever. Next the scotch brite made good work cleaning the surface with a little bit more detail. 3rd i take another rasorblade and scratch the deck surface up real good. The scratches are microscopic and add a surface roughness more fitting for the headgaskets to be used. If stock gaskets were used, i would seek machining the proper surface roughness.

  4. #4


    lwarrior1016's Avatar
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    Looking good, brother! Im excited to see what this combo ends up doing. I hope he gets a dyno tune for this thing.
    “MR SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN”


    Rio Red 98 GT

    Always Under Construction


  5. #5



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    I'd love to see that tool setup! Looks good. If I were doing a pi build I'd consider reliefs a must. Keep us all updated, I'd love to see the Dyno!

  6. #6


    OLD H2S's Avatar
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    I am not going to say a thing. I am George Castanza and you all should do the opposite of any thing I do.
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  7. #7



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    Any idea why two FPR's went out so quickly, especially the second one(new ?).

  8. #8


    96blak54's Avatar
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    The 1st one was a factory Ford unit, notorious for failure. The 2nd one was from O'Reillys and apparently the diaphragm popped allowing fuel to flow through the vacuum line, straight into the intake. No way of visually knowing!

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  10. #9



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    I love low buck shade tree mechanic solutions!
    "I'm not a complete idiot - some pieces are still missing "

    98 GT ragtop 5-speed in Chrome Yellow - mine
    98 GT ragtop auto in Pink - wife's

 

 

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