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  1. #61


    evilcw311's Avatar
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    You have the right idea. Tape it up, wire wheel it, wipe it down good then paint.


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    95 Satin black on wicked black leather, black chrome fr500's, blacked out boosted 351 being dropped in as you read this......

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  3. #62



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    So I started swapping over the oil galley plugs from my npi heads to my pi heads and found that the pi heads have two threaded holes that my npi heads don't. Thoughts?

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  4. #63


    96blak54's Avatar
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    Long as they are dead holes, meaning not going into any gallery, you should be fine.

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  6. #64



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    Probably newer heads from a crown Vic? I think they added a cyl head temp sensor as a backup in later years

  7. sk8erord said thanks for this post.
  8. #65



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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver95bird View Post
    Probably newer heads from a crown Vic? I think they added a cyl head temp sensor as a backup in later years
    So just plug them and I'll be fine?

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  9. #66


    lwarrior1016's Avatar
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    You shouldnt need to plug them. They should be blind holes, nothing in them
    “MR SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN”


    Rio Red 98 GT

    Always Under Construction


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  11. #67



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    Valley and valve covers painted. Plugs moved over. Time to start assembly... Well after I coat the headers. Any advice on installing the long tubes at the same time?

    I'll probably do some more engine bay cleaning before I put everything back together. Cleaned the timing cover and other components that came off already.

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  12. #68


    lwarrior1016's Avatar
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    Advice for the long tubes is, good luck. Ive only done one set of long tubes with a factory k member and I bolted them to the engine before putting it in the car. Maybe you can set the header down there before you put the heads in? I dont know how accessible the bolts will be though. What kind of headers did you go with?

    Now Im wondering if you can bolt the header to the head and set them down there at the same time?
    “MR SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN”


    Rio Red 98 GT

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  13. #69


    lwarrior1016's Avatar
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    Looks to be all sorts of room right there. Maybe bolting them to the heads first will work.....
    “MR SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN”


    Rio Red 98 GT

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  14. #70



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    Quote Originally Posted by lwarrior1016 View Post
    Advice for the long tubes is, good luck. Ive only done one set of long tubes with a factory k member and I bolted them to the engine before putting it in the car. Maybe you can set the header down there before you put the heads in? I dont know how accessible the bolts will be though. What kind of headers did you go with?

    Now Im wondering if you can bolt the header to the head and set them down there at the same time?
    Quote Originally Posted by lwarrior1016 View Post
    Looks to be all sorts of room right there. Maybe bolting them to the heads first will work.....
    That's pretty much what I was planning to try - test fit everything first, but wanted to see if anyone had done it. I'm pretty sure I have to disconnect the steering shaft for it, and possibly remove the starter, but I'm not 100% on that last one. Trying to figure out if the stock steering shaft will even work. I've read that I may need to get the MM steering shaft to have enough room. I might do it anyways, since I've read that the stock steering shaft sucks, and gets worse with long tubes due to the heat.

    Forgot to add - I bought Pacesetter headers. BBK, et al were a bit out of budget, and I'd read decent things about the Pacesetters. Just need to strip that black paint they use and coat them. A tubular k member is in the future, so at worst, I guess I can reinstall the factory exhaust manifolds and wait on the k-member, but I'd rather not.
    Last edited by sk8erord; 03-13-2018 at 01:31 PM.

  15. #71


    lwarrior1016's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sk8erord View Post
    That's pretty much what I was planning to try - test fit everything first, but wanted to see if anyone had done it. I'm pretty sure I have to disconnect the steering shaft for it, and possibly remove the starter, but I'm not 100% on that last one. Trying to figure out if the stock steering shaft will even work. I've read that I may need to get the MM steering shaft to have enough room. I might do it anyways, since I've read that the stock steering shaft sucks, and gets worse with long tubes due to the heat.

    Forgot to add - I bought Pacesetter headers. BBK, et al were a bit out of budget, and I'd read decent things about the Pacesetters. Just need to strip that black paint they use and coat them. A tubular k member is in the future, so at worst, I guess I can reinstall the factory exhaust manifolds and wait on the k-member, but I'd rather not.
    Why not give it a shot? Ive not done it this way but I really dont see why you cant. You will definitely need to remove the steering shaft and I would say yes to pulling the starter. You wont know if the steering shaft hits until you get it all installed.
    “MR SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN”


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  16. #72



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    Quote Originally Posted by lwarrior1016 View Post
    Why not give it a shot? Ive not done it this way but I really dont see why you cant. You will definitely need to remove the steering shaft and I would say yes to pulling the starter. You wont know if the steering shaft hits until you get it all installed.
    That's the plan, but figured I'd check to make sure I wasn't trying to reinvent the wheel. Thanks!

  17. #73



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    FWIW, I spoke with a guy that removed the head in his Cobra with the long tube header attached. He put it back the same way.

  18. sk8erord said thanks for this post.
  19. #74



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    Quote Originally Posted by 96blak54 View Post
    Long as they are dead holes, meaning not going into any gallery, you should be fine.
    So I just read your thread (http://www.sn95forums.com/showthread...ight=cam+specs) on the cams, and it was way above my head, but given all the different "OEM" options out there, am I still better off going with PI cams in these heads, or would one of the others you measured give a better powerband?

  20. #75


    96blak54's Avatar
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    By Pi cams, you mean actual legit mustang pi cams? Cause exploders, trucks, and vics came pi heads but not all the same cams like everyone claims they are the same. The mustang cams are the best performers. In all actuality the npi cams are the best from a measurement aspect. A running cam differs greatly from a measured cam.

    Seek out legit mustang pi cams

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  22. #76



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    Quote Originally Posted by 01yellercobra View Post
    FWIW, I spoke with a guy that removed the head in his Cobra with the long tube header attached. He put it back the same way.
    Apparently, in my car, it isn't going to happen. Just can't get the headers to fit in there. However, upon closer inspection, it looks like the motor mounts are shot, so I wonder if that's caused the motor to settle, so I have less clearance. Either way, I need new motor mounts. Any reason to NOT get solid mounts for a track only car? I'm thinking also, when I jack the motor up to replace the mounts, I can slip the headers in at the same time.

    I did disconnect the steering shaft and the starter, but it wasn't enough. /sigh

  23. #77


    96blak54's Avatar
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    Put a jack under the engine! But heck yea on the solid mounts!

  24. #78



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    Quote Originally Posted by 96blak54 View Post
    Put a jack under the engine! But heck yea on the solid mounts!
    Yup, that's the plan now, lol. Project car motto: "There's always something else"

  25. #79



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    And is it just me, or does no one make a transmission mount for my car?

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  26. #80


    96laseredcobra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sk8erord View Post
    And is it just me, or does no one make a transmission mount for my car?

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    oem or aftermarket? cause my prothane polyurethane trans mount is the reason for me figuring out my rear control arm bushings are out lol.

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