1995 Mustang GT DD Rebuild

Discussion in 'Build Ups & Projects' started by Vettn71, Jan 7, 2015.

  1. Vettn71

    Vettn71 Member

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    Well, my EGR problem persists, kind of. I get a CEL when the car first warms up, then it goes out. Depending on how it happens to feel at the moment, I may or may not get a CEL when driving. It doesn’t seem to follow any pattern; it will come on, then after 30 seconds or so it goes out. Sometimes it stays on. I plan on doing an H/C/I later this year, so I’ll have another run at it then. I did put on my CAI. It doesn’t really do anything with the car being stock, but I figured “Why not?” Turned out to be a total PIA, even worse than the stock unit. It looks like the angle coming into the MAF is a bit off, probably because it’s made to fit a car with an aftermarket induction system. I finally got everything lined up and tightened down.

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  2. DavidBoren

    DavidBoren Active Member

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    You said you were going to do the h/c/i swap later this year. Are you collecting other parts to go on at the same time (75mm throttle body and maf, 24# injectors, etc)? The reason I ask is you talk like you already have the head, cam, and intake in your possession, so why not install it sooner rather than later?
     
  3. Vettn71

    Vettn71 Member

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    Quick update. I had 3.55 gears installed in the rear this weekend. A place called “Gearheads†in south Arlington, Texas did the work. I had an estimate from a local Goodyear Service Center - $700, with me supplying the gears and install kit. I knew I could get a better price from that somewhere. Gearheads did it for $250, and supplied the gear oil and friction modifier. They do a lot of work for my son’s 93 347, and so far the work they have done for me has been top-rate.

    I can’t say there is a night-and-day difference between the 2.73s and the 3.55s, but it is definitely quicker accelerating and, since I do a lot of highway driving, I think this combo will work out best for me. I know a lot of people say go with the 4.10s on an auto, but I’m not interested in light-to-light displays of driving skill and I won’t be tracking the car. Guess I’m just boring. :0)
     
  4. Vettn71

    Vettn71 Member

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    This weekend I decided I would work on the interior. I have 2000 Mustang seats and had put in new carpet, but the rest of the interior was not up to speed. While I was at it I decided I would install the rear quarter windows and regulators I had bought. Things did not go well. I stripped out the interior as shown in the next figure. There was almost no rust. The dark spots are from the other carpet install, where it pulled the paint off the insulation and body work.

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    The new regulators were from a 2001 Mustang convertible. Visually, they looked identical, except the 1995 regulators were painted, while the 2001 regulators were galvanized steel. To install, the rear quarter trim had to be removed, which I had already done. The window has to be removed from the track to remove the regulator from the smallish cavity in the body. Two screws are removed with the window almost all the way up, then the final screw in removed with the window lowered. I installed the new regulator, which fit perfectly, but the window was canted in towards the interior; not a little, but a bunch, probably two inches or more. There is an adjustment at the bottom to adjust the window in or out, but it was all the way in, meaning no more adjustment was possible. I measured and looked and could see very little difference between the two, but could not get it to align. I finally gave up and put the new motors on the old regulators, which seem to work fine. Anyone know why they don’t adjust?

    After wasting four hours on that project, plus the time it took to strip the interior and transfer the wiring from the old center console to the new one, the day was pretty much done. Day two I decided to install the sound deadener. I had bought 100 square feet of butyl rubber 50 mil sound deadener from GT Sound on eBay. $149 for two 35†wide rolls. It took a little less than 50 square feet to do the floors, see the next figure. This took me all day working by myself. Two people could probably do a better job and knock it out quicker, but it is what it is. I originally wanted to install the front to back insulation in one piece, which is what I did on the driver’s side. Trying to align the sheeting, deal with the plastic backing and keeping it from sticking to itself proved to be a real PIA. If it touches itself, it is stuck, period. I decided to use smaller sections that overlapped after that and, even though it took longer to roll everything out, I think I got better coverage. The rear seat area was difficult to cover, as it has many curves and uneven surfaces. I again used as large a piece as I could, but overlapped pieces to get complete coverage. I took the sound deadener up to the partition between the rear seat and the trunk.

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    I also decided to install the gear selector I bought for a 2001 Mustang. It has a bigger handle and has the OD button right by the thumb. Visually the two shifter assemblies were identical, except for the handle lever. After removing the old gear selector assembly, I installed the 2001 unit. Everything went well until I tried to snap the cable onto the ball on the shift lever. It would not fit. The ball was smaller than the one on the 1995 assembly. I can’t get to the cable to change it out, due to the way my exhaust is configured. I noticed there was a nut holding the shift lever on to the base. After removing a plastic cover, I unscrewed the nut, wriggled the lever back and forth and took it out of the base. I did the same with the 2001 gear selector. The photos show the 1995 gear shift lever and bezel, and the 2001 selector base. They fit together just fine and it seems to work well. If someone is in the same situation I was, where you can’t get to the cable, this might be an option you want to try.

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  5. Cpotts13

    Cpotts13 Well-Known Member

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    I think automatics benefit greatly by using a manual transmission boot to cover the base of the shifter and a cue ball shifter for automatics.. Always felt like the shifter was an eye sore. hahah
     
  6. Vettn71

    Vettn71 Member

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    I agree about the looks of the shifter. The newer style is a bit better, but not by much. :0)

    I decided while I had gone this far, I might as well replace the dash with a 2000 – 2004 dash. I removed my very nice black dash and swapped the wiring over to the new dash. Took about an hour to remove the old dash, another hour to swap the harness and another hour to install it. Not too bad, really. This is where having a convertible helps. As luck would have it when I was swapping the harness out the dash rolled over a screw and punched a hole it the top of it. I thought I had all the parts and pieces away from it, but I was using a black comforter to rest the dash on so it wouldn’t get dinged up. So much for that idea. I plan on selling the old dash pad on Craig’s List locally. The dash is a bare dash, so vents or glove box, etc. – just the dash. One of the plastic crosspieces at the radio opening is cracked, but it can be repaired. I don’t think this supports any weight; it just defines the opening. If anyone in the DFW area is interested I’ll let it go for $150. I have a black passenger airbag that is good that can go with it. The three sections on the airbag have started to separate, but I’m sure it can be repaired.

    New dash installed.

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    Old dash

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    I finished up the installation of the sound deadener in the trunk and still have quite a bit left. Not sure how much, as it’s rolled up. I ran the microphone wire for my Bluetooth hands-free phone that comes with the Pioneer AVH-270BT. I’m also going to install a backup camera, since the radio is set up for it. I’ve got all new speakers, also. I noticed that this car came originally equipped with the premium sound system, and the stock amp is wired in. They had at least used adapter harnesses to do the radio install, so I’m hoping it will be easier than going from a dead start. This is what is going in

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  7. Vettn71

    Vettn71 Member

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    Finished up the install on the new gauge pod/bezel and the oil pressure and water temp gauges. I guess it was more complicated because I’m using mechanical gauges, but it was like a Rubick’s cube going in. Getting the line in for the water temp was the most difficult part, as it was hard to get it to pull back when inserting the bezel. The new pod/bezel looks good though and the fit was pretty close. I used a Dremel tool to open up the gauge openings a bit, and the hole for the light switch knob was off by about an 1/8 to ¼ inch. It was only 20 minutes worth of work to do that and I think overall it looks pretty good.

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  8. Vettn71

    Vettn71 Member

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    I decided not to use the plastic line going to my oil pressure gauge; it just seemed like it would fail. I looked on line for braided stainless steel hose, but Autometer wanted $60 to $70 for six feet! That doesn’t include the AN fittings needed. It would be close to $100 to install one gauge. I went to a small independent parts place I know where they are a bunch of old hot rodders. I found four feet of -3 stainless steel line for $19, and the fittings cost me another $10. Nice deal. Here are the pictures of the parts, if anyone wants to look them up. Parts all look to be nice quality, also.

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    Four feet of stainless -3 line

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    Adapters

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    This goes into the block

    Jim[​IMG]

    These are a much less expensive alternative to the parts available from Autometer
     
  9. Vettn71

    Vettn71 Member

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    I installed the oil pressure gauge hose assembly tonight. I'm sure I've had worse projects, but ix can't remember when. Getting to the OP switch is a beating, as it's behind the oil filter and just below the a/c compressor. Removing the filter helped, but I wasn't able to screw the OP switch into the end of my "T", as the a/c compressor was in the way. Right now I put Teflon tape on a 1/4" pipe plug for now. I did get the -3 stainless steel line connected from the gauge to the OP extension pipe. Anyone have any ideas on how to get the OP switch on? I couldn't get a picture, as it is stuck way back behind everything

    jim
     
  10. Vettn71

    Vettn71 Member

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    Getting down to the home stretch now. I installed the carpet, rear quarter trim panels and door panels.

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    Why ACC makes their carpet with such a big hump in the rear trans tunnel, I don't know. This is the second ACC Mustang carpet I've bought and both fit fine up front, but behind the console it's huge. I put 3 leayers of carpet underneath it to take up the extra space. Also, when buying foor panels for our cars, make certain you determine if they are for a Mustang with the Mach sound system or not. The door panels with the Mach system has a large gap between the door panel and where the black triangular plastic filler piece goes

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    Next weekend is MOther's day, so I probably won't get anything done. I'm waiting to install the seats until I can have them professionally cleaned.
     
  11. Vettn71

    Vettn71 Member

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    The 95 is now the "Yellow Submarine".. I got caught in a flash flood in Dallas a couple weeks ago. The engine hydro locked and the car was totaled. I've bought CWO's 96 GT. He'd done a lot of work on it and I plan to carry on Tim's efforts. Initially, I plan on putting in 30lb injectors and a 255l/hr fuel pump. I have an appointment at GearHeads in Mansfield, Texas, not too far from where I live.With thee 5-speed and the 3.73:1's, it should move pretty good. I'll post as I get moving on this.
     
  12. Burninriverdiver

    Burninriverdiver Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to hear about the vert, however that red 96 will be great. He did a nice build on the 4.6
     
  13. Vegasfilter

    Vegasfilter Member

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    Dude that's a bummer. Hopefully you get as far with this one!