1997 Pacific Green Cobra build

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ForcFed93

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Looks good! Do you have any pics of the trans mounts?

These are the only pictures I took. I'm not great at taking pictures in the middle of projects. if you're referring to the cross member mounts (where it bolts to the frame rail) this picture from Stifflers shows it well.

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You can see how it has some webbing on the rear side that comes down from the mount. We cut that off, welded the entire mount to the frame rail, tucked the front of the SFC in there and welded it all up solid.
 
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ForcFed93

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After kicking around selling the Forgestar's for a while to get a cheaper, more common set of wheels so that I could powdercoat them, I decided to just order tires and keep them.

So I have a full set of Continental ExtremeContact Sports in 275/40R17 front and 285/40R17 in the rear on the way. They had to be ordered direct from Continental because of the unique rear size so it'll be the first week of December before I get them.

Took advantage of Discount Tire Directs deal this week of $100 off a set of 4 plus $60 off using your Discount Tire card, which I have. That's $40 off per tire!
 
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ForcFed93

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Got the tires mounted up and thrown on the Cobra over the weekend since it was nearly 60 out. Bad lighting, so you really can't see it all too well. I'll take better pictures in the spring when she's out of hibernation for the summer.

In case anyone is interested in weights. Stock wheel/tire (Fuzion Zri 245/45/17) weight 48.6lbs all around. The new wheel/tire combo in the front (17x9 FS with 275/40/17 Continentals) weighed 44.4lbs. Out back (17x10.5 FS with 285/40/17 Continentals) weight 48.4. So I saved 8.8lbs of rotating mass, mostly up front, and got a bigger, stickier tire to go with it.

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Burninriverdiver

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The wheels look great man! I don't see many green ones in my area, that color looks sweet!
 
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ForcFed93

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I always hear about people scoring these amazing deals on used parts. I'm always envious of those people because I can never seem to find such great deals. Today, however... Well, today was my day.

I scored a 1999 Cobra IRS, complete with the recall already done, a set of 1999 Cobra wheels with excellent tires, a brand new FRPP aluminum driveshaft, and a full set of Steeda IRS springs all for $775.

The IRS is all stock, but for the deal I got, I wasn't about to complain. The plan is to replace subframe bushings, control arm bushing, diff mount bushings, and POSSIBLY cross axis bushings. Anyone have any other suggestions (aside from gears/diff)?

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ForcFed93

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So I've got a few things on the way...

FTBR X-axis joint set
Prothane control arm bushings
Bilstein shocks for the IRS
Prothane subframe bushings
MM subframe bushing removal tool

Once I get all of that, I'll be ready to install. I'm going to hold off on the diff bushings for now. Let the bank account recuperate.
 
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ForcFed93

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No pictures, but I've got the IRS mostly torn down. Poly subframe bushings are installed. Awaiting control arm bushings to arrive to install those. Cross axis joints should be here tonight and I may get started on those.

Currently keeping my eyes peeled for a used IRS exhaust.

Also, anyone know what the going rate is on a complete stock Cobra 8.8 with 70k on it? My brother is buying up most of the rear suspension stuff for his Fox project, but the axle assembly itself I'll have to sell on my own. I'm going to weld the IRS brackets so I won't be able to convert back to the SRA in the future and will have no need to have it lying around. I was thinking $300 but after looking, it seems that might be too cheap.
 

Barner1

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Man, that's a clean car! You've done a great job on the build thus far. Keep up the nice work! :thumbsup:
 
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ForcFed93

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Cross axis joints installed, upper control arm bushings installed, one of the lowers is done and I'll finish the other tonight then start putting everything back together.

I messed up the threads on the rear toe links removing them from the knuckles, because I planned on replacing them anyway. Little did I know that they cost ~$65 each. I would've taken care not to damage them had I known that. Oh well, I went ahead and sprung for the MM toe link kit. Since the car will be lowered, it'll be better to use those anyway to correct bump steer geometry.

Also found a used Borla IRS cat back. It's an older version with the full body mufflers to keep it relatively quiet, which is how I prefer it. I'll do my best to polish it up before I install it.

I'm hoping to start working on removing the SRA and installing the IRS in the car the weekend of the 17th.
 

evilcw311

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Where’s the pics?!?! You know us lil brats only understand pics!!!! :)


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ForcFed93

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Where’s the pics?!?! You know us lil brats only understand pics!!!! :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My hands were completely black while I was working. I wasn't about to grab my phone to snap some pictures. I'll take some tonight. Plus my garage floor looks like a war zone with parts and tools scattered everywhere, dust and debris, as well as piles of rubber everywhere from drilling bushings.

On a side note, the bushing removal tools are absolutely necessary for this job.
 

evilcw311

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My hands were completely black while I was working. I wasn't about to grab my phone to snap some pictures. I'll take some tonight. Plus my garage floor looks like a war zone with parts and tools scattered everywhere, dust and debris, as well as piles of rubber everywhere from drilling bushings.

On a side note, the bushing removal tools are absolutely necessary for this job.

If your garage didn’t look like that we’d assume you paid someone to do the work like someone else does!!!! Lol


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ForcFed93

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Pictures!

This is what my garage looked like when I started this evening
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And I finished up the upper/lower control arm bushings today.
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FTBR cross axis joints. These things are expensive.
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Also, the aluminum DS
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And the Steeda IRS springs
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Waiting on the exhaust and the MM toe links. Then I'll be able to start the swap.
 
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ForcFed93

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So I have the swap about 90% complete. I'm waiting on low profile subframe bolts as my tires hit the current ones. May still need spacers after that, but I hope not. I literally did not take any pictures beyond when I removed the SRA as I was too dirty and frustrated.

SRA out. This took me literally about 1 hour to get to this point. I was shocked at how easy I could remove it, by myself no less.

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After that, I got the brake lines changed over. That was a pain. Mainly because I got a crap flaring tool from the parts store that kept slipping on the tubing. I cut off the original line, then put a 3/16" inverted flare tube nut onto it. I then split the line that runs to both sides right where the main line comes in. Then I got a 3/16" IF tee and put IF tube nuts on either side. Then I kept the standard bubble flare ends, which mate up to the factory IRS soft lines. (I'll get stainless eventually). I did have to bend the passenger side bracket under the frame rail a bit to get it to reach the hardline. Drivers side was perfect as is.

The front two subframe mounting points fought me hard. As did the rear two (currently just bolted in, going to my buddies with a lift and a welder to do them before I really drive it much). The driveshaft BARELY made it over the pinion nut. There's not much play, probably 3/8". What else.... Oh, the e-brake cables... I swapped my calipers from my SRA over to the IRS (they were already painted and I didn't want to do new pads/resurface the rotors cause they were near new) and the drivers side e-brake cable pretty much hits the lower caliper bolt. I thought the rear calipers were the same from the IRS to the SRA?? Major design flaw if they are. ABS lines were a breeze.

So, what's left is subframe bolts, eyeball alignment (new MM toe link kit), install exhaust, drive over to weld brackets, get pro alignment.

Speaking of exhaust, I got a used Borla cat back. Since it's cold and snowy, I'm in no rush to finish this. So I decided to take a crack at polishing the tailpipe sections of the exhaust.

It looked pretty much like this to start (this side still isn't done)

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My process was a 120 grit flapper wheel for the drill, then a 240 grit nylon abrasive wheel, then 400 grit sandpaper, then 600, then 1500, then metal polish with a dremel and buffer wheel. It didn't come out near as nice as some I've seen, but I do believe it'll still look really nice. All told, I have about 2.5 hours in to finish one side.

After the flapper wheel

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A bit more sanding

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And after 1500

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And after polishing

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Hopefully I'll finish up the other side soon.
 

lwarrior1016

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Great work man. That exhaust came out awesome. I love looking under the back of my car and seeing the pipes going across the bottom.

Im curious about the e brake cable hitting the bolt? I was also under the impression that the calipers were the same.
 
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ForcFed93

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My low profile rear subframe bolts are coming in today, so I'll be out in the garage getting those installed, as well as finishing up polishing the other tailpipe. I'll snap a picture of it when I'm out there.

After the exhaust is polished/installed, then it's wheels on and head over to weld the brackets. Maybe this weekend if the weather is nice...
 

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