1996 Mustang GT HPDE Track Car

SVTstang96 · Jun 14, 2015

I have been looking at building a track car out of my 96 Cobra for a couple years now but after some thinking and searching I came across a 96 GT that would allow me to keep my 96 Cobra as a nice daily/cruiser yet have a car I can take to the track and not worry about getting a dent or ding in it.

After thinking for a few days I pulled the trigger and picked up this dedicated track car.

1996 Mustang GT
138,000 Miles

Suspension Mods:
-Steeda Subframe Connectors
-Steeda Caster/Camber Plates
-Steeda Rear Adjustable Sway Bar
-Eibach Sportline Springs
-Maximum Motorsports HD Lower Control Arms
-KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks/Struts
-Kenny Brown Rear Shock Tower Brace
-Cobra Brakes Front & Rear
-Hawk HP+ Pads
-DBA T2 Front Rotors
-Stainless Brake Lines
-Flaming River Steering Shaft

Drivetrain Mods:
-Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
-Steeda Intake Plenum
-BBK 75mm Throttle Body
-Mac Cold Air Intake
-BBK Aluminum Valve Covers
-Steeda Adjustable Crank Timing Gear
-Steeda Onderdrive Pulleys
-Brake Cooling Ducts
-80mm Maf
-FRPP 24# Injectors
-Superchips Tune
-Steeda Aluminum Clutch Quadrant
-Steeda Clutch Adjuster
-PI Heads/PI Intake
-BBK Long Tube Headers
-BBK Off Road H-Pipe
-3 Chamber Delta-Flow Flowmaster Mufflers
-AC Delete Pulley
-Remote Mount Oil Cooler
-Steeda 3-Core Aluminum Radiator
-FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft
-FRPP 31 Spline Axles
-FRPP 3.73 Gears
-Torsen T2-R Differential
-Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge
-Water Temperature Gauge
-FRPP Plug Wires

Safety Mods-
-Cobra Imola S GT Seats
-Corbeau Seat Tracks
-Sparco 6-Point Harness
-Sparco Harness Bar
-Sparco Steering Wheel
-Steeda Hard Core Battery Relocation
-Long Acre Hot Laps Timing System

Wheels/Tires-
-Zigen 17x9 FN01R-C Lightweight Wheells withToyo Proxes RR Tires
-Original OEM 17" Wheels with Yokohama Rain Tires w/ Tire Bags
-Spare Toyo Proxes RR Tire

SVTstang96 · Jun 14, 2015

When I purchased it I was aware there were issue with the engine. After doing a leak down test on cylinder 5 and checking things over I decided to pull the engine. Once I pulled the engine I did a full leak down on each cylinder just to help with the diagnosing. I found intake valves stuck open on cylinder 5,6 and 7 as well as blow by on 6 of the 8 pistons. After a full disassembly I found the engine was run very lean causing piston #1 to melt along the lower edge, broken rings on 5 of the pistons which 2 of them also had cracked ring lands. Although while tearing it down I found that the water pump, timing components and oil pump had been recently replaced.

hotmustang95 · Jun 14, 2015

Very good idea leaving the cobra alone and finding a dedicated track car. I didn't see anything about calipers. You running stock one or what.

DKblue98GT · Jun 14, 2015

That looks like a fun car.

1998cobrasvt · Jun 14, 2015

^ This

wmfateam · Jun 14, 2015

Sweet deal. Subscribed.

SVTstang96 · Jun 15, 2015

hotmustang95 said:
Very good idea leaving the cobra alone and finding a dedicated track car. I didn't see anything about calipers. You running stock one or what.

Sorry I knew I was forgetting something. They are 94-98 cobra brakes front and rear. 13" twin piston up front and 11.65" single piston in the rear.

white95 · Jun 15, 2015

subscribing

mcglsr2 · Jun 15, 2015

Nice! Any additional plans or just going to correct the engine issues, slap it back together and drive it?

SVTstang96 · Jun 15, 2015

mcglsr2 said:
Nice! Any additional plans or just going to correct the engine issues, slap it back together and drive it?

Currently I am trying to work out the engine build details but once the engine is back together and running I plan on removing the sparco harness bar in favor of a real cage. Not sure if I am going to buy something like the mm one you have or build one myself. I have access to a bender and notcher so its tempting to just do it myself but I'm not 100% sure what route I want to go yet.

There is also a track day at Iowa Speedway on the 11th or 12th that I am trying to get the car back on the road for. I doubt the car will be 100% ready but it will give me a good idea of what the car is capable of and what still needs to be addressed.

As for the engine build I am debating a couple different routes. Option 1 is to use a mark viii engine on craigslist nearby for $500 that I have been thinking about. I would freshen up the short block with new bearings and rings and then put the PI heads on it after I get them back from the machine shop. From my research it would make like 11.5-12:1 compression and weight less than what I started with since its a Teksid block. This would present some problems though. Something with that high of compression would need to run 93 minimum and have good tune on it.

Option 2 is just to rebuild the block using a set of mark viii pistons I have and put the PI heads on it when they are back. It would make the same compression and have the same fuel/tuning issues as the block above but I wouldn't have the weight savings of the Teksid block.

Option 3 is to just rebuild the block to how it was before and leave it all as it is. Boring but the fuel and tuning issues wouldn't be present.

mcglsr2 · Jun 15, 2015

SVTstang96 said:
Currently I am trying to work out the engine build details but once the engine is back together and running I plan on removing the sparco harness bar in favor of a real cage. Not sure if I am going to buy something like the mm one you have or build one myself. I have access to a bender and notcher so its tempting to just do it myself but I'm not 100% sure what route I want to go yet.

There is also a track day at Iowa Speedway on the 11th or 12th that I am trying to get the car back on the road for. I doubt the car will be 100% ready but it will give me a good idea of what the car is capable of and what still needs to be addressed.

As for the engine build I am debating a couple different routes. Option 1 is to use a mark viii engine on craigslist nearby for $500 that I have been thinking about. I would freshen up the short block with new bearings and rings and then put the PI heads on it after I get them back from the machine shop. From my research it would make like 11.5-12:1 compression and weight less than what I started with since its a Teksid block. This would present some problems though. Something with that high of compression would need to run 93 minimum and have good tune on it.

Option 2 is just to rebuild the block using a set of mark viii pistons I have and put the PI heads on it when they are back. It would make the same compression and have the same fuel/tuning issues as the block above but I wouldn't have the weight savings of the Teksid block.

Option 3 is to just rebuild the block to how it was before and leave it all as it is. Boring but the fuel and tuning issues wouldn't be present.

Some thoughts: cage/rollbar stuff is scary to me - meaning I will rely on it to save my life. I personally don't have the experience to make a cage, at least one that I would trust. I don't know your level of experience with that stuff so I won't make any assumptions. The good thing to a pre-built cage from MM or Auto Power or whatever is that you know it will be probably work. Apart from having a dedicated cage made for me, I felt this was the best option for me. I'm definitely a fan of DIY, but safety items like cages scare me

As for the engine options, I think you really only have option 1 or option 3 - option sounds like you pay the "penalty" of running better gas without the weight savings, so not really worth in IMO. If it's easy enough to get the stock block back together assuming that's easy and cheap. Drive the car like that and get a feel for it. You might find out that there are other areas to spend the money/energy first (like suspension) and that the engine isn't the bottleneck yet.

Overall, sounds awesome though, you are going to have some fun

SVTstang96 · Jun 15, 2015

mcglsr2 said:
Some thoughts: cage/rollbar stuff is scary to me - meaning I will rely on it to save my life. I personally don't have the experience to make a cage, at least one that I would trust. I don't know your level of experience with that stuff so I won't make any assumptions. The good thing to a pre-built cage from MM or Auto Power or whatever is that you know it will be probably work. Apart from having a dedicated cage made for me, I felt this was the best option for me. I'm definitely a fan of DIY, but safety items like cages scare me

As for the engine options, I think you really only have option 1 or option 3 - option sounds like you pay the "penalty" of running better gas without the weight savings, so not really worth in IMO. If it's easy enough to get the stock block back together assuming that's easy and cheap. Drive the car like that and get a feel for it. You might find out that there are other areas to spend the money/energy first (like suspension) and that the engine isn't the bottleneck yet.

Overall, sounds awesome though, you are going to have some fun

The cage part doesn't worry me that much. A friend of mine works at a shop that builds cages for off road vehicles including some that have participated in king of the hammer. If they can build cages that withstand that kind of abuse I'm sure they could help with one for a mild track car. I should have specified that before that I would not be building it alone. More than likely I would be bringing the car down there and doing the work with him on the weekend or after hours. Ideally id like to build one but the convenience and time savings of just buying one and installing it is really inticing.

As for the engine I agree 100% with what you have to say. Im leaning toward just a factory rebuild just because it would be easier and cheaper. Realistically I'm not building the car to compete at a high level or anything. Just something I can have fun with and not risk damaging my cobra instead.

ReplicaR · Jun 15, 2015

SVTstang96 said:
-Sparco Steering Wheel

Which steering wheel is that?

mcglsr2 · Jun 15, 2015

ReplicaR said:
Which steering wheel is that?

Sparco.

lol sorry, couldn't resist

1998cobrasvt · Jun 15, 2015

mcglsr2 said:
Sparco.

lol sorry, couldn't resist

Lmao, was going to say the same thing earlier but decided it would prob be said soon enough

hotmustang95 · Jun 15, 2015

I'd say for now go with option 3 and rebuild and use what you got. I had to do this myself. This way the car is operational rather then just sitting around. In the mean time build another engine. The one you want. This way you have plenty of time/money to do it right and still enjoy the car.

hotmustang95 · Jun 15, 2015

SVTstang96 said:
Sorry I knew I was forgetting something. They are 94-98 cobra brakes front and rear. 13" twin piston up front and 11.65" single piston in the rear.

No I'm sorry. I'm a dumbass. You provided a pic of the wheels and the brakes are right there.