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  1. #1



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    2001 GT update and questions

    I don't post much, but figure I would update first then ask questions...

    2001 GT Auto
    Mods: 4.56 full spool, 3500 stall converter, Bama tune, BBK CAI, mild weight reduction, MT Drag Radials

    Best pass is
    60 - 1.699
    330 - 5.318
    660 - 8.380@80.12
    990 - 11.026
    1320 - 13.282@99.88

    I have had a best 60' of 1.669, but bad air kept it slower overall.

    I am trying to figure out a way to get into the 12s without cutting up the car or dumping a bunch of money into it.

    I want to know if something is wrong with the car or something...I keep getting told that my short numbers indicate I should be mid-low 12s and be closer to 105-108mph, I keep telling them that I have it set up right for launching and that the 4.6l 2v doesn't breathe well enough to make those numbers without a power adder.

    I would love some insight/help!


    2001 Silver GT Auto(01/02/2014)
    Bama tune, 4.56 rear, 3500 stall converter - 13.282@99.88mph

  2. #2


    96blak54's Avatar
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    Air/oil seperator on pcv?

  3. #3



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    Quote Originally Posted by 96blak54 View Post
    Air/oil seperator on pcv?
    bone stock other than what I listed, pretty sure a separator won't help in the ET deparment
    2001 Silver GT Auto(01/02/2014)
    Bama tune, 4.56 rear, 3500 stall converter - 13.282@99.88mph

  4. #4


    98snakehorse's Avatar
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    Hey thats pretty good, I could only get in the 8.6's in the 660ft back when I was n/a. 60fter in the awful 2.0+ range. That auto has to be helping you

  5. #5



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    Quote Originally Posted by 98snakehorse View Post
    Hey thats pretty good, I could only get in the 8.6's in the 660ft back when I was n/a. 60fter in the awful 2.0+ range. That auto has to be helping you
    The converter dropped me .3 in all increments
    2001 Silver GT Auto(01/02/2014)
    Bama tune, 4.56 rear, 3500 stall converter - 13.282@99.88mph

  6. #6



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    Just so everyone is on the same page

    http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/#/topics/631569
    07 Gt Tungsten Grey
    Roush (Airaid) Cai, GT500 Tb with BlowByRacing Adaptor Plate, UPR O/r X Pipe, M80's, Pypes Muffler Delete Axle Back, Sr Performance Adjustable Motor Mounts and Steeda Tri Ax Short Throw Shifter

    02 Gt Mineral Grey
    Steeda Sport Springs, 3.73s, Pro5.0 Short Shifter, Pypes O/r X Pipe, full 2.5 inch exhaust with M80's, 75mm Tb and C&L Plenum

    87 Mercury Grand Marquis
    Currently being put back together...

  7. #7



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    Quote Originally Posted by 07GtS197 View Post
    Just so everyone is on the same page

    http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/#/topics/631569
    I think you meant to put http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...mile-help.html

    I am not hiding the fact I am trying to get info from as many sources as possible
    2001 Silver GT Auto(01/02/2014)
    Bama tune, 4.56 rear, 3500 stall converter - 13.282@99.88mph

  8. #8



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    Quote Originally Posted by AJCrader View Post
    I think you meant to put http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...mile-help.html

    I am not hiding the fact I am trying to get info from as many sources as possible
    They both go to your thread on modded.

    I didnt say you were, like I said so everyone is on the same page and you dont get duplicate info.
    07 Gt Tungsten Grey
    Roush (Airaid) Cai, GT500 Tb with BlowByRacing Adaptor Plate, UPR O/r X Pipe, M80's, Pypes Muffler Delete Axle Back, Sr Performance Adjustable Motor Mounts and Steeda Tri Ax Short Throw Shifter

    02 Gt Mineral Grey
    Steeda Sport Springs, 3.73s, Pro5.0 Short Shifter, Pypes O/r X Pipe, full 2.5 inch exhaust with M80's, 75mm Tb and C&L Plenum

    87 Mercury Grand Marquis
    Currently being put back together...

  9. #9


    96blak54's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJCrader View Post
    bone stock other than what I listed, pretty sure a separator won't help in the ET deparment
    Oh really...?

    Interesting!

  10. #10



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    Quote Originally Posted by 96blak54 View Post
    Oh really...?

    Interesting!
    Please explain...if I am missing something I would love to know!

    I just haven't seen or heard of an oil separator provide any power benefit.
    2001 Silver GT Auto(01/02/2014)
    Bama tune, 4.56 rear, 3500 stall converter - 13.282@99.88mph

  11. #11


    96blak54's Avatar
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    Any car that regularly see's high rpm need a catch can in the positive crankcase ventilation line better known as pcv.

    Then you have those who delete the pcv and stuff a breather on the valve cover....but doesnt really solve a problem. Only compounds more problems.

    If the engine has never been apart, has high milage, and retains the factory pcv system....its a pretty good bet oil has plagued the intake tract starting with the pcv valve all the way to the to the combustion chamber. Im willing to throwdown a few dollars and say your stock intake manifold has a small puddle of oil at its bottom inside.

    Folks instantly think oil within the pcv line is blowby. Blowby refes to pressures blowing by the piston rings into the crankcase. The pcv line having vacuum from the engines intake manifold draws the vacuum on the crankcase eventually drawing whatever from the case. This is only partial to the modulars situation.

    Homogenized oil from being atomize by camshafts rotating 3000rpms gets suspended in mid-air and then drawn into the pcv tract, ultimately into the intake manifold. This is evident by black oil tracting all over the intake ports and carbon build up in the chamber, piston tops, and back of intake valve. If you engine has any milage whatsoever with out a catch can, oil has plagued the combustion chamber. Any oil in the mix DESTROYS combustion volatility. Volatility depicts hp and since vacuums are the highest at max rpm.......

    Since im familiar with turning dragracing into a science, utilizing ever aspect possible to gain that .01 ET is crucial and adpting a cheap $20 oil air seperator from tractor supply can net a real gain.

    Long story short, keep the oil from entering the intake.

    What more ideas?

  12. #12



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    With 4.56s, I'd say 1. Long tube headers and 2. Cams

  13. #13


    96blak54's Avatar
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    Grab a crownvic upper intake elbow and a 5.4l throttle body(adapt the old throttle lever to the new body). Cheap upgrade yet effective! Should work with your tune too.

  14. #14


    96blak54's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver95bird View Post
    With 4.56s, I'd say 1. Long tube headers and 2. Cams
    Those would most definitely do it! A little pricey tho. This guy is trying to break 12's on the cheap! We both have very effective ideas how to get him there too!

  15. #15



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    Quote Originally Posted by 96blak54 View Post
    Any car that regularly see's high rpm need a catch can in the positive crankcase ventilation line better known as pcv.

    Then you have those who delete the pcv and stuff a breather on the valve cover....but doesnt really solve a problem. Only compounds more problems.

    If the engine has never been apart, has high milage, and retains the factory pcv system....its a pretty good bet oil has plagued the intake tract starting with the pcv valve all the way to the to the combustion chamber. Im willing to throwdown a few dollars and say your stock intake manifold has a small puddle of oil at its bottom inside.

    Folks instantly think oil within the pcv line is blowby. Blowby refes to pressures blowing by the piston rings into the crankcase. The pcv line having vacuum from the engines intake manifold draws the vacuum on the crankcase eventually drawing whatever from the case. This is only partial to the modulars situation.

    Homogenized oil from being atomize by camshafts rotating 3000rpms gets suspended in mid-air and then drawn into the pcv tract, ultimately into the intake manifold. This is evident by black oil tracting all over the intake ports and carbon build up in the chamber, piston tops, and back of intake valve. If you engine has any milage whatsoever with out a catch can, oil has plagued the combustion chamber. Any oil in the mix DESTROYS combustion volatility. Volatility depicts hp and since vacuums are the highest at max rpm.......

    Since im familiar with turning dragracing into a science, utilizing ever aspect possible to gain that .01 ET is crucial and adpting a cheap $20 oil air seperator from tractor supply can net a real gain.

    Long story short, keep the oil from entering the intake.

    What more ideas?
    Makes sense, never thought about it that way!

    More ideas are always welcomed!
    2001 Silver GT Auto(01/02/2014)
    Bama tune, 4.56 rear, 3500 stall converter - 13.282@99.88mph

  16. #16



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    Quote Originally Posted by 96blak54 View Post
    Grab a crownvic upper intake elbow and a 5.4l throttle body(adapt the old throttle lever to the new body). Cheap upgrade yet effective! Should work with your tune too.
    Hmm...interesting...I'll see what I can find!
    2001 Silver GT Auto(01/02/2014)
    Bama tune, 4.56 rear, 3500 stall converter - 13.282@99.88mph

  17. #17



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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver95bird View Post
    With 4.56s, I'd say 1. Long tube headers and 2. Cams
    Cams are out for now, not the direction I want to go right now, however, been looking for long tubes on the cheap for a while, but nothing in my area, or the shipping makes it more than I want to spend.
    2001 Silver GT Auto(01/02/2014)
    Bama tune, 4.56 rear, 3500 stall converter - 13.282@99.88mph

 

 

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