1998 Fuel Pump

As far as I know all the 98 pumps were the same. The difference in the fuel system was return vs returnless. You can easily tell that by looking at the fuel lines and if you have 2 lines gong to the fuel rail then you have a return system. The difference in the 98 pumps, compared to the other years, was that they had 2 speeds. That means that you have to order pumps that are specific to the 98 year. As far as pump size, the stock pump would be enough to support what you are doing but it will not hurt to order one that is bigger to prepare for future mods, so you would be safe with a 255lph pump.

 

So you got the answer to that then, cool. How much boost and how much power are you trying to get out of this thing? That will ultimately determine how much pump you need. If it is a stock shortblock with mild boost, probably the ~380hp range, I think the 255 pump will work but I would push it much further.

 

Parts house can get you what you need. Just get a timing chain kit for your car. (1998 GT). It will all bolt up and fit correctly even with the new heads. I think I got my last set at auto zone. You can order them on ebay or from rock auto.

 

That looks like it! It has the iron tensioners and the guides with the steel backs. Those are the pieces you want.

 

I thought the npi heads like more lift than pi heads? I know pi valves are longer than npi valves.

 

Pi heads love low lift. Lift like as the valve cracks off the seat...love. This is why the head flows so well. Any cylinder heads valve spends more time at any lift other than max lift. Those lifts are at scavenging and intake helmholtz resonance.....areas that make a pi intake and long tubes worth it.

 

Question. When y'all do the pi intake swap is that just the plastic lower y'all are replacing?
OP: Fuel Pump- It really all boils down to realistic long-term goals and current budget. If your stock pump isn't bad then there's no reason to replace it as it will handle the power you'll be making, even with the pi heads I'd wager. However, if you think you'll realistically see an additional 100 rwhp gain in the near future and you have an extra $120 or so you could get the walboro gss340 255 lph pump now so you'll have it when and if the supercharger comes.
A 255lph pump delivers about 410lb of fuel per hour so that's enough to feed about 750 crank hp with forced induction (assuming 0.55 BSFC) and 900 crank hp NA (assuming 0.45 BSFC). Just know that there won't be any performance gain with that pump at this time.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/walbro-high-pressure-in-tank-fuel-pump-kit-255-lph-1985-1997/p/FPGSS340/ discount code cjppfr8
No, I don't work for them I'm just a nice guy.
All that being said, if you think you're gonna keep this car awhile I'd invest the money in having your 170k mi bottom rebuilt before I'd get the blower.

Don't Sext and Drive.

 

If going boost then put in the largest in tank pump. Aeromotive 340lph or aem 320lph. I switched out my aeromotive for the aem as its e85 safe.

 

A 170k mile modular is nothing. The engines are known to go many many miles. If op is keeping the boost low, the bottom end will be fine. I would do a compression check before and after the head swap and make sure all is well. If that checks out, I'd run it.

 

170k is just about broke in

 

I know it, but if it was me and this was something that I thought might be hanging around for 100 years I'd kinda like to start the project with a "new" engine. That way you could drive it another 20 years if you wanted to and you wouldn't have to worry as much when it's time to add the power.
If you're not thinking that you'll be making "block splitting power" then a stock rebuild would suffice.
I'm not sure about with the modular's but a stock rebuilt bottom Windsor isn't all that expensive, it's less than a blower.


Don't Sext and Drive.

 

A set of $150 coyote rods along with a set of $500 forged pistons and youre good to go with a modular to 600rwhp. But seriously.....170k is just broke in and any good running modular can simply be rebuilt with little to no machine work.

 

I'm not being caddy. How about the rear-main, are they prone to leaks?



Don't Sext and Drive.