07GtS197
Well-Known Member
Did you swap heads? I didn’t know the oil fill was slightly different between the Windsor and Romeo. I don’t see it making a difference though since both were used in the bullitt.
200,000 mile GT build
- Thread starter Akurma
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Akurma
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To be honest I dont mind the silver control arms. they do kind of pop out if you're looking but it doesn't bother me. I am just happy that UPR had great customer service and even offered to replace them for me since I bought the K-member years ago and only got around to installing it last year
Nope still Windsor 13/14 bolt valve covers. Now you got me thinking about it lol. I wonder why my oil fill cap isn't like the fill cap on my original 99GT motor? They're both Windsor head motors? The 01+ cars had the oil fill cap almost flush with the valve cover. whereas the 99-early01 cars the oil fill cap sticks up two inches or so like pictured below
Notice passenger side oil fill cap nearly flush
Now notice how it sticks up about two inches or so? I think since it sticks up so high it would interfere with the intake tube with the Bullitt manifold
Its a simple extension tube that locks into the cover much like the cap does and the tube is removable but iirc it damages how it locks in when removed.
07GtS197
Well-Known Member
What he said. The valve covers are the same except for the number of bolts, pcv mounting and the angle of the vacuum nipple on the drivers side valve cover.
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Akurma
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Last week I ordered a 4v alternator and conversion wire last week. Today I took advantage of the "warmer" PA weather and took the intake manifold off and began messing around with the Bullitt manifold. Ran into my first issue... as expected.
Turns out the 4v alternator is slightly thicker on the two lower mounting points, not by much (about 5/16) but by enough to be an issue. It is just thick enough to not clear the Procharger idler pulley standoffs? i dont know what to call them. the first picture below will show what I am talking about. Naturally my first thought was to just shave the alternator mount down just a bit. I dont see why I cant do this but id rather replace the pulley standoff with a shorter one if possible. this way I dont always have to shave the alternator when it needs a replacement... I went through four of them in my GT since I got it in 2013 lol. Needless to say I reached out to procharger support so we'll see what they say.
Also as someone mentioned before, it does look like the 4v alternator case is actually smaller in depth than the 2v, by quite a bit. I placed them side by side on the ground to see. I Hope that this eliminates the P1SC pulley interference issue.
Turns out the 4v alternator is slightly thicker on the two lower mounting points, not by much (about 5/16) but by enough to be an issue. It is just thick enough to not clear the Procharger idler pulley standoffs? i dont know what to call them. the first picture below will show what I am talking about. Naturally my first thought was to just shave the alternator mount down just a bit. I dont see why I cant do this but id rather replace the pulley standoff with a shorter one if possible. this way I dont always have to shave the alternator when it needs a replacement... I went through four of them in my GT since I got it in 2013 lol. Needless to say I reached out to procharger support so we'll see what they say.
Also as someone mentioned before, it does look like the 4v alternator case is actually smaller in depth than the 2v, by quite a bit. I placed them side by side on the ground to see. I Hope that this eliminates the P1SC pulley interference issue.
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Akurma
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ttocs
Post Whore
if there is an alternator specialty place in town I would stop by there and ask them what they recommend.
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Akurma
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If Procharger doesn't have a idler pulley shaft/standoff that will work I'll see if i cant find a local CNC shop that could replicate the one i have and just make it 5/16 shorter. But looking on BruteSpeed's website it looks like they have a few different idler shafts
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Akurma
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Back with an update after hibernating during the Pennsylvania winter
I got around to installing the Bullitt Intake manifold! It wasn't terrible to do I tried to take as many pictures as I could to document what is different during the installation process.
The first difference is the coolant crossover pipe that runs under the intake manifold in the V of the block. The factory Ford pipe is a bent metal pipe. The Bullitt cars had a specific crossover pipe and its been long discontinued. I opted to get a 3ft section heater core hose (5/8 dia) and routed it from the nipple on the back of the water pump to exit on the passenger side. I tried the driver side exit and the hose just kept getting pinched by the intake manifold and the cylinder head. Because I am paranoid of it leaking coolant, i double clamped the section of hose that slides over the water pump nipple, fingers crossed it doesn't leak.
From there it was time to set the Bullitt intake manifold in place. Let me tell you that thing is heavier than it looks! I did have to remove the regular GT/2v EGR tube for install as it was preventing me from getting the intake to sit correctly. I am still not sure if im going to keep the EGR system or not as tuners in my area dont want to mess with EGR deleted cars now. And of course the Bullitt has a specific tube, but ill cross that bridge when I get there.
Once the EGR tube was out of the way the manifold dropped into place. Just had to watch the coolant hose to make sure it wasn't getting pinched.
In addition to figuring out the EGR tube issue, if I decide to keep the EGR system I'll also need to figure out a way to mount the vacuum solenoid and the DPFE sensor as you guessed it, the Bullitt's had a specific bracket for them. Not too worried about it though.
I did get a chance to messed with the throttle cable, but more on in another post. I put the Bullitt intake on to test fit everything and I cant believe JLT is really charging what they charge for a piece of PVC pipe with some paint and a sticker on it, glad the guy included it with the intake manifold. Also glad to finally see this come together!
I got around to installing the Bullitt Intake manifold! It wasn't terrible to do I tried to take as many pictures as I could to document what is different during the installation process.
The first difference is the coolant crossover pipe that runs under the intake manifold in the V of the block. The factory Ford pipe is a bent metal pipe. The Bullitt cars had a specific crossover pipe and its been long discontinued. I opted to get a 3ft section heater core hose (5/8 dia) and routed it from the nipple on the back of the water pump to exit on the passenger side. I tried the driver side exit and the hose just kept getting pinched by the intake manifold and the cylinder head. Because I am paranoid of it leaking coolant, i double clamped the section of hose that slides over the water pump nipple, fingers crossed it doesn't leak.
From there it was time to set the Bullitt intake manifold in place. Let me tell you that thing is heavier than it looks! I did have to remove the regular GT/2v EGR tube for install as it was preventing me from getting the intake to sit correctly. I am still not sure if im going to keep the EGR system or not as tuners in my area dont want to mess with EGR deleted cars now. And of course the Bullitt has a specific tube, but ill cross that bridge when I get there.
Once the EGR tube was out of the way the manifold dropped into place. Just had to watch the coolant hose to make sure it wasn't getting pinched.
In addition to figuring out the EGR tube issue, if I decide to keep the EGR system I'll also need to figure out a way to mount the vacuum solenoid and the DPFE sensor as you guessed it, the Bullitt's had a specific bracket for them. Not too worried about it though.
I did get a chance to messed with the throttle cable, but more on in another post. I put the Bullitt intake on to test fit everything and I cant believe JLT is really charging what they charge for a piece of PVC pipe with some paint and a sticker on it, glad the guy included it with the intake manifold. Also glad to finally see this come together!
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07GtS197
Well-Known Member
Be careful with how your coolant lines are set up. They are inlet specific and the inlet side has a restrictor so it doesn’t build too much pressure at high rpm’s and burst.
^ this!!!
Dont make the mistake i did and run without the restrictor orfice. I popped 2 hoses before i figured it out.
The old original hose from the factory had one. The hose was old and gave up and i simply replaced it with what worked from the parts store. I dont remember why i just didnt replace with original type. Maybe it was a discontinued item or it was to expensive or maybe cause mine is swapped 5.4l and the hose is a tangled mess, but unknowningly about the factory restrictor, I got smart on the 3rd hose and made an orfice that slipped into the hose. Used a clamp to keep it in place. By then it was to late because i had to drive the car 10miles with no coolant and the head bolts gave up from the heat causing blown gaskets. Get the orfice!
Dont make the mistake i did and run without the restrictor orfice. I popped 2 hoses before i figured it out.
The old original hose from the factory had one. The hose was old and gave up and i simply replaced it with what worked from the parts store. I dont remember why i just didnt replace with original type. Maybe it was a discontinued item or it was to expensive or maybe cause mine is swapped 5.4l and the hose is a tangled mess, but unknowningly about the factory restrictor, I got smart on the 3rd hose and made an orfice that slipped into the hose. Used a clamp to keep it in place. By then it was to late because i had to drive the car 10miles with no coolant and the head bolts gave up from the heat causing blown gaskets. Get the orfice!
Gregomatic
Active Member
I just gotta ask, what did you make the restrictor out of, and how big did you make the orfice???
(Fabricators like this stuff.)
Its call a heater core resistor.
I made mine from aluminum. Just a simple plug with a through hole. I dont remember what size i made the hole....i suck.
I made mine from aluminum. Just a simple plug with a through hole. I dont remember what size i made the hole....i suck.
Gregomatic
Active Member
I was wondering if it was as simple as machining it from the bottom of a soda can or as exquisite as turning it from billet.
And I figured there would be some science behind how big the hole needed to be also. Sounds like the situation isn't as finicky as I figured.
Too bad the head bolts/gasket didn't last long enough to see how well your fabricated part worked.
And I figured there would be some science behind how big the hole needed to be also. Sounds like the situation isn't as finicky as I figured.
Too bad the head bolts/gasket didn't last long enough to see how well your fabricated part worked.
Gregomatic
Active Member
WHAT, pray tell, is it about the THIRD occurrence that magically thumps us in the head??
Luckily I figured things out BY the third hose.
V6 owners may sympathize with my experience.
I must not have a restrictor in my coolant system (besides the T-stat).
I was still learning about my car and had never really beat on it (except before I bought it and stress tested it. 2nd gear scratch was impressive enough it sold me on it).
Twice I faced a predicament that forced me to lay into it hard...like I was racing for a pink slip.
Both times BLAM, and I'm driving through a cloud of green mist.
What I figured out (sixers will relate) is that the rad hose that passes between the AC clutch face and the coolant reservoir expands exponentially with high rpm's to the point it balloons up against the spinning clutch face, instantly chafing a slice into the hot over pressurized hose.
A simple zip tie to secure it to the top brace of the coolant res kept me from blowing another one. Fortunately I was spared from blowing a third before figuring it out.
Luckily I figured things out BY the third hose.
V6 owners may sympathize with my experience.
I must not have a restrictor in my coolant system (besides the T-stat).
I was still learning about my car and had never really beat on it (except before I bought it and stress tested it. 2nd gear scratch was impressive enough it sold me on it).
Twice I faced a predicament that forced me to lay into it hard...like I was racing for a pink slip.
Both times BLAM, and I'm driving through a cloud of green mist.
What I figured out (sixers will relate) is that the rad hose that passes between the AC clutch face and the coolant reservoir expands exponentially with high rpm's to the point it balloons up against the spinning clutch face, instantly chafing a slice into the hot over pressurized hose.
A simple zip tie to secure it to the top brace of the coolant res kept me from blowing another one. Fortunately I was spared from blowing a third before figuring it out.
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Akurma
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Yes i wont forget that little restrictor! have heard tons of bad expectances of people forgetting to use it when replacing the heater core hoses. I already have the restrictor just have to slip it into the new hose. If i remember correctly the restrictor goes on the hose that is closest to the passenger side, the one with the larger diameter. I still have my factory one to double check. I ordered the same one from LMR
Install the restrictor in the hose end on the engine side to prevent hose bursting.
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Akurma
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Knocked out a bunch of small things. Nothing super exciting but needed to be done.
Swapped fuel rails and 42# injectors over to the ones included with my Bullitt intake. Not really sure what the difference is as they are identical except for the fact that my 99GT rail has two rubber cross over hoses and the Bullitt one has just one. Im not sure this is needed and i believe you the second crossover would fit the Bullitt manifold. Also messed around with the coolant hose that runs from the water pump to the heater core. I routed it a different way than i had originally. The way I have it ran pictured below I think is the best way to do it as it is free to move around a tiny bit and not be pinched by something. My only concern is the hard edges of the cylinder head might wear a hole into the line. I think I will pick up a small section of larger diameter hose and sleeve the line in order to add a little extra protection to that area. I also have a lead on an OEM coolant pipe so we'll see if that lead pulls through!
I got lucky and found a used Bullitt EGR tube on eBay. I heavily overpaid ($60) for it but it made life a lot easier. I figured I would post a side by side picture of the two tubes as i had a hell of a time finding anything about the EGR tube online. It is very similar to the regular GT tube, the one end is just bent differently. I also noticed that "19401A" is stamped into the tube by the EGR, not sure if that is a part number?
Does anyone need a brand new GT EGR tube?
Changed the upper radiator hose out to the 01-04 hose. Reason being is the 01-04 hose is bent slightly differently and is also an inch or so longer. I needed the extra length to clear the Procharger. It's still tight and is resting on the headunit. I'll keep an eye on it and lengthen it if needed. not sure if it being in direct contact with the Procharger headunit will effect heat soak or anything but we shall see.
On the topic of coolant hoses. In my last post we got on the topic of the heater core reducer/restrictor. I believe @07GtS197 said that it goes on the inlet of the heater core. which would be the hose that runs from the water pump, under the intake manifold and over to the heater core correct? The reason I ask is because I still have my original heat core hoses and the bigger hose, the one that goes from heater core to the actual intake manifold on the back passenger side is the hose that has the restrictor in it on my car? It also has a band clamp on it to hold it in place. I have a cheap borescope and decided to snake the hose and see what it looked like in there. And somehow I managed to get rubber to rust. Should I leave it like this or pull the restrictor out and put one in the hose that runs from under the intake manifold to the heater core?
Next up I plan to mess with the vacuum lines, wiring harness, power steering lines and intercooler piping.
Swapped fuel rails and 42# injectors over to the ones included with my Bullitt intake. Not really sure what the difference is as they are identical except for the fact that my 99GT rail has two rubber cross over hoses and the Bullitt one has just one. Im not sure this is needed and i believe you the second crossover would fit the Bullitt manifold. Also messed around with the coolant hose that runs from the water pump to the heater core. I routed it a different way than i had originally. The way I have it ran pictured below I think is the best way to do it as it is free to move around a tiny bit and not be pinched by something. My only concern is the hard edges of the cylinder head might wear a hole into the line. I think I will pick up a small section of larger diameter hose and sleeve the line in order to add a little extra protection to that area. I also have a lead on an OEM coolant pipe so we'll see if that lead pulls through!
I got lucky and found a used Bullitt EGR tube on eBay. I heavily overpaid ($60) for it but it made life a lot easier. I figured I would post a side by side picture of the two tubes as i had a hell of a time finding anything about the EGR tube online. It is very similar to the regular GT tube, the one end is just bent differently. I also noticed that "19401A" is stamped into the tube by the EGR, not sure if that is a part number?
Does anyone need a brand new GT EGR tube?
Changed the upper radiator hose out to the 01-04 hose. Reason being is the 01-04 hose is bent slightly differently and is also an inch or so longer. I needed the extra length to clear the Procharger. It's still tight and is resting on the headunit. I'll keep an eye on it and lengthen it if needed. not sure if it being in direct contact with the Procharger headunit will effect heat soak or anything but we shall see.
On the topic of coolant hoses. In my last post we got on the topic of the heater core reducer/restrictor. I believe @07GtS197 said that it goes on the inlet of the heater core. which would be the hose that runs from the water pump, under the intake manifold and over to the heater core correct? The reason I ask is because I still have my original heat core hoses and the bigger hose, the one that goes from heater core to the actual intake manifold on the back passenger side is the hose that has the restrictor in it on my car? It also has a band clamp on it to hold it in place. I have a cheap borescope and decided to snake the hose and see what it looked like in there. And somehow I managed to get rubber to rust. Should I leave it like this or pull the restrictor out and put one in the hose that runs from under the intake manifold to the heater core?
Next up I plan to mess with the vacuum lines, wiring harness, power steering lines and intercooler piping.
07GtS197
Well-Known Member
Is the coolant hose from the manifold to the heater core the same as the gt? Leave it as is. However your original lines were routed keep it the same. I don’t think switching the routing will do anything but keep it the way it was and keep the restrictor.
weendoggy
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This may or may not help, but it's a picture of my stock '02 setup.
