1/4 mile time 15.2 is something wrong

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by domasticus, Mar 26, 2015.

  1. domasticus

    domasticus New Member

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    I have a 94 gt convertible it has 160,000 miles and with me in it it weighed 3700 pounds the only mods are homestyle air intake exhaust and 3.73 gears everything else is stock tires are 245/45/17 street tires I have taken my car to the track twice the first time I ran my fastest time was 16.8 this was before my gears after I had them installed I went back and ran a 15.2 from which I can tell is about stock time is there something that im missing why does it seem slow at the track it doesn't feel slow and I haven't been out ran on the street by anything that seems around my level
     
  2. dee99gt

    dee99gt New Member

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    Auto or manual? What is your 60ft time?
     
  3. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    Few things.. Convertibles are heavy and slower. If its automatic that makes it worse lol. Any suspension work? A set of full length weld in subframe connectors would help. A set of rear lower control arms would too. I run J&M's rear upper and lower control arms
     
  4. Tony Corley

    Tony Corley New Member

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    At this hp level, subframe connectors and rear control arms might help consistency, but will do little, if any to pick up et. What was your 60 ft., and was the car spinning? The best bang for your buck right now would be a good tune, especially on the transmission side to firm up the shifts. The 94-95 AODE's are notoriously sluggish. I picked up over .5 seconds on an otherwise stock 95, (with 3.73's and catback), after raising line pressure and moving shift points with a tune. With a lot more gear, (4.56), long tube headers, 4500 convertor and slicks, and adjustable shocks front and rear, the same car ended up running 13.50's, still with factory rear control arms. Weight was close to 3400 lbs.
     
  5. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

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    3700 is heavy for maybe 200rwhp. Add a AOD to the mix and I think 15.2 is pretty good.

    Just the gears were worth over 1.5 seconds?? Is that normal? I wouldn't think it would be that drastic.

    What is your trap speed? And what was the trap speed before the gear install?
     
  6. domasticus

    domasticus New Member

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    60 foot mark was 2.28 with gears and 2.8 without it is a manual no suspension work and speed was 87 before and 93 after the gear swap i know the engine has some miles on it but could i cant believe that it would slow me down that much and these are the time i did not spin
     
  7. Tony Corley

    Tony Corley New Member

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    Sorry, I thought I read it was an automatic. Since it's a stick, there are a lot more unknown variables, especially the driver.
     
  8. mcglsr2

    mcglsr2 Well-Known Member SN95 Supporter

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    Gotta say, for your car and it's current configuration, I think a 15.2 is pretty good. It feels fast because torque. Doesn't mean that it is fast. These cars really aren't that fast in stock form. 3700 lbs with you in it sounds right-ish, depending on what you weigh. If you are a bigger guy, then it's about right. If you weigh like 120 soaking wet then your car sounds like it's a little on the heavy side.

    Using a 1/4 estimater (which I know isn't precise, but just for a gauge), your car with with about 3700 weight and roughly 185 whp should be in the ~15.8 territory. I think you are spot on at 15.2.
     
  9. domasticus

    domasticus New Member

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    i thought that the 5.0s put out around 215hp stock and it seems people with similar setups are running quicker im sure it has lost a few hp over the years but 40? i am planning on a hurst quickthrow shifter to try to improve shifting down the track but for now it has stock shifter in it
     
  10. Tony Corley

    Tony Corley New Member

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    He said 185 whp, the 215 rating is flywheel hp. I'm still willing to bet there is some et left in driving.
     
  11. mcglsr2

    mcglsr2 Well-Known Member SN95 Supporter

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    Yup, this. The 215 hp is rated at the Flywheel, or engine (or 215 hp at the engine). After the power goes through your trans, the driveshaft and your rear diff, the power is really about 185 whp or so (or 185 hp at the wheels, the "w" in whp means "wheel horse power").

    The gears will help with acceleration, but I didn't think they'd help that much. Most of the time, the gears are used to time shifts on the drag strip such that you cross the finish line at the top of 4th gear (or whatever your 1:1 gear is, in our case with these cars that's 4th). Gears in and of themselves don't specifically reduce times by that much, but rather allow the car to better use the power band it has, which is what reduces the time. I'd be willing to bet that your time improvement was more a function of your (better) driving than it was just a gear change.

    Not sure there is too much more ET on the table given the current configuration of the car. Unless OP comes back and says he was at like 100 mph+ at the end, or had a really bad 60 ft time like over 2 seconds, I think that's about where the car is going to be. OP might be able to eek out an extra tenth or two. But not much more beyond that. To get better times, it's time to mod :)
     
  12. Tony Corley

    Tony Corley New Member

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    With a 93 mph trap speed, I can see the car easily being .2 to .5 seconds quicker. 60ft. is a little slow, and once again, can't comment on shifting, since of course, can't see it. You said these times were when you didn't spin, but what rpm did you launch at to keep from spinning? With the 60ft times shown, that may be your first place to look. If you had to lower launch rpm to hook, then there is lost et. If you are referring that the car didn't spin meaning that it didn't just blow the tires off, then there could also be some et loss there, if it was still turning the tires over.
     
  13. domasticus

    domasticus New Member

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    i have not gone to the track much so im sure there is a lot to learn about shifting im sure this is part of the reason why ets are not where id like them to be im planning on getting a short throw shifter to hopefully help with this but is there any advice that i should keep in mind with street tires what kinda rpm should it be able to hold at launch
     
  14. Tony Corley

    Tony Corley New Member

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    The problem with what your asking is there is no correct answer. Different tire compounds, track conditions and ton of other things make the difference. The trick is really practice. Launch your car at an rpm that it hooks at, and keep raising the rpm each pass until it blows the tires off, then back it down to the last point it worked. You can also slip the clutch to keep the tires hooked, but it will shorten clutch life dramatically. What rpm were you launching at?
     
  15. domasticus

    domasticus New Member

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    15-2000 any higher and tires spin alright thank you for all the information its a great help i look forward to being part of the site and all the help the me and my sn95 need
     
  16. Tony Corley

    Tony Corley New Member

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    There is the big problem, lol. Stickier tires and launching at 4 to 5k will pick up that et a lot.
    I'm new here also, but I've been messing with these Mustangs for close to 30 years, and drag racing off and on for 37 lol
     
  17. domasticus

    domasticus New Member

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    the only thing is i would be expecting to break something if i stuck drag tires on as is and did that it is going to need a little beefing up before its ready to run slicks in my opinion since its also my daily driver i need to be sure it wont twist my drive line in half or rip a gear out of trans or anything crazy like that
     
  18. mcglsr2

    mcglsr2 Well-Known Member SN95 Supporter

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    Yah, I would plan for some mods before putting super grippy tires on it. I think (and I don't have that much experience drag racing, so take it for what you will), that 15.0 is about the best you will getting. On a perfect, perfect, stars and moon and planets in alignment type of run, you might break into the 14's. But for the most part, 15 is where the car is. You can improve this by launching at a higher rpm (perhaps) or putting on stickier tires - you will get a little faster but like you said, also greatly increase the risk of breaking things without some modifications. So like I said before, it's probably time to mod :) If you don't want to mod just yet, then keep your car the way it is, forget about the 1/4 time, and practice nailing down your launch and 60 ft times. This will benefit you no matter what mods are on the car, and when you add mods later, you will make the best use of them. You can work on the driver mod right now :)
     
  19. Tony Corley

    Tony Corley New Member

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    If you are concerned about that, then stop taking it to the track. Not trying to be a smartass, just saying that even spinning, it can and will break drivetrain parts. The cars that are running quicker than you are applying the technique of "Drive it like you stole it"! Making more power is only going to add to the possibility of breaking something.

    I enjoy getting the most out of the combination before throwing aftermarket parts in the mix, but you have to be willing to push things to their limit.
    I'll bet that the '94 GT we are currently building will end up going 12's with unported E7's, stock intake, stock cam with rockers, AODE with J-Mod, convertor, gears, exhaust, shocks , tires, and tuning, while still retaining full interior, a/c and p/s.
     
  20. domasticus

    domasticus New Member

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    im told every time that i go that i could break something which is ok its not that im against blowing my car up lol im sure which will happen eventually but if its something that ive heard has broken several vehicles(in this case putting slicks on stock car) im a little more hesitant

    o and do you have a link or any pics of the cars your building?