Introduction to Powdercoating - What You Need To Get Started

Paul

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Quite a few folks were interested when I posted that I got a powdercoating kit for Christmas, so I thought I'd post up a basic intro as to what you might need if you wanted to do it yourself. I'm no expert since I've not powdercoated a single thing yet, but I read through the manual and I'll post some of the stuff they recommended you'd need to get started. This will give you an idea of what kind of investment you'd be making and the scalability of your tools.

To start, here's a bunch of stuff from the kit and some other stuff that I bought to go with it:

Powdercoating%20Stuff.jpg


My family bought a kit off of eBay to get me started - it costs $154.95 + 18.99 shipping. (Total $173.94)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Deluxe-Powder-C...ryZ92150QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

THIS POWDER GUN KIT COMES WITH THE FOLLOWING:
1 - ROLL OF HANGING WIRE
1 - 1/2" HIGH TEMPERATURE MASKING TAPE
1 - 1" HIGH TEMPERATURE MASKING TAPE
1 - 30 HIGH TEMPERATURE ASSORTED PLUG SET FOR THREADED HOLES
1 - 30 HIGH TEMPERATURE ASSORTED CAPS SET FOR THREADED BOLTS
1 - 8 oz IRON PHOSPHATE METAL PRETREATMENT
25 - S-HOOKS FOR HANGING TO HELP PREVENT HANGING MARKS
2 - REPLACEMENT CUPS
1 - MOISTURE SEPARATOR
1 - PICK ANY FOUR 1/2 LB CONTAINERS OR TWO 1 POUND CONTAINERS OR ONE 2 POUND CONTAINERS OF YOUR CHOICE OF POWDER.

The other stuff you see in the picture is:
Infrared Thermometer - $30 from Harbor Freight
Goggles - $5 from Harbor Freight
Respirator - $25 from Harbor Freight
Dust Masks - $9 for six from Harbor Freight
Long Reach Pliers (for getting stuff out of the oven) - $10 for the pair from Harbor Freight
Flour Sifter - (to un-pack the powder before you spray it) $6 from the Grocery Store

Total for this stuff was $85. Not too bad.

Then of course you're going to need an oven. I picked up a good used one from a Mustang buddy of mine for $75 and it works great. You need to have a dedicated oven, so you can't use the one you cook in.
Oven.jpg


One thing lots of folks don't add in to the equation is the cost to wire the oven up. If you already have an extra 220v outlet laying around, this is no big deal. But if you're like most folks, you'll need to run a new breaker off of the circuit box and buy all the wiring, conduit, bends, fittings, breaker, and receptacles. I did all the work with a friend of mine who know electrical work but just the parts added up to more than $250. That was a bargain since I already had wiring running to the back of the house since there used to be a spa there. It would have cost $600+ without that - and more if I had to pay an electrician to do it.

Oven%20Wiring.jpg


So for wiring, we'll estimate $200-$1000+ depending on your application.

I used to have a smaller (60 gallon) single-stage compressor from Sears. It sucked. The damn thing wouldn't even come close to keeping up with the air volume demands of a blast cabinet. (which we'll get into later) Then I bought this one:

Compressor.jpg


It is a two-stage 80 gallon unit from Harbor Freight. It flows 26 cfm @ 90 psi with 175 psi max. It has a Baldor electric motor and a good pump. As for as most compressors you'll find in someone's house - this is a monster. However, having one this size is NOT NECESSARY for powdercoating or very light blast cabinet use. It was $1349.99 from Harbor Freight and again, about $250 worth of electrical stuff to wire it up. If you're not doing much bead blasting, you can certainly get by with a smaller unit. Also, this is not some super high-quality Ingersoll Rand unit that costs thousands more.

Then you will need some way to regulate the air and get the moisture out of it. If you want quality powdercoating results (or so I've read) you need dry air coming out of the gun to ensure there is no clumping or spatter. The trouble with having a 175 psi compressor is that you can't use cheap crappy regulators, so I got this one from MSC. I have it regulated down to 125 psi most of the time, or lower if I'm running air tools a lot. This is manufactured by Wilkerson and I think it cost around $100 or so when I got it. Then of course you have hose reels and fittings and such which can be another $100 or so.

Filter%20Regulator.jpg


I also ordered two more modular coalescing filters from Drillspot.com today that I'll install next week to help ensure I have bone dry air coming into the powder gun. They're shown in the link below.

http://www.drillspot.com/products/144360/Wilkerson_M12-03-BL00_Compressor_Air_Line_Filter

So all told I probably have somewhere in the neighborhood of $2000 in my compressor setup, but that is not necessary for powdercoating. I have it because blast cabinets require a TON of air and I use mine relatively frequently because I hate dirty parts.

Lastly, if you're not going to farm out your blasting to someone, you'll need a blast cabinet. I bought one from Harbor Freight for $200, but wasn't satisfied with the performance of the gun/trigger in it. I upgraded to a Blast n' Peen professional gun and pedal which (I think) was something like $150-200 at the time. I like it much better and it is much less fatiguing to have a pedal instead of a trigger. Here's a crappy picture of the pedal. (it was dark out)

Blast%20Pedal.jpg


The cabinet looks like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93608

I'd like to eventually get a better cabinet, but they're pretty expensive. Don't forget you'll also need some media like glass bead, aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, plastic beads, or walnut shells depending on what you're blasting. I usually use glass and you can get 50 pounds of it for about $35.

So all told, I've got about $3000 tied up into stuff I'm going to use for powdercoating, but of course some of it I already had and can use for other stuff. (like the blast cabinet and compressor) This point of this post is just to give you an idea of what kind of stuff you might need to get started so you can make a budget based on your needs and the level of scalability you need for your projects. I'll post more once I start coating some stuff! :D

Paul.
 

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wow man that's a sick setup, I could see you having a nice side business with that equipment
 

realitygt

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that is a sick setup. i wish i had that so bad. that would be amazing. Does your air compressor take a 220v outlet too?
 

19mustang95

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your setup looks pro compared to mine. I really wish i could afford a blast cabinet, but they are sooo expensive. And prep is the number one thing in powdercoating. :*(
 
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Paul

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Well, I got a couple things coated over the weekend. The oil pan is done in matte black, and the bellhousing is in grey metallic. I really like how the matte black comes out, and the grey metallic is a good sedate OEM-looking color. I ordered some new colors over the weekend. I have silver metallic, but I don't want to do my stuff in silver. Hopefully by next week I should have black chrome, ultra high gloss clear, gunmetal gray, signal blue, and hi-temp black.

Here's my oil pan before coating. When I got this from my friend (for free) it was covered in about an inch of dirt, grime, grease, and general nastyness. Plus, the OEM coating is a BITCH to get off. Thankfully, my buddy has a wheelabrator machine that decimates coatings. I want one soooo bad, but I don't think I can afford $7,000 for one. :(

Before...
Oil%20Pan.JPG

Oil%20Pan%20Before.JPG


Then here's a couple pics after coating. Stamped steel comes out really nice because it's so smooth.
Oil%20Pan%20Coated.JPG

Oil%20Pan%20Coated%202.JPG

Oil%20Pan%20Coated%203.JPG


I still had some time and daylight left, so the bellhousing was next.

Before...
Bellhousing%20Before.JPG

Bellhousing%20Before%202.JPG


After...
Bellhousing%20Coated.JPG

Bellhousing%20Coated%202.JPG


I did a transmission pan for a friend last weekend, but I didn't get pictures of the final product. :( However, it came out basically just like the oil pan. You can see what a difference it makes over the OEM coating.

Before...
Tranny%20Pan%20Before.JPG


Stripped...
Tranny%20Pan%20Stripped.JPG


Anyway, more to come. I'm going to coat my upper and lower intake, valve covers, accessory brackets, and potentially my pulleys as well. Oh, and my radiator retainer. Any anything else metal that I can detach from the car. :dancing6: I need more money dammit!!! :x

Paul.
 
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Paul

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Oh, and as I mentioned earlier in this thread. I also added two more coalescing filters to my regulator to help keep water out of the lines. While this doesn't work quite as well as a full-blown dryer unit, I think it will work fine for what I need it for - plus it's much cheaper. These two filters were only ~$130. :)

Air%20Filters%20&%20Regulator.jpg


I also moved my oven from outside to inside my garage. I discovered quickly that trying to powdercoat outside where there is no still air is difficult. Not to mention all the headache with particulates in the air. For now I'm just pumping up my compressor, then unplugging it and plugging the oven in. The compressor holds enough volume to powdercoat a bunch of stuff without having to pump back up again.

Paul.
 

Mr. OAM

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That's a really nice set-up you've got Paul. You've got more money and room to commit to it that I do apparently.

You might also what to point out that you HAVE to use an electric oven as the fumes from the curing process are flammable. :thumb:


I got into it a lot cheaper. A lot of that has to do with my project car needing the money more, and the rest is not having room.

I got my powder coater off of Craigslist.org for $35. It had never been used. It was purchased new by a guy that got it to do some of his motorcycle parts but never did. The bike was still in pieces when I went to pick up the powder coater. He had it in the box for 3 years. It was untouched. It is pretty much like your's, same gun. Here's what it looks like, this is not mine though...

kit.jpg


The original receipt was $155.

I got a Farberware convection oven off of Craigslist.org for $20. It was $450 when new in 1996. It is big enough for me to bake the billet ignition coil covers I make for the 4.6L 32V engines but that is about as long a part I can do. Again, I don't have much room. This thing sits on top of my roll-around battery charger when not in use.

My compressor is a Crafstman 33 gallon horizontal unit. No, not from Craigslist.org, but a garage sale. It was in like new condition. The guy that had it only used it to change snow tires (with an impact) and to fill his tires. It was some rich snob that certainly was not about to do too much labor. It had the manual in a baggy hanging from the handle still. It looked like he just brought it home. They were moving out of state is why it was for sale. I paid $125 for it gladly. It was $340 when new.

I've got a water seperator on the compressor that I got years ago for airbrushing. Before I got the 33 gallon compressor I used a 15 gallon one. Try cutting a coil off a coil spring with a die grinder and 15 gallon compressor! You can cut for about 8 - 10 seconds before having to wait again!! LOL!

So if you want to get less involved, though limited, you can get into it cheaper, but you will long for a bigger oven pretty quickly. Paul's household electric oven is certainly the best way to go, if you've got the room for it.

pow3.jpg
 
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Paul

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Great post Mr. OAM. Those plug wire cover thingies look cool. What color are they coated?

Thanks Aaron, hopefully I get my shipment of new powder soon so I can coat some other stuff. I'll post some more pics once I've got some stuff. Plus, I need to update my 306 engine build thread with some new pics of my progress.

Paul.
 

Mr. OAM

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Thanks Paul. I'm calling it gunmetal gray because that is how it looks, but the manufacturer calls it something else. It is a two stage color, base color and high gloss clear. The color looks cool without the clear if you like a matt finish, but for the gunmetal look you really need to put the clear on. Of course they look even better in person, but you know that with the things you've done yourself.

I wished I had room for an oven like you've got, and a compressor like your's too. Well, I've always been able to make do with what I've got and my compressor will be good enough for what I do, but a bigger oven would be nice.


Steve
 
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Paul

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Where'd you buy that color? Can you give me the precise color name/manufacturer? I'm doing a clean and sedate theme on my new motor and I like how that color looks.

Trust me, space in my garage is at a major premium. I've gone to great lengths and expense to try to maximize what room I have. It's only a 2.5 car garage (if that) and I have two cars in there full time, so it can get pretty tight. I've got a bunch of industrial shelving, a huge workbench (3 meters wide, 1 deep), my compressor, an oven, bins, huge swamp cooler, water heater, and tons of crap. However, I've managed to make it look reasonably clean and organized. I hate messy work areas.

Someday I'm going to buy a 1 acre property so I can put a big building in the backyard for my shop. Someday...

Paul.
 

Dalamar

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Like Rob's! you seen his "shop" niiiice.



BTW, welcome back :)
 
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Paul

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Muahahaha. I just got my shipment of new powders in the mail. :) But they forgot to send me the extra powder cups to put them in. :( I called them and they said they would get them right out.

Either way, I'm hoping to get some more stuff done this weekend.

I also got a set of fuel rails that I got off the Corral. They look a little rough, but they won't once I'm done with them. :D My new motor is going to look sick. :boink:

New%20Powders.jpg


Paul.
 

TxCobrA98

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time to show my dad this.. i cant wait!

everything looks awesome Paul, thanks for all the info. i am definitely interested now!
 
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Paul

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So yesterday I spent a good part of the day prepping some stuff that I planned to coat today. I'm trying to get the motor for my '89 notch together, but it's taking some time since I only work on it on weekends and I have a bunch of stuff to powdercoat. Today if I have time, I'm going to do the timing cover and lower intake manifold. I still have a ton of work to do to the upper before I can coat it.

Like I've mentioned before, the quality of the coating seems to be all in the prepwork. I'm used to doing this kind of stuff because I spent dozens of hours sanding and polishing stuff on my '94 GT's motor before it got chromed. If you take off all the casting flash on the aluminum, the coatings end up looking flatter and nicer.

So I started by hacking off the little mounting boss on the side of the timing cover. This had already had a preliminary bead blasting.
Timing%20Cover%20Bulkhead%20Cut.jpg


Then I took off the lettering and smoothed the surface a little bit.
Timing%20Cover%20No%20Lettering.jpg


Here's it compared to an untouched one.
Timing%20Cover%20Comparison%201.jpg


This shows the side of the cover after I sanded for a while.
Timing%20Cover%20New%20Side.jpg


This is what they normally look like on the side.
Timing%20Cover%20Old%20Side.jpg


Here's after one final trip to the blast cabinet.
Timing%20Cover%20Glass%20Bead.jpg


And finally, a comparison between my stock one and the cleaned up one.
Timing%20Cover%20Final%20Comparison.jpg


I spent about 30 minutes total carefully masking the parts of the cover I don't want powder on. You can also see in this picture the little aluminum thing I coated a few minutes earlier to make sure I liked the color. It's gunmetal gray.

Timing%20Cover%20Masked%20Front.jpg

Timing%20Cover%20Masked%20Back.jpg


The cover is in the oven pre-heating right now. I'll coat it and post up some more pictures of the finished product later.

Paul.
 

Petek

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The qaulity of it looks great. have you tested it yet at all though? beat the shit out of a test peice with a hammer and see how it holds up.
 
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Paul

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No way I'm going to hit one of my finished pieces with a hammer. LOL I'm sure it stuck fine. I prepped the hell out of it before coating and followed all the appropriate curing schedules and temperatures.

Paul.
 

Petek

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Im sure its fine, im just being a smart ass.
 

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