1998 Fuel Pump

Discussion in '96-04 - 2V Specific' started by MustangGrl, Oct 1, 2015.

  1. MustangGrl

    MustangGrl New Member

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    So let me start by saying my 98 GT has roughly 170k on her and as far as I know pretty much everything is original.
    Person that had it before me was a punk that has so far lied about everything "he did" to the car soooo that's wonderful. I'm starting to get into real mods now and with the miles and the rough history we're planning on changing the fuel pump ASAP. However I read on another forum that they changed the type of fuel pump mid year in 98. (Forgive me I'm still learning about cars this is my first serious project and I've never taken any classes) so I got my build sheet and she was built 3/17/1998. Can anyone tell me 1. which type I would would need and 2. What brand/spec they would recommend for the below.

    Currently i have:
    CAI
    BBK 78 mm throttle body
    long tube headers
    BBK shorty off-road x pipe
    pypes violator mufflers
    exedy stage 2 clutch and shorty shifter
    245/45/17 Nitto 555 on the rear
    tune from Bama/American muscle

    what will be going on the car next week:
    31 spline ford racing carrier
    31 spline axles
    3.73 gears
    timkin bearings and all that good shit

    Going on this winter:
    PI intake
    PI heads that will be ported and polished
    COMP CAMS STAGE 2 XTREME ENERGY XE268H cams (springs and clips too)
     
  2. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    As far as I know all the 98 pumps were the same. The difference in the fuel system was return vs returnless. You can easily tell that by looking at the fuel lines and if you have 2 lines gong to the fuel rail then you have a return system. The difference in the 98 pumps, compared to the other years, was that they had 2 speeds. That means that you have to order pumps that are specific to the 98 year. As far as pump size, the stock pump would be enough to support what you are doing but it will not hurt to order one that is bigger to prepare for future mods, so you would be safe with a 255lph pump.
     
  3. MustangGrl

    MustangGrl New Member

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    The return / return less is what I meant. I guess the person on the other forum phrased it wrong lol

    Oh I forgot to add I'm planning on supercharging in the next couple of years.
    So this 255lph would be good for that?


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  4. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    So you got the answer to that then, cool. How much boost and how much power are you trying to get out of this thing? That will ultimately determine how much pump you need. If it is a stock shortblock with mild boost, probably the ~380hp range, I think the 255 pump will work but I would push it much further.
     
  5. MustangGrl

    MustangGrl New Member

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    Not sure yet as far as how much boost and all. I know which kit I'm going to get though.
    It's still got the factory block not planning on changing it unless I *have* to
    I want to see how much I can get out of her with the engine she came with.
    That being said everything's getting old and worn out now (doesn't even count miles anymore) so it's time to go through it this winter and see how her guts look lol

    Oh while I'm thinking of it
    Timing chain(s)/kits
    What the heck do I need for this engine cause I can't seem to find any straight info on it. I found a bunch of different ones on summit but the descriptions are so vague it's useless to read them most of the time


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  6. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Parts house can get you what you need. Just get a timing chain kit for your car. (1998 GT). It will all bolt up and fit correctly even with the new heads. I think I got my last set at auto zone. You can order them on ebay or from rock auto.
     
  7. MustangGrl

    MustangGrl New Member

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  8. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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  9. DropTopPony

    DropTopPony Administrator Staff Member Admin SN95 Supporter

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    Those are NPI Cams, you want the AH models which would be the 270AH for PI if "stage 2" is what you want.

    Comp used to have 3 for NPI and 3 for PI but now they combined them and made them all a stage.


    Here is a fuel pump kit for 98's from AM if you want to replace everything. I believe the SVT Focus pump works also.

    http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-fuel-pump-300lph-1998.html
     
  10. MustangGrl

    MustangGrl New Member

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    I bought these cams like 3 years ago they just haven't gone in yet. Are you saying they won't work with PI heads? Cause that would suck


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  11. DropTopPony

    DropTopPony Administrator Staff Member Admin SN95 Supporter

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    No they work just fine just not designed to take advantage of the PI head. They have less lift IIRC.
     
  12. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    I thought the npi heads like more lift than pi heads? I know pi valves are longer than npi valves.
     
  13. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    Pi heads love low lift. Lift like as the valve cracks off the seat...love. This is why the head flows so well. Any cylinder heads valve spends more time at any lift other than max lift. Those lifts are at scavenging and intake helmholtz resonance.....areas that make a pi intake and long tubes worth it.
     
  14. Nuttinbutcrumbs

    Nuttinbutcrumbs Active Member

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    Question. When y'all do the pi intake swap is that just the plastic lower y'all are replacing?
    OP: Fuel Pump- It really all boils down to realistic long-term goals and current budget. If your stock pump isn't bad then there's no reason to replace it as it will handle the power you'll be making, even with the pi heads I'd wager. However, if you think you'll realistically see an additional 100 rwhp gain in the near future and you have an extra $120 or so you could get the walboro gss340 255 lph pump now so you'll have it when and if the supercharger comes.
    A 255lph pump delivers about 410lb of fuel per hour so that's enough to feed about 750 crank hp with forced induction (assuming 0.55 BSFC) and 900 crank hp NA (assuming 0.45 BSFC). Just know that there won't be any performance gain with that pump at this time.
    http://www.cjponyparts.com/walbro-high-pressure-in-tank-fuel-pump-kit-255-lph-1985-1997/p/FPGSS340/ discount code cjppfr8
    No, I don't work for them I'm just a nice guy.
    All that being said, if you think you're gonna keep this car awhile I'd invest the money in having your 170k mi bottom rebuilt before I'd get the blower.

    Don't Sext and Drive.
     
  15. Wichers123

    Wichers123 Well-Known Member

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    If going boost then put in the largest in tank pump. Aeromotive 340lph or aem 320lph. I switched out my aeromotive for the aem as its e85 safe.
     
  16. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    A 170k mile modular is nothing. The engines are known to go many many miles. If op is keeping the boost low, the bottom end will be fine. I would do a compression check before and after the head swap and make sure all is well. If that checks out, I'd run it.
     
  17. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    170k is just about broke in
     
  18. Nuttinbutcrumbs

    Nuttinbutcrumbs Active Member

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    I know it, but if it was me and this was something that I thought might be hanging around for 100 years I'd kinda like to start the project with a "new" engine. That way you could drive it another 20 years if you wanted to and you wouldn't have to worry as much when it's time to add the power.
    If you're not thinking that you'll be making "block splitting power" then a stock rebuild would suffice.
    I'm not sure about with the modular's but a stock rebuilt bottom Windsor isn't all that expensive, it's less than a blower.


    Don't Sext and Drive.
     
  19. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    A set of $150 coyote rods along with a set of $500 forged pistons and youre good to go with a modular to 600rwhp. But seriously.....170k is just broke in and any good running modular can simply be rebuilt with little to no machine work.
     
  20. Nuttinbutcrumbs

    Nuttinbutcrumbs Active Member

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    I'm not being caddy. How about the rear-main, are they prone to leaks?



    Don't Sext and Drive.