1994 mustang cobra keyless entry module

[Novadose434]

Hey guys I’m new to the forum. I just ran into issues with my keyless entry. Number 8 fuse kept blowing under the dash killing power to the radio, dome light, power mirrors and keyless entry. Found the keyless module in the trunk smoking. I was able to find 2 used modules. But I was wondering if anyone makes a new replacement or knows of someone that repairs these. Has anyone bypassed the module? With the module unplugged the radio and power mirrors work but not the dome light. If it can be bypassed is there anything that can be done to get that dome light working? I do have the factory/or dealer installed alarm with the valet button under the steering column. I’m not sure if there is anyway to bypass that alarm as well. Today I installed one of the used modules but it seems to function a little different than the original one. Usually hitting the unlock once would unlock both doors and disarm the alarm. But this module if I hit unlock once it just unlocks the drivers side door but doesn’t disarm the alarm. But if I hit unlock twice it unlocks all doors and disarms the alarm. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

[ttocs]

strange the way the new one is working. progressive locks are when you push the unlock and it disarms and unlocks only the drivers side, push again and the pass door unlocks. Never heard of needing a 2nd push to disarm.

As for bypassing the alarm up front, it they didn't hook up the starter kill removing it is as simple as following each wire and then just cutting it and insulating it. Now if the starter kill is hooked up you will either leave the relay normally used in place(just insulate the orange wire to it) and it will work as normal, otherwise you will need to remove the relay and reconnect the starter wire that it interrupts.

I am in the hospital and away from my wiring bible but I bet there is just a simple jumper that plugs into the alarm harness that allows the dome light to work. I hope to get out tomorrow and can try to remember to take a look

 

[Novadose434]

Thanks for all that info I really appreciate it and hope everything is ok with you being in the hospital. I’d honestly like to keep everything in tact if possible. It’s just really bothering me how it’s not disarming on the first time hitting the unlock. I might try putting the other one in I got as well and see if something is different. I’m wondering if different years were a little different. But I could have sworn the 94-98 were the same module. This is the original one that was in the car. The ones I put in have the same part number but the labeling is a little different.

 

[ttocs]

what the hell is up with the t-tapp connectors? Did you use those or someone else? Those connectors are horrible as they slowly chew away at the wire they attach to and can/will eventually cut it. I would start by removing those, and since it is in the trunk some standard crimp connections would work, solder/shrink would be better but not really needed. One of those wires could be cut already and causing your problem.

 

[Novadose434]

I know it’s horrible. The original owner I bought it from had one of those LoJack tracking devices put in when he bought the car in 94… non of the taps are on any of the module wires.

 

[ttocs]

I would still inspect those wires to be sure they are not cut already. just pull the blue part off and you will see the copper.

in all honesty I would skip the stock piece. An aftermarket keyless can be found installed for around a $100 depending on your location and then you are not getting 30 yr old electronics. Or if you find out what brand the alarm is up front you can probably get a remote and program it to the module.

 

[95opal]

Don't see the dome light in the wiring diagram.

1995-97 Ford Mustang Alarm and Remote Start Wire Colors and Locations

www.the12volt.com

 

[ttocs]

I am not sure how accurate that info is as I am pretty sure the keyless turns on the dome light, now it does not have anything to do with the windows, brake switch, neutral safety switch which are listed

this looks more accurate to me

well dang it will not show the pic. Look on the first post here https://www.allfordmustangs.com/thr...e-8-keyless-entry-module-i-need-help.1100010/

 

[Novadose434]

Yeah the dome light is definitely part of it. After figuring out the module was bad I replaced the number 8 fuse and disconnected the module and no dome light. Once that new module was in it was back on.

 

[ttocs]

Does it turn on when you turn the head light nob? I am getting discharged now from the hospital(shortly). I am willing to bet that with out the keyless we might need to add a jumper wire from the door trigger to the dome light output. Don't try it till I confirm it but hopefully shortly I can check the schematic

 

[ttocs]

just got home and I was wrong, because of the power saving feature the keyless actually does monitor the window switches, which makes no sense since they are not on when the key is not on but idunno.

is this a hard top right? if you want to try to get the dome light working with out it, look on the harness for a black wire with a light blue stripe and check it to see if it shows power or ground on it with the door open. I think that wire needs to be grounded and then it should work, but I would not try it with out testing for voltage/ground and even then when I first connected them I would put a 3 amp fuse in the wire to pop in case I am not reading it right.

 

[Novadose434]

Yes it’s a hard top. The wiring definitely is weird on this car. My Chevy nova is nice and simple if you have an issue it’s usually just a bad ground haha. I’m honestly okay with keeping the keyless entry. It just really annoyed me that this new module is acting different. I have another one I might try and swap out and see what happens. I also have another one on order I found that looked more similar to the original one in the car so going to give it a shot. Maybe after 94 they changed things up not sure. The module I have on order shows it’s dated to late 93. So hoping for the best. But I did hear that these modules did have issues with burning out.

 

[Flade]

The keyless entry module is the same for 94-98 cars. The cars have completely different wiring when ordered without the module, so it has to be installed for everything to work correctly. The alarm you have must be dealer installed. The factory alarm is an add on module that plugs into the same bracket as the keyless entry module. It’s easy to add, the wiring is already there. The behavior you are seeing must have to do with how they wired the alarm into the existing system.

 

[Novadose434]

Thanks for the info. I was told by the original owner it was definitely a dealer installed alarm. I even have the ford paper work for the alarm and how to disarm it with that valet mode button. Just debating if I want to do away with the alarm completely and just keep the keyless entry or just leave it as is and just deal with it how it is functioning now.

 

[Flade]

Thanks for the info. I was told by the original owner it was definitely a dealer installed alarm. I even have the ford paper work for the alarm and how to disarm it with that valet mode button. Just debating if I want to do away with the alarm completely and just keep the keyless entry or just leave it as is and just deal with it how it is functioning now.

I had the dealer installed alarm as well (but not the Keyless entry). One of the wires got shorted when the dash was open for A/C work and it killed the module. I couldn’t find a replacement so I had to disconnect and repair the wires. If I remember correctly there were two wires cut, and several other had taps in them. Pretty easy to remove. In your position I would look for a factory alarm module. It is really simple to install. Then remove the dealer installed alarm. It will simplify the wiring and everything should work as designed.

 

[Novadose434]

I didn’t see any alarm module in the trunk so I’m guessing it’s somewhere under the dash. I have to try and find it when I get a chance. Thank you guys for all your help.

 

[ttocs]

they are easy to hide in the kick panels where most of the wiring is also available to tap easy. If not you can probably find some of the wiring from it in there and follow it back to the module.