“TightWad build” saving pennies, building ponies

Tightwad

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I’ll start by saying I’m not new to building cars but this time around I’m more focusing on paint, body and fabrication because that’s where I lack knowledge the most. This is my third mustang iv owned. Last two I built into one, a T-boned 95 with an 347 stroker and a 96 shell.

So far this is my crazy list of what I’m trying to do here.
-right now all I’m doing is rust repair and rust prevention. TightWads belly is rough
- I’m going to try and build sheet metal side skirts with side exit exhaust (like the roush) but welded on with no panel lines.
-no more dinky side scoop, I’m going to build a sheet metal one, weld it on so it’s apart of the body.
-miiight play with a door handle shave and relocation we will see.
-sand, sand, sand. Then paint will either be Azure blue, grabber blue or Riptide blue. Still haven’t decided.
-motor will either be a LQ4 6.0 OR if I play my cards right a 5.4.

I’m posting mainly for myself just so I have a collection of what I’m doing but hey if what I’m trying to accomplish helps anyone else that would be sweet too.

Photo dump time of my Jalopy!
IMG_7147.pngIMG_7150.png

Still new to posting pictures so let’s see if this works
 
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Tightwad

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Always too much to do and not enough time.. I ground down the rust some more using a new air grinder, worked great for the tight places. Gave all the joints a good dose of rust converter. Ill be back under there once I pull the diff and work on the patch panels

It’s pitted forsure but I’m making sure to get under the old paint to bare metal. Or doing the best I can. Relying pretty hard on that rust converter! Haha

Also the wife needed a new ride, so I did what I always do, I bought her a project truck for me to work on! It’s a 2010 f150 platinum with a beautiful little hole in the block. But it comes with a suprise…
BOOM!!

Supercharger! So I’ll put in a stock 5.4 and keep the supercharger kit for the mustang! Happy days
 
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Tightwad

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Well it’s not much but the rust converting primer finally finished drying so I put on a coat of paint. I honestly wish there was more I could do for the rust but without tearing it down to the shell this is it. I’m confident it’s buying the car a good few more years.

Now I need more primer and paint. I’ll start again tomorrow
 

96blak54

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Wow, great project! You for sure have your work cut out for you, but the bones of the car still look solid. All that hard work elbow grease you applying will pay off down the road.
A 3v 5.4l sounds fun! I swapped in a 2v 5.4l in my 96gt. First and foremost.....the 5.4l is big! Be prepared to modify the mustang hood to accommodate the big beast. The 5.4l torque output is phenomenal and youll love it.
 
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Tightwad

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Wow, great project! You for sure have your work cut out for you, but the bones of the car still look solid. All that hard work elbow grease you applying will pay off down the road.
A 3v 5.4l sounds fun! I swapped in a 2v 5.4l in my 96gt. First and foremost.....the 5.4l is big! Be prepared to modify the mustang hood to accommodate the big beast. The 5.4l torque output is phenomenal and youll love it.
Oh I’m excited, my old man in his retirement just bought a 18 Camaro 2ss which is fast as hell. So it sparked the competitiveness in me, got beat him haha so far it’s been a lot of work but I’m loving having a project again.

What transmission did you run? I’m looking at around 550-600hp when the dust settles, hoping to beef up a tr-3650 or if I’m lucky find a tr6060.
 
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Tightwad

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Between work, appointments and daughters softball iv found time to get some work done. Finished off underneath the car, that will be as far as I go until I do the engine swap and diff swap and primed the fuel tank… but only where it was rusted, this primers expensive!

I used a wire wheel, a chisel (might have been a screwdriver) and a hammer to expose all the rust I could then Sprayed it. Oh and…

https://flic.kr/p/2r8xuRg

My “build-a-fender” came in! 20g sheet metal. I wanted the 18g but they were wedged so hard into the rack at the store that I cut my finder open trying to get one, so screw it, 20g it is.
 
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Tightwad

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So my brain did that thing where it had either a really good idea or an ok idea, hear me out. I named this project TightWad for a reason, I plan on putting in extra hours to save as much $$ as I can.

I love the factory GT hood, which mine is.. minus the scoop. (Which are cheap) but I need extra room for the 5.4.. so what if I were to keep my hood, add the scoop, cut my hood and build my own cowl?
That kind of hood cut and lifted 2-3” where I marked my hood..
Look close I used a sharpie haha
So cut out the inside, then cut inside back 1/4-1/2 to allow for the upright piece to be on an angle allowing it to look more factory. Weld it up and whaaallaaa cowl scoopy hood!

Imma try it, worst case I wreck it and buy a cowl \m/(>.<)\m/
 

96blak54

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Good question.

Do your best to get a measurement from the engine block alternator bridge. This is what the alternator would normally be bolted to. Place the end of the tape measure on top of that casting bridge and try your darndest to get a measure of the intake height. Looking back at your truck engine s/c photo, the s/c is tall towards the engine front and probably be the area of problem due to the mustang hood slope.
 

96blak54

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The hood cut out you see here is a 5.4l 2v with 4.6l Edelbrock manifold widened with a proproducts plenum and throttle body. I had my fingers crossed when building the intake, that it all would sit low enough to clear under the hood. Well as you can see, it did not. The plenum is the tallest point and for the front of the engine, the hood slopes very close, but clears. Your s/c manifold most definitely sits taller and its tall for the length of the engine, but do some measuring anyway and we will compare differences.
 

KJ-00-GT

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I like your hood idea, but you wont be doing any welding, the hoods and trunk lid are fiberglass on new edge cars.
 
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Tightwad

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Sounds like the hoods are SMC which uses a polyester resin, so if that’s the case I should be able to glass in the cowl part of it using a rigid poly resin… orrr I could use epoxy to allow more movement.. hmmm.
God knows iv done waaay more fiberglassing in my life then welding haha im going to have to think on this, kinda seems like a fun project to tackle honestly.
 
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Tightwad

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So not much happening, yard work, kids sports, renovations have been kicking my a$$. But I got the rust treated on the gas tank treated, back in and running again. But of course it’s straight pipes now because I’m 100% shock and awe haha
Sitting at home for now
I’m most likely going to start on the rust on the rear quarter first then start playing with the hood. Looking at it I’m probably going to add some supports underneath to prevent flex/cracking

On a side note, thinking pretty strongly on selling the blower and LS swapping it. For what I can sell it for I can have a 6.0/4l80 with a cam and Holley terminator and make very close to what a blown 5.4 can make… but the difference is the 5.4 is maxxxed at that power level and the 6.0 is just starting. End goal would be 600-650whp with either twin gt35 turbos or a single gt45. TightWad style there amazon specials. Anyways the 2010 f150 goes in the garage next for an engine swap, so this projects on pause.
194,000km/120,000miles for $2000 that’s a decent price where I’m at!
 
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Tightwad

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It’s been a while! Life just gets crazy haha well for Father’s Day I found some time to tinker. Now… remember I have never in my life successfully welded sheet metal, new welder, correct wire and some practice and I finally got it down. So I fixed my tail fin,
Used cardboard and the opposite side as a reference.
https://flic.kr/p/2rb3eEz

Pretty dang happy about how this turned out not going to lie! Now I just need to finish spot welding, clean it up and a nice coat of paint. Also… millermatic welders are the BOMB.
 

Terrorist 5.0

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It’s been a while! Life just gets crazy haha well for Father’s Day I found some time to tinker. Now… remember I have never in my life successfully welded sheet metal, new welder, correct wire and some practice and I finally got it down. So I fixed my tail fin,
Used cardboard and the opposite side as a reference.
https://flic.kr/p/2rb3eEz

Pretty dang happy about how this turned out not going to lie! Now I just need to finish spot welding, clean it up and a nice coat of paint. Also… millermatic welders are the BOMB.
This rust was into the trunk area I believe right? I have a small hole there and it actually slings a little bit of dirt into the trunk. It’s where those black boxes used to be that always fill up with dirt. Good to see though, I might try that repair for myself.
 

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