200,000 mile GT build

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Akurma

Akurma

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I miraculously found someone on Marketplace parting out a totaled Bullitt that was willing to part with the throttle cable. I tried getting some of the other manifold specific items like the coolant tube that runs under and some brackets. However they were addiment about keeping those together. Oh well they got me to heavily overpay($140) for a damn cable yet here we are. Honestly considering taking it to a local shop and seeing if they can replicate it and start selling them.

Anyway, i messed with the cable a bit and it works which is great, one less thing to worry about. I did take some comparison photos on the three throttle cables I have for future reference. 1999 GT on top, 1997 Cobra in the middle and Bullitt on the bottom. It is worth nothing that the 97 cable would have be able to get to work with the pedal mod.

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Mocked up the vacuum lines, and it hate them. it clutters things up especially since they aren't routed like they were meant to be so they look out of place. Then there is the DPFE sensor and vacuum solenoid that I need to remount. The bracket for the regular 2v manifold doesn't really work on the Bullitt because they had a specific bracket. Not a huge deal, worst case ill make up a bracket that works. I have an idea of how to mount it pictured below. I'll see what I can do about these issues later, open to ideas!

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On the plus side, i was worried about the alternator hitting the P1SC pulley. I now have even more room than I did before so that's a relief!

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Is the coolant hose from the manifold to the heater core the same as the gt? Leave it as is. However your original lines were routed keep it the same. I don’t think switching the routing will do anything but keep it the way it was and keep the restrictor.

This may or may not help, but it's a picture of my stock '02 setup.
View attachment 15940



This picture helped! this is exactly how my GT was set up before so I'll leave it just how it was. Oddly enough I learned that some GT's had "heated PCV" systems?! Only reason I now know this is because I was trying to figure out what the hell these two connections where for in the Bullitt manifold. One right next to the coolant temp sensor and the other back by the plenum. After some digging it turns outs some of these bullitts and other 4.6L's came with a heated pcv setup, pictured here. Im probably just going to plug the one by the coolant temp sensor with another temp sensor and just leave it unplugged. The one by the plenum I imagine i can just put vacuum caps on?


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07GtS197

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I’ve never seen a mustang with a heated pcv valve. My 09 P71 has one but it’s electric. Don’t know why it even has one being a Florida car. You’re making some good progress. Keep it up. I thought about swapping to a bullitt intake but it looks like the little things will get the better of me knowing my luck lol.
 

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Nice progress. Looking forward to seeing it wrapped up
 
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Akurma

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Just going to jump right into it


Ended up pulling the intake manifold back off. I kept thinking that the rubber coolant hose i ran underneath would rub on something over time and form a leak. I picked up some hose heat shield stuff and wrapped it around the hose. Who knows if that will actually help but for peace of mind I went ahead and did it. Also tripled checked that nothing got dropped down into the intake valves while i was in there.

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After fighting with the intercooler setup I think i found a pipe routing that I am ok with. Ended up buying some extra couplers and pipes to make it work to my liking but i think it turned out alright. I also ended up ditching the JLT intake tube for a BBK intake that I had sitting around from my old 1997 Cobra. Reason being is, with the intercooler piping the BBK unit just worked better. I will eventually get the upper intake piping powder coated. But for now as long as it works I'm happy.

Hard to see but my MAF is located in the passenger side fender area. I do still need to get a Tial 50mm flange welded on. I don't know exactly where to have it welded to. Currently thinking either on the second to last picture, on the section of pipe coming directly off the P1SC or on the U-bend before it enters the intercooler. I am leaning towards the pipe right off the blower. Open to ideas.

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Tracked down someone who was sort of parting out a Bullitt. Got him to sell me the bracket for the DPFE & vacuum solenoid and gave me some of the vacuum line for the vacuum solenoid. Made life so much easier. Was a bit of a pain to install simply because it was up against the firewall, but removing the EGR Tube gave me a enough room.

Including a picture comparing the two different brackets as I didn't find a single picture of this bracket online. I did have to drill out the two mounting holes just a tad larger as the bolts holes and bolts themselves were too small for the bolts that were for the regular GT DPFE & Vacuum solenoid bracket. This may not always be required as I am thinking this may be one of those Windsor vs Romeo head differences and I think Bullitt's have Romeo heads?

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Going to mess around with the vacuum lines as they look terrible. I also need to T into them for the Boost gauge and the BOV. Open to suggestions as to where I should T into for them.

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Hoping to be getting more things checked off my list in the next coming weeks. Going out to Ford Nationals In Carlisle PA with my 1965 Mustang and am super bummed that I didn't finish this car in time for that event. I set a goal to have the car running and roadworthy by the end of June... We'll see how that goes!
 

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Bullitts had both windsors and Romeo’s along with their gt counterparts. The studs being different sizes is interesting.

Looks like it’s coming along nicely. It’ll be driveable pretty soon.
 

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Sweeeet. I would put the bov on the U pipe before the intercooler. I had mine on the pipe going from the procharger to that U pipe. So the U pipe would be good
 
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Crossed a couple more things off the seemingly never ending list!

Messed around with the vacuum lines for the EGR stuff. cleaned it up a bit. It's not perfect but i think it looks better than how it did. (first picture below.) Also tapped into a section of Vacuum hose for the boost gauge. I didn't even have to splice anything. there was a section of vacuum line that had a plastic connector for the two soft ends of line to connect to. I just removed that plastic connector and popped the T-connector in it's place! love when it is really that simple! I opted to run the tubing through the hole for the hood cable in order to avoid drilling any unnecessary holes. Man the tubing that Autometer gives you is terrible!! I'm going to swap it out for some different tubing.

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Also started mocking up an oil catch can. I initially was going to just run breather filters on each valve cover but heard that can coat the engine bay with oil residue. So i bought a cheap catch can that seems to be a Mishimoto knock off. Again want to avoid drilling and unnecessary holes and mocked up a bracket on the passenger side using the ground wire bolt. plenty of room to route houses.

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Also took the driver side manifold off. I was amazed at how quick i was able to do this with a tubular K-member! took me all of about 10 minutes! The reason i took it off was because the "downpipe" wouldn't fit correctly as mentioned a few pages back. Took it down to a exhaust shop and they were able to widen it up a bit and now it seems to fit nicely. I think i need to pick up some longer bolts just to be safe. Also mocked up where I want to add a Wideband sensor bung. This seemed like the best location that allowed enough room to fit a sensor and also wasn't sitting on the bottom side of the exhaust which AEM says to avoid.

Dropped the exhaust and intercooler U pipe off to have flanges welded on to them. Hopefully they're back soon!

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Sweeeet. I would put the bov on the U pipe before the intercooler. I had mine on the pipe going from the procharger to that U pipe. So the U pipe would be good

That's exactly where i ended up having them weld the flange to!
 
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Akurma

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Chipping away!

I have to make another trip to the fabricator as I noticed the passenger side downpipe for the X-pipe has a hairline crack around the flange. Always something with this car :rolleyes: Glad I found it now, guess that's why i always had a CEL for a o2 sensor code.

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Got the Tial 50mm mounted and the vacuum line ran. Love how it looks and hopefully I'll love how it sounds! For the vacuum line i kept it as hidden as possible to avoid cluttering up the engine bay. I ran it with the wire harness that runs right above the top of the radiator. and then down to the AC line and followed that up to the vacuum port on the intake manifold.

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Fiddled around with the oil catch can. I really didn't like how it looked on an L bracket by the passenger headlight. Plus it cluttered up the engine bay with hoses running all over. So I tested a bunch of areas and landed on one that I think is perfect. I bent the mounting tab flat and widened the hole a bit and mounted it onto the top of the alternator right behind the P1SC pulley. My only concern for this spot is how close it is to the pulley. there is a good 1/4" or so of clearance between the can and the pully bolt. Worst case I'll see if i can raise the catch can up higher to bring it further away from the pulley.

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Started mounting the gauges that I'll be running. I have two AEM X-Series gauges and one Autometer mechanical boost gauge. The two AEM gauges I'm going to place in the bezel that surrounds the cluster. And the mechanical boost gauge in an autometer column pod I hate the fact that there will be two screws visible but mounting options are limited on these cars unfortunately. Honestly im shocked at how cheap these autometer gauge pods are made. the plastic feels very cheap. they are not color matched to the Charcoal interior. But again, its the only option that liked the placement of.

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Side note - the AEM X-series gauges are very thin in depth, i was unaware of this I just wanted the larger screen. As a result of how thin they are the little plastic mounting bracket they give you doesn't really work with this gauge pod bezel. If you flip it around the gauge closest to the headlight switch (picture 1 below) will work just fine. But the gauge closest to the HVAC controls (picture 2) doesn't really work. I was able to get one of the nuts threaded on finger tight. we'll see how that holds.

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Besides that I ran the wideband sensor and oil pressure harness through the shifter ring grommet. I just cut an X in the rubber and slipped the wires through to the corresponding sensors under neither the car. I shifted through all the gears and the wires didn't get in the way. I wish the harness for the oil pressure was a foot or so longer but i made it work. The hardness for the wideband sensor was WAY too long. I could have mounted a gauge in the trunk with the amount of wire they give you for that. But I'd rather have too much and not enough. i just zip tied it in a loop under the dash.

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And finally, I test fitted the front bumper to check intercooler piping clearance. Everything fits nicely except for the fact that I have to either delete the fog lights or trim the mounting bracket for them. Not too worried about it just figured I would mention it.

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Akurma

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Crossed off some of the little things on the list this weekend. Forgot to take pictures of a lot of it.


Got the gauges wires up. first time doing this and was intimidated but honestly was super simple. Bought a couple of those "add a circuit" harnesses, some wire terminal ends and some mini fuses. Was a lot easier than I expected it to be. I put the add a circuits into the fuses for the convertible top & radio as these both had power with the key on engine off. Obviously my car isn't a convertible but oddly enough there was a 15amp fuse in the slot. Thinking that may be for the sunroof? who knows. then i just put the grounds in the same place as the factory ground behind the fuse panel.

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Still have to finish cable managing the harnesses for the gauges but wanted to see that they worked before I tucked everything out of sight. Everything seems to be working with no blown fuses. Only concern is that the oil pressure gauge reads 30 psi with the engine off and there is literally no oil in the engine at all. That is a little concerning but i am not sure if this is some sort of default/demo when the gauge is first turned on? Anyone have any experience with these AEM X-series gauges?
 
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Akurma

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Finished up the catch can setup. I like how it turned out, just hope it doesn't cause any issues being so close to the P1SC pulley bolt. Guess we sill see.

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Also figured out that at some point whoever I bought this SLP X-pipe off of gutted one of the catalytic converters... just one, not both lol. So i called SLP, who apparently have been bought out by Roush? and they sold me a catalytic converter. Was a lot cheaper than I expected and they were the only ones who would sell me just one. Years ago i would have just ran it catless but they are really cracking down on emission stuff around me and i just dont feel like dealing with it.


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Like the progress!

Gauges look great


thanks guys!!
 
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Akurma

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You are doing great with this build thread! Very detailed and pics....very nice read!

Thank you! I always liked reading detailed forum posts. Even if its not something that relates to what i'm doing. So i try my best to keep my posts detailed or interesting
 
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Another quality weekend in the garage


finished up a lot of the small things that don't take a lot of time but it all adds up. First up I trimmed the fog light housing brackets (see second picture below for area I trimmed.) I had to cut a tiny bit off of the back of them as they were hitting the intercooler piping on both sides. Took some measurements and sawed them off. I was going to just keep the original fog lights until i realized just how horrible they looked.. Also new fog lights are incredibly cheap so why not.

They fit well and look nice, as long as they dont fog up inside I'll be happy. But now it makes me realized just how shot the headlights are too

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while I had the bumper off I finished up the power steering cooler I pieced together. I was going to just loop the lines and tuck them out of the way somewhere. However Ford put that sad excuse of a "cooler" there for a reason I guess and I do plan to Autocross this car a handful of times a year. So I figured something is better than nothing. After some trial and error I settled on this set up. I used a Derale 13220 trans cooler. I used this one specifically because it had mounting stand offs built into the cooler to bolt it somewhere. I had some of the universal mounting strips laying around and it just fit perfectly bolted to the underside of the Intercooler mounts. bolted everything together and then spliced the hoses to the cooler.

I know this isn't the best location for airflow, but I really hate the look of those coolers that are push pinned into a radiator/condenser or whatever. I will keep an eye on temperatures of the steering fluid and check it to see if its boiling over and adjust if needed. I also want to keep an eye on the universal mount strips I used. They are kind of flimsy and if pushed on. Not sure if wind forces will bend them overtime. May have to make up an actual bracket for it later down the road. For now I am happy with it.

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I adjusted the MAF sensor housing. Didn't like the way the wiring and all was routed. While I was in there I finished up the wheel liners.

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Finished up the coolant hoses for the Bullitt intake manifold. I picked up a stainless steel 3/8npt hex head plug for the port by the temp sensor. mounted flush and is out of the way of the catch can hoses. I also picked up a stainless steel 90* elbow as I sort of cut the coolant hose that runs under the manifold a tad short as it kept kinking when i went to connect it to the heater core. Lesson learned lol. So instead of uninstalling the manifold i opted to see if a 90* fitting would work. It seems to be ok. I ended up cutting a section of the stock 2v heater core hose and splicing them together. Only issue is that it is resting against the stud on the firewall for the AC drier. May wrap a small section of heat shield material over it for added protection.

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While I was messing with the coolant hoses at the firewall I noticed that two of the COP plugs kept coming loose. I fiddled with them for a bit until i realized that one of them the lock tab was missing and the other for whatever reason simply would not lock in place even with the lock tab. I was annoyed that I didn't catch this earlier when i did other harness repair and stumbled upon a video that showed you how to repin these connectors. So instead of cutting and splicing new ones in I was able to repin them to new connectors! Was super easy to do and cheap!

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And last but not least! I got in contact with AEM about why my oil pressure gauge was reading 30psi with the car off and no oil in the engine. They determined that I somehow was sent a pressure sensor for a boost gauge and not an oil pressure gauge. No idea how that happens but they fixed it! they are sending me a replacement sensor free of charge. All I had do to was show them proof that I destroyed the sensor I got. Little weird for such a small item I'm surprised they didn't want it back but to each their own I guess. Broke out the sledgehammer can beat the connector apart.

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Venompower

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Chipping away!

I have to make another trip to the fabricator as I noticed the passenger side downpipe for the X-pipe has a hairline crack around the flange. Always something with this car :rolleyes: Glad I found it now, guess that's why i always had a CEL for a o2 sensor code.

View attachment 18072

Got the Tial 50mm mounted and the vacuum line ran. Love how it looks and hopefully I'll love how it sounds! For the vacuum line i kept it as hidden as possible to avoid cluttering up the engine bay. I ran it with the wire harness that runs right above the top of the radiator. and then down to the AC line and followed that up to the vacuum port on the intake manifold.

View attachment 18073

View attachment 18074

View attachment 18075

Fiddled around with the oil catch can. I really didn't like how it looked on an L bracket by the passenger headlight. Plus it cluttered up the engine bay with hoses running all over. So I tested a bunch of areas and landed on one that I think is perfect. I bent the mounting tab flat and widened the hole a bit and mounted it onto the top of the alternator right behind the P1SC pulley. My only concern for this spot is how close it is to the pulley. there is a good 1/4" or so of clearance between the can and the pully bolt. Worst case I'll see if i can raise the catch can up higher to bring it further away from the pulley.

View attachment 18076

View attachment 18077

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Started mounting the gauges that I'll be running. I have two AEM X-Series gauges and one Autometer mechanical boost gauge. The two AEM gauges I'm going to place in the bezel that surrounds the cluster. And the mechanical boost gauge in an autometer column pod I hate the fact that there will be two screws visible but mounting options are limited on these cars unfortunately. Honestly im shocked at how cheap these autometer gauge pods are made. the plastic feels very cheap. they are not color matched to the Charcoal interior. But again, its the only option that liked the placement of.

View attachment 18079


Side note - the AEM X-series gauges are very thin in depth, i was unaware of this I just wanted the larger screen. As a result of how thin they are the little plastic mounting bracket they give you doesn't really work with this gauge pod bezel. If you flip it around the gauge closest to the headlight switch (picture 1 below) will work just fine. But the gauge closest to the HVAC controls (picture 2) doesn't really work. I was able to get one of the nuts threaded on finger tight. we'll see how that holds.

View attachment 18080

View attachment 18081

Besides that I ran the wideband sensor and oil pressure harness through the shifter ring grommet. I just cut an X in the rubber and slipped the wires through to the corresponding sensors under neither the car. I shifted through all the gears and the wires didn't get in the way. I wish the harness for the oil pressure was a foot or so longer but i made it work. The hardness for the wideband sensor was WAY too long. I could have mounted a gauge in the trunk with the amount of wire they give you for that. But I'd rather have too much and not enough. i just zip tied it in a loop under the dash.

View attachment 18082


And finally, I test fitted the front bumper to check intercooler piping clearance. Everything fits nicely except for the fact that I have to either delete the fog lights or trim the mounting bracket for them. Not too worried about it just figured I would mention it.

View attachment 18083
Glad to see I'm not the only one with the intercooler that looks tilted lol
 
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Akurma

Akurma

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Glad to see I'm not the only one with the intercooler that looks tilted lol

LOL it bothered me so badly! I spent way more time than I should have messing with it to sit level but finally got it sitting right. I can post pictures of how i have it mounted if it helps you
 

Venompower

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LOL it bothered me so badly! I spent way more time than I should have messing with it to sit level but finally got it sitting right. I can post pictures of how i have it mounted if it helps you

I think mine is just a Procharger intercooler thing, the intercooler is pretty level with the bumper off...

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Good catch on the COP connectors. Many forget these are available. De-pinning a harness is much cleaner than cutting/splicing. By the looks of them they are much like Metri Pack connectors. There is a .063 tool you can get cheap (Amazon) that makes it easier than a pin.
 

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