03 gt Mach amps bypass

07GtS197

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I’m eventually going to reinstall an aftermarket head unit in my 03 but I had some questions. It had a nice Sony radio in it when I bought the car but the sound quality sucked so I threw a stock radio back in thinking that would fix the issue. Nope, there’s next to no bass and the door speakers don’t work for some reason. I haven’t opened up the doors yet to see if the speakers aren’t hooked up, hopefully soon. Anyway, I’m looking at getting new speakers and tweeters and want to bypass the amps but I’m a little confused on how to do it. Is there a bypass harness?
 

ttocs

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I would check the fuses to be sure they are not popped but if it played on the sony(bad or good) then you know the speakers are connected. They might have already bypassed the amps, they had to if they replaced the speakers if you know they have been replaced.
 
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07GtS197

07GtS197

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Fuses we’re good. I checked all the connections on the back of the radio and noticed one was disconnected. I connected it and all the speakers work now and it sounds ok. It has this issue where all the speakers work ok at low volume but once you turn it up at all and it’s all treble. I’ve read that is normal but it’s worse than the stock system I had in my gray 02. Either the head unit is bad or I need new speakers, which are all stock.
 

PNW Mike

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Do you have the Mach 460 system or one of the other options? I spent a ton of time learning about the Mach 460 system in my '97 to try and upgrade it and eventually came to the conclusion that I needed to stay with factory everything or swap to a full aftermarket setup - in my case that meant a new head unit, amp, speakers, and a powered sub in the trunk, along with the wiring to hook them up. I was pretty shocked to find out that none of the Mach stuff was "standard" in any way other than the mounting dimensions for the speakers, which made upgrading way more work than I expected. :-(
 
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07GtS197

07GtS197

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It’s technically the Mach 460, Ford dropped the 460 moniker after I think 2000 or 2001. Yeah that’s what I’m thinking. I just want to bypass the amps, install a new headunit and speakers. Most articles I’ve read are kind of vague. There are three harnesses that go into the stock radio. The only one that matters is the larger one. I’m guessing the other ones are for the amps. What harness or harnesses will I need to get rid of the amps? Do I need a harness for the other two as well?
 

ttocs

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there was a simple bypass harness in the 94/95 that I have never been able to find in anything after 96. I am not sure if it is not there or just hidden but you should be able to find it if you follow/trace the wiring coming out of the front amp. It use to clip right up next to the radio and probably is not that far from it but I have never got to dig around to look for it myself.
 
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07GtS197

07GtS197

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I think the amp on the newer cars is actually in the transmission hump next to the drivers seat but I could’ve read that wrong. I’ll do some digging this weekend. Now I’m kind of confused about the wiring. The larger harness is for power, ground, illumination and the speakers. How is it wired then? If the other two harnesses are for the amps, are the amps wired in series with the speakers? This is the part that confuses me. If I only need the one harness and couple just swap out the head unit and speakers then I’d be happy but I don’t think it’s that easy.
 

PNW Mike

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If you haven't done a "big" stereo installation, it can be a bit confusing until you stare at it for a bit and understand all of the connections. Adding in a seperate aftermarket amp like I did adds even more complexity. When I was thinking through my swap, I found it helpful to write down a list of every connector I was using, then for each connector list out all of the wires in it (with blank spaces noted and if available, pin numbers), the color of each wire, and what each wire is for.


I did a quick lookup on Crutchfield and on the Metra website, and it looks like your '02 radio wiring is different than my '97. It seems '00 was the cutover year to the new style. If you look up a Metra 70-, you can compare it to the connectors behind the factory radio in your dash and see if it matches your connectors. If it does, then that would handle connections at the radio end of things. Some of my notes below are for the earlier style radio connections, but the idea is the same.

But, that doesn't address bypassing the Mach amps, so below is what I learned on my '97, not sure how much of this translates to '02, but some checking of connectors and wiring diagrams may help. The few pictures and info on the front amps that I could find indicates that the front Mach amp look very similar and may have the same connector on yours as on mine, but well, random stuff on the internet is never 100% trustworthy, so you'll want to verify.



When I installed my stereo, my goal was to avoid running completely new wires to the speakers and to avoid cutting and hacking of the factory wiring, so this is written from that perspective - your goals may be different. In my case, I was also able to track down pigtails for the connectors to splice into the Mach subwoofer speaker wiring under the rear seat (to hook up the low frequency speaker outputs from my crossovers) to make it very close to 100% plug and play in terms of the connections I needed to make to the factory wiring. IIRC, the only non-plug and play part was the high power cable I ran from the battery back to the amp. This way, if I ever have to move this to another SN95, it's a pretty easy job.

In my case there was added complexity because I was running an aftermarket amp, but not running a super high powered one, so reusing the factory speaker wiring was a viable option for me. If I was running a larger amp, I would have needed to run new larger wires from the amp to the speakers. My car is a convertible, so I just wanted to be able to clearly hear my music with the top down, not blow what's left of my eardrums out. :)


For my car, the Mach 460 system used three amps - two woofer/subwoofer amps that drove the large door and rear speakers in mono pairs (each amp drove two speakers and the wires for the pair were literally spliced together in the harness under/behind the rear seat) and a third amp for the remaining four small mids-and-highs speakers (wired in a typical 4 speaker fashion). This third amp is the one is under the dash, buried way down in front of the gear shift.

I learned that that third amp on mine has the same connector speaker+amp turn on wiring connector as the mid-tier audio system and that it was wired identically in both systems. I mentally modelled this that the two extra Mach 460 amps and wiring are just to drive the larger speakers as big woofers/subs, but that Ford kept pretty much everything else the same and just fed everything above the subwoofer frequencies out of the front amp. Most or all of the Mach 460 wiring seemed to be in seperate harnesses from the main vehicle harnesses, presumably so it could be added on and then just plugged in during assembly based on the desired options.

This understanding of the way the amps were wired ended up being the ah-hah! moment for me, as Metra sells an amp bypass harness for the mid tier system - Metra 70-5605 - that has a nice long set of wires on it that includes an amp trigger wire to run from the dash back to my amp. This Metra adaptor also includes a power wiring adaptor for the radio, but it doesn't include all of the wires I needed in it (IIRC, it didn't have the amp trigger wire unless they're changed it). To avoid this, I used the radio power wire connector from a Metra 70-5510 kit to get all of the wires I needed at the radio.

I powered my aftermarket radio with the grey connector from the Metra 70-5510 kit, and then use the amp bypass connector from the Metra 70-5605 kit to connect to the speaker wires and grab the amp turn on feed at the connector for the third amp under the dash. I ran my pre-amp RCA cables from the radio to my amp in the back and the speaker wires from the Metra 70-5605 connector back to an aftermarket amp under the rear deck (technically, the amp was using this to feed into the wiring under the dash), but you could also tap these directly to the radio speaker outputs to feed the tweeter locations if you were not using a seperate amp.

Keep in mind that on the mach system the speaker wires in the Metra 70-5605 connector (which connects to the connector that originally went into the third/front amp) only feeds an audio signal to the smaller upper component speakers, not the larger woofers. If you wanted to, you could then use a small high/low pass filter and a pigtal of wiring in the doors and at the rear speakers to split the speaker wiring and hook up the lower woofers.
 
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07GtS197

07GtS197

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Is that the amp? I don’t know why but I thought it was directly below the radio not under the hvac box.

I see where you’re coming from. Looking at metra’s website, it only shows 70-5519 to install a head unit on a Mustang with premium sound, no amp bypass harness. So I guess without tearing them out, there isn’t a way to bypass them. The harness uses them with the new head unit. I might go this route because it’s plug and play. I don’t think the amps are draining my battery yet anyway so I’m not too concerned it’s just I didn’t want to deal with them.
 

ttocs

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I don't think that is it unless they changed the design a bit. They might have moved or eliminated the front amp under the radio sometime after 95.

Can you get a pic of the harnesses going to it?
 
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07GtS197

07GtS197

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Another observation. The large connector that’s not plugged in seems to only be for the cd player. The harness in the center is for the door woofers. So the rear speakers and the tweeters are wired through the left harness and the door speakers are on the center harness. Thats strange since the differences between the mach and non mach systems is the amps and tweeters. You would think that they would be on the other harness than the main harness but I digress. With all harnesses plugged in the door speakers are choppy and only play lows, very low bass. I’ll try to get a pic of the harness.
 

ttocs

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dig around behind the deck and see if you can trace any of the radio wiring going back to the front amp. If you find it see if you can find a harness that has similar colors although it is not uncommon for the stripes to wear off
right door
wh/l green
dark green/o g
right rear
og/red
brown/pink
left rear
grey/light blue
tan/yellow
left door
OG/lg
 
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07GtS197

07GtS197

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All of those wires are on the main harness that goes into the back of the radio. That makes sense since it’s shared with the base audio system. The other harness that I suspect goes to the amps goes into the dash towards the drivers side then turns up and goes deep inside the dash. I can’t get a definitive answer on where the front amp is on the 01+ cars. Some say it’s integrated into the head unit on the later cars.
 

ttocs

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ok the front "amp" was really more of a cross over than an amp and they could have moved it into the deck with out too much trouble especially since they went double din that year. If you can match those wires colors, get a AA battery and try to touch one wire to one side, and the other wire to other side and see if the speaker makes a small popping noise when you do that. If it does then you can use that harness as your radios output and bypass the amps by using the signal wires for the tweeter wires to drive the speakers.

But before you do this drag a meter down each wire and make sure it does not show up as a ground.
 
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07GtS197

07GtS197

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Ok I finally had time to do this and all speakers tested good through the main harness. I’m going to get a harness through metra and try installing the Sony head unit I pulled out of this car. The harness that came with it has loose pins and the other harness I bought from scosche is just as bad. I used a cheap scosche harness on my 02 gt when I installed the head unit and had some issues with the sound cutting out. It would start working again when I shoved my hand behind it and messed with the harness. I see why now, what junk.
 

PNW Mike

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I had a simialr issue with loose pins and cut outs with my original "head unit only replacement" on my '97. I traced it down to the poor connector design of the squarish-ish 8-pin (IIRC) factory connector that the pre-amp feeds connected to behind the radio. I drove around with left-only sound for way too long before I figured that out. :-(

Hopefully the newer factory connectors for your car are a better design and just the adapter connector is the issue!
 

ttocs

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I guess things change in all the years I installed I only had one instance where a harness was wrong out of the package and that was two pins switched. Scosche used to make good stuff
 

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