04 mach 1 start/idle issue.

FlyingPapaya

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swapped out the battery last week didnt think anything of it. couple days later car acted like i put it straight into 5th gear but i was near empty. filled her up and it went away. other day car did same thing then it died, hard time restarting it as i turned off main road then it wouldnt start again. got it back. fiddle fucked with stuff. got it home tried to start up then just cranks. played with neg battery cable it would try and start and its corroded so i replaced it. barely idles then dies. p12333 code that it didnt have before. i can hear the the ccrm click. tired and brain isnt working "long day at work". any help would be appreciated.

edit: i have a scan tool. what exactly should i be looking for? fuel pressure with key on perhaps?
Also i did get it to idle normally for a few minutes and blipping the throttle did not cause it to bog but then back to hard start shit idle that varies up and down. everything was fucking fine until battery swap.
 
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96blak54

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Sounds like a bad fuel rail pressure sensor or a cracked vacuum line to it. The sensors have been know to be crap. If its stock, its probably bad, if its aftermarket, its probably bad. I have zero trust in them darn things. Anyhow, the sensor registers pressure in the fuel rail and relates it to the ecu. Car will run, but hard start, and run/idle like trash. I think they roughly $50 new. And this is not say 100% is your issue, but just some experience ive been through. If you are smelling gas while trying to start, be cautious, its possible the fuel pressue sensor is compromised and transfering gas straight into the intake manifold through the vacuum hose.
 
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FlyingPapaya

FlyingPapaya

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so now two codes. p1233 and p0113. here are some screens from the scanner. battery 13.9v with engine on.
i did disconnect maf to see how it would react, that might have caused the p0113.
 
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FlyingPapaya

FlyingPapaya

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this may sound dumb but had an opportunity to grab two FPDM, either both are bad or mine isnt. got it to run for a minute or two, irratic idle, 6.2 psi fuel rail pressure relative to manifold vacuum as this scanner says at around 1k rpm. the onboard diagnostic tool on the dash says 126. i assume that means 12.6 and it died right after so not sure if it caught it at idle or grabbed that number right after it died. the inertia switch works as well.

Edit: 11v at inertia switch, got someone to key car on and listen for pump and zero sound. Tested inertia switch itself as well. It's good. Does power come from inertia switch to fpdm or from fpdm to inertia?
Fuck i need a wiring diagram.
 
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I_LIKE_TURTLEZ

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You're being guided down the rabbit hole, the codes are from the battery swap and disconnecting the MAF, ignore them. If the infamous inertia switch were triggered it wouldn't start at all, you have a failing fuel sending unit based off the symptoms.

You need to check fuel pressure at the rail with a mechanical gauge with the car running and then let it sit off while you watch the pressure, it should bleed off very slowly over half a day, never trust scan tool data that's rule #1. Rule #2 is never trust wiring diagrams, especially from Mitchell1.

Pure coincidence, when FSU's crap out it usually happens suddenly.
 

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Just throwing this at the wall, but I found on my '03 GT I ran the Fuel too low a couple of times to the GA-FL line, refueling on I-75 just before hitting the Flo-rid-doe line. At the time I didn't realize I was burning up the Fuel Pump until it hit me one day when my car did the same thing (not starting, starting then dying). I owned it since it was new, so I already understood what I had done, knowing my GT as I do. Also, you may have picked up some trash in the system running it that low. Simple, but sometimes true. Try a Fuel System Cleaner first, if it makes sense to you.
 

I_LIKE_TURTLEZ

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i do appreciate all the replies. suggestions on FSU? rock auto, lmr?
yes ive let fuel get low a few times and i know better...sigh
Rule of thumb with anything electrical is OEM, either Motorcraft or whoever makes the part for them. Especially post 2020, car part quality is now abysmal in most cases.
If memory serves, Bosch made the pumps, that would be my first choice behind the Motorcraft(which I'd assume is long sold out).
Third choice would be LMR, simply because I know they'd take care of you as a customer should the need arise.

I found the BOSCH 67170 on Rock Auto just now, $200 for the whole unit and comes with a new gasket.

When you open the tank, look inside for large amounts of debris, a tiny amount of mud and crust is normal on old vehicles.
Perfect time to replace your fuel filter as well.

And yeah try not to let the tank get below 25% since the gas is what cools the pump, especially when they're old.
 
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FlyingPapaya

FlyingPapaya

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Rule of thumb with anything electrical is OEM, either Motorcraft or whoever makes the part for them. Especially post 2020, car part quality is now abysmal in most cases.
If memory serves, Bosch made the pumps, that would be my first choice behind the Motorcraft(which I'd assume is long sold out).
Third choice would be LMR, simply because I know they'd take care of you as a customer should the need arise.

I found the BOSCH 67170 on Rock Auto just now, $200 for the whole unit and comes with a new gasket.

When you open the tank, look inside for large amounts of debris, a tiny amount of mud and crust is normal on old vehicles.
Perfect time to replace your fuel filter as well.

And yeah try not to let the tank get below 25% since the gas is what cools the pump, especially when they're old.
thats the one i was looking at BOSCH 67170 lol. i love this place :) im going to pump out all the fuel probably tomorrow after work then drop tank on sunday. only day apartment office is closed even though they have allowed me to work on my vehicles before. i have a feeling something got sucked into the pump, maybe the sock didnt catch it and it burned up. i still have to install my cc plates, rear shocks/springs and lca's. graaaaaaa

this is tempting but i should just order it through rockauto
 
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FlyingPapaya

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Fuel tank itself was super clean inside with almost zero debris. Just a bit when I was pouring it out from the filler neck hole into a fuel cell. Like a couple specs lol
 
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FlyingPapaya

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Lol now driver's window doesn't go down. Did after fuel pump went out. Hear clicking noise near hood release lever when you tap window switch. edit: fixed it. held switch down and slammed door. works. wtf lol

MODS: do you want me to delete thread or leave it up for others?
 
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I_LIKE_TURTLEZ

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Leave the thread up, some kid 8 years from now will use it as guidance.

The window motor is going out, that's why the door slam got it to work, we test fuel pumps the same way by lightly tapping the tank with a hammer. Pure science.

Impressive doing that with a tiny toolbox in a parking lot, hopefully you used jack stands & I assume the car runs properly now.
 
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FlyingPapaya

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lots of tools crammed into that box, breaker bar, torque wrench, snap on stuff from when i worked at a shop. sold all my air tools. yes jack stands on the frame rails. shit when i change a flat tire on the side of the road i throw the flat under the car because i dont trust scissor jacks. i even started carrying a jack in the trunk of my altima because i kept getting flats. i had the front wheels chalked too because its parked on a slight incline.

my diag skills are shitty and rusty which is why this thread lol. Again thank you everyone for all the help.
This worth it?
 
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96blak54

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I just did a filler neck grommet/seal replacement on my 01 cobra. Attempting to top off the tank and fuel poured out full blast. The rubber was crap. If you didnt replace yours, you are in luck! Because your work looks premium and shouldnt take you long to replace it if yours craps out...lol. Its like $15 at the part store.

Excellent work tho!
 
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FlyingPapaya

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I did check it closely and clean it before putting filler neck back. It looked in really good condition. I was surprised at how clean the tank was on the inside as well.
 

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