03 GT Convertible Power Windows

Bronco2Fan

New Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
32
Location
Texas
So my passenger side front window and driver side rear window don't work. The passenger front doesn't work with any switch and the rears don't have their own switch, just the main switch by the driver. I read the related threads and figured it may be the main switch. Ordered and installed , still don't function. Other than fuses and relays is there any other things I can check before I tear into the panels and check the motors?
 

Bronco2Fan

New Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
32
Location
Texas
Well I tried to look for fuses and relays, no luck. Stupid owners manual diagram doesn't look anything like my fuse box or PDC under the hood. Were there different variations of it or did Ford get lazy and just use one for the manual?
 

ttocs

Post Whore
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
28,004
Reaction score
3,751
Location
Evansville Indiana
not sure how I didn't see this till now, sorry. The window system uses what is called a 5-wire reversing polarity system also called a 5-wire. The advantage to it is that the switches do all the work, there are no relays(less parts) but the bad point is that they are a complete pain in the ass to troubleshoot because they operate as a master/slave switch system if you know what that is. If you have a bad connection that takes the slave switch out, it will also take out the master switch. Since you have replaced the switch already I would next go check in the kick panels on both sides. I know the lock wire colors but not the windows, we need to find the harnesses that plug in there and you can probably just unplug them and then plug them back in and I bet it works.
 

GTR

New Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Messages
28
Reaction score
3
Location
Heath, Texas center of the know universe
Can you hear the window motors running? There are 3 plastic rollers behind the shaft. They are prone to deterioration and literally crumble. If the motors are running the bearings are shot. I found aluminum ones on ebay years ago, don’t know if they are still available.
 

Bronco2Fan

New Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
32
Location
Texas
Thanks ttocs, I knew I would have to tear into I just didn't want to. Electrical gremlins suck.

GTR, no there's no sound what so ever. That's why I hoped it was the switch. Means they aren't getting power somewhere is my guess.
 

ttocs

Post Whore
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
28,004
Reaction score
3,751
Location
Evansville Indiana
with no sound your best bet is to either get into the kicks like I suggested, or take the door panel off and confirm there is no power getting to the motor.
 

Buffalo5Spd

New Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2021
Messages
14
Reaction score
3
Hi Bronco, since I just had the same problems with my 95 GT I’ll throw my $.02 in here. I’ve replaced 3 of the 4 window motors.
First off, I knew from the previous owner that the drivers front had the bad plastic bearings mentioned above and was an easy diagnosis.
Next was the passenger rear and I suspected that I may have damaged the switch when I replaced the driver front motor. Nope, bad motor. It didn’t make a sound when I engaged the switch but I did notice that when I was clicking on the switch the interior lights dimmed so I changed the motor and problem solved.
Only a few days after replacing the second motor, motor number 3 (passenger front) quit!
I know it’s an older car but I’ve got less than 13k on the odometer and the right rear had paint marker from a recycling yard on it lol. I’d bet a dollar to a dime the motor is bad. None of them took me more than 35 minutes to replace after a couple of YouTube videos. I bought the motors from Amazon and they work great so far. Good luck with the windows.
 

ttocs

Post Whore
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
28,004
Reaction score
3,751
Location
Evansville Indiana
Hi Bronco, since I just had the same problems with my 95 GT I’ll throw my $.02 in here. I’ve replaced 3 of the 4 window motors.
First off, I knew from the previous owner that the drivers front had the bad plastic bearings mentioned above and was an easy diagnosis.
Next was the passenger rear and I suspected that I may have damaged the switch when I replaced the driver front motor. Nope, bad motor. It didn’t make a sound when I engaged the switch but I did notice that when I was clicking on the switch the interior lights dimmed so I changed the motor and problem solved.
Only a few days after replacing the second motor, motor number 3 (passenger front) quit!
I know it’s an older car but I’ve got less than 13k on the odometer and the right rear had paint marker from a recycling yard on it lol. I’d bet a dollar to a dime the motor is bad. None of them took me more than 35 minutes to replace after a couple of YouTube videos. I bought the motors from Amazon and they work great so far. Good luck with the windows.
Did you notice that any of the windows were slower after replacing the motor/regulator? I replaced mine in my hard top and they have been very slow to go up since.
 

Bronco2Fan

New Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
32
Location
Texas
So let me run this pass you all. There's power to all the switches, about 11.8. Took the passenger door panel off and hooked up my power probe directly to the motor. Continuity is good, but when I put power to the motor, nothing. No sound or movement, so is the motor shot? And will that motor being bad make the other window not work ? Or play it safe and tear that panel off and check the motor too? I know I'd have to tear it apart to replace the motor anyway. I'm just curious if one bad motor affects another.
 

Buffalo5Spd

New Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2021
Messages
14
Reaction score
3
Did you notice that any of the windows were slower after replacing the motor/regulator? I replaced mine in my hard top and they have been very slow to go up since.
No problem at all, the windows worked like new.
 

Buffalo5Spd

New Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2021
Messages
14
Reaction score
3
So let me run this pass you all. There's power to all the switches, about 11.8. Took the passenger door panel off and hooked up my power probe directly to the motor. Continuity is good, but when I put power to the motor, nothing. No sound or movement, so is the motor shot? And will that motor being bad make the other window not work ? Or play it safe and tear that panel off and check the motor too? I know I'd have to tear it apart to replace the motor anyway. I'm just curious if one bad motor affects another.
I had continuity with the passenger front window motor but not the rear. For the $50 that the motor costs I thought what the heck.
My brother has 2 96’ Cobras and he let me know that he keeps one of each motor in the garage because they fail every few years on him.
I’m sure it’s been mentioned here before but I figured I’d mention that rear motors on the convertible are the same as the front ones but different left to right matters.
 

ttocs

Post Whore
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
28,004
Reaction score
3,751
Location
Evansville Indiana
what are you meaning when you say you have continuity and how are you testing for it? If you have confirmed that power is at the motor in both directions(it will have +/- swapped on the wires) then yes, you have a bad motor. Now if you only confirmed for example that you have power on the up motion and the window is up all the way you might not be able to hear that it is trying to move if it is at its limit. Again this is a master/slave switch situation where if one portion of the system goes out(the slave switch) it will take the master out with it and neither work, if the master quits working though the slave can keep working.

AGain I would recommend checking the connections in the kick panels where it connects to the main harness that goes over the top of the dash. A bad connection at either of those harnesses will cause problems and if the dash/heater core has ever been out they have been messed with.
 

OpalFrostGT

New Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2021
Messages
73
Reaction score
35
Location
Whitney,TX
not sure how I didn't see this till now, sorry. The window system uses what is called a 5-wire reversing polarity system also called a 5-wire. The advantage to it is that the switches do all the work, there are no relays(less parts) but the bad point is that they are a complete pain in the ass to troubleshoot because they operate as a master/slave switch system if you know what that is. If you have a bad connection that takes the slave switch out, it will also take out the master switch. Since you have replaced the switch already I would next go check in the kick panels on both sides. I know the lock wire colors but not the windows, we need to find the harnesses that plug in there and you can probably just unplug them and then plug them back in and I bet it works.
Ttocs...your reply is very informative and I will keep it in mind. We just purchased a 96 GT convertible. The pass front window switch is not working. The driver's panel will raise and lower the window. Small issue, but each step forward is rewarding, isn't it? Looking forward to learning from you guys! Again, great post!
 

Buffalo5Spd

New Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2021
Messages
14
Reaction score
3
The rear motor was an open circuit with no power passing through when tested. I had power to the motor but it was dead on the other side as if the wire broke on the inside. I actually thought it was a bad switch (Hindsight says that was definitely wrong) until my brother suggested I start with the motor since it was exposed already anyway. Turns out he was right.
The front had power across both terminals when the switch was closed. I suspect that if I were to whack it while pressing the switch it may have begun to operate again. Similar to hitting a starter motor. Instead of waiting for it to fail again I just replaced it.
It’s still on my bench in the barn. I was going to salvage the rollers in it. I’m going to have to power it up and give it the business to see if it comes back to life. At least one of the YouTube videos I saw on the matter suggested this quick fix in a pinch.
 
Last edited:

Bronco2Fan

New Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
32
Location
Texas
Well finally got around to swapping the bad motor out. It was locked up pretty good. There was no movement what so ever in the motor or regulator. Contrary to all the youtube videos, it can be difficult. I had to unbolt the motor from the regulator just to get the track to move enough to loosen it. Window works great, now I have to tackle the left rear quarter window motor lol.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
75,024
Messages
1,454,617
Members
13,638
Latest member
HybridLogan

Members online

Top