200,000 mile GT build

[joemomma]

Well shit, guess I have to take them both out and check to make sure I have the same amount of spacers on each. Thanks for the heads up!

Before you do that you might could check it by measuring? Different amounts of spacers might affect the ride height, I'm not sure. Measure along the wheel centerline from the ground to the bottom of the fender.

 

[Akurma]

The nice weather has got me itching to get this thing done before its gone!

Got the steering all finished up.. well mostly, i'll absolutely need an alignment so I got it so its able to roll. The SVE bumpsteer kit confused the hell out of me, Ill leave that up to the alignment shop.

Next issue I had was the passenger side brake lines were fighting to be in the same spot as the K-member. This was a bit annoying but with a little elbow grease and some finesse of the lines I got them routed nicely with no rubbing.

After that It was time to bench bleed the master cylinder and then bleed the entire system. A lot easier with one of those air bleeder tools! Not that keen on the green looking brake lines but it was either that or copper and I thought copper would look worse.

The satisfying moment was finally getting the car back on the ground and on all four wheels for the first time in over a year. Put one of the fenders on while I had the energy left. Will absolutely have to lower those coilovers, I set them high to make sure I have enough clearance, Will probably wait until the motor is in it to make adjustments. The light at the end of the tunnel is starting to be seen!

 

[Akurma]

Another week, another update

Nothing super interesting this time around, All I did was put new Prothane sway bar and endlink bushings on and installed the sway bar. I took the front and rear sway bars off of a 1997 Cobra I had previously parted out as they were a tad thicker and I figured why not, free upgrade. The Cobra had 137k on it and man were the bushings shot. I can only imagine the bushings on my 218,000 miles sway bar were much worse. So if anyone out there is still on stock sway bar bushings.. spend the ~$10 and replace them its insanely easy to do.

I didn't order red bushings but Amazon sent me the wrong ones. oh well not worth the hassle of sending them back. Just happy they fit.

Next was the Endlinks, I was a little concerned about how much shorter the new Prothane units were when placed side by side. However this didn't really seem to be an issue as everything bolted up just fine.

After that I grabbed the other fender and bolted that into place, along with the wheel liners which were a PITA as they have been sitting bent out of shape for the past year. So getting them to form back to how they should be took more time than it should have. While I was on a roll I grabbed the bumper cover and with my Dads help slapped that on as well. It finally looks like a car again! just have to mess with the panel gaps a little bit more.

Also narrowed down when my car was in that accident I always had a hunch about. CarFax shows absolutely nothing about it and i'm honestly not worried as it wasn't that hard of a hit. But the inside of the bumper cover I believe if i'm reading these markings correctly, it was made around June 21st of 2000? So about a year or so after the car was bought? would have hated to be the owner then lol

Next up is the rear end to fix that hole I found in the rear frame rail. I'll also be dropping the gas tank and replacing that as well with a new tank and upgrading the fuel pump to a Deatschwerks 340lph unit.

 

[Akurma]

The guy who repaired the strut tower is going to stop by and take a look at the rear frame end rust that I have going on. Decided to pop the back bumper off and was greeted by yet some more rust

The passenger side is in better shape than the driver side. both sides have rust where the lower inner wheel well area meets the inside of the quarter panel, but the driver side is rusted through... Honestly afraid of how much this will cost as its alot of weird angles and an even tighter space the the shock towers.

While I was under the car I looked around at how the gas tank is removed and it looks super simple to do. I also noticed that at some point someone was in there and updated I believe that harness to the fuel pump? or maybe the entire fuel pump and sending unit assembly? Because I saw this ford tag from December of 2003 and seeing as my car is a 1999 car something was changed. Either was i already purchased a new 340lph pump and a new tank that you can probably already guess that I am going to undercoat as well.

 

[Akurma]

No real updates lately, just in a holding pattern until the shop who is doing the rust repair has room/time for it. Normally I would tackle it myself but the shock towers really made me hate rust repair.

In the mean time I've been transferring over some odds and ends onto the built 2v. I slapped the P1SC on and noticed that the bolt that holds the second small pulley spacing is off? Didn't see this mentioned anywhere in the instructions from Procharger. I plan to just pick up a 1/4' inch longer spacer, just kind of a bummer that I have to do so.

I also have a 3.6 inch pulley as well. There is currently a 4.13 pulley on it currently. Does anyone know what size belt i'll need for a 3.6 inch pulley?

 

[Venompower]

No real updates lately, just in a holding pattern until the shop who is doing the rust repair has room/time for it. Normally I would tackle it myself but the shock towers really made me hate rust repair.

In the mean time I've been transferring over some odds and ends onto the built 2v. I slapped the P1SC on and noticed that the bolt that holds the second small pulley spacing is off? Didn't see this mentioned anywhere in the instructions from Procharger. I plan to just pick up a 1/4' inch longer spacer, just kind of a bummer that I have to do so.

I also have a 3.6 inch pulley as well. There is currently a 4.13 pulley on it currently. Does anyone know what size belt i'll need for a 3.6 inch pulley?

Reach out to Procharger technical support and I promise they will get you sorted out with the right spacer for the application. My tech helped me for a couple weeks get everything buttoned up and now we are facebook friends lol.

 

[Akurma]

Reach out to Procharger technical support and I promise they will get you sorted out with the right spacer for the application. My tech helped me for a couple weeks get everything buttoned up and now we are facebook friends lol.

Thought about doing that as the last time I reached out for their support they were more than helpful, but for something as simple as a spacer I dont mind making a trip to the hardware store

 

[lwarrior1016]

Does the alternator stay there and take up that space? Or do they have you relocate the alternator?

 

[Venompower]

Does the alternator stay there and take up that space? Or do they have you relocate the alternator?

It looks like it would perfectly fill the gap if it does.

 

[Venompower]

Not sure if this is what you have, but hopefully it helps:

https://superchargersonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/PMFE1A-001_B_99-04_GT.pdf

Page 7 is specifically for 1999 Mustang GT.

 

[Akurma]

Does the alternator stay there and take up that space? Or do they have you relocate the alternator?

It looks like it would perfectly fill the gap if it does.

DUHHHHHH i feel dumb now hahaha

Yes I think you both are correct, the alternator does sit on the stud right there. For some reason I was thinking it would sit over the spacer, hence why I thought I needed a longer one. Its been a while since I've had a 2v all together lol

Thanks you two saved me a trip to the hardware store

 

[Venompower]

DUHHHHHH i feel dumb now hahaha

Yes I think you both are correct, the alternator does sit on the stud right there. For some reason I was thinking it would sit over the spacer, hence why I thought I needed a longer one. Its been a while since I've had a 2v all together lol

Thanks you two saved me a trip to the hardware store

Just to note, my P-1SC has similar routing on the Cobra and I ended up having to grind down one of the fins on the alternator at it rubbed on the pulley. You might want to double check once installed, it caused a grinding noise I initially thought may be bad bearings in the Procharger... once clearanced the noise was gone and everything was fine.

 

[Akurma]

Good to know! I have seen a few posts online about that issue

 

[Akurma]

Checked a few things on the seemingly never ending list

Swapped out the 4.13 inch pulley for a 3.6inch one. Super easy just had to heat the pully up a little bit to get it to come off. The new pulley went on with no fuss.

I picked up some new exhaust manifold studs, the ones that connect to the mid-pipe Dorman part #03129. Comes with four studs and they fit these old FRPP shorty headers perfectly.. well one of them at least. the driver side header the holes have no thread and are larger oval shaped holes? Does anyone have any idea what I am suppose to use?

Also picked up a new AC compressor from the local parts store. My old one was covered in the green leak dye so i figured "while im at it.." got it mounted up and then test fitted the belt. Also bolted my power steering pump and res onto the block as well.

After the AC compressor was bolted up I mocked up the harmonic balancer. Maybe someone can chime in here. Compared to the HB i just put on my 65' this one has absolutely no timing marks on it. The only indication I can see is this tiny notch on the back side of it. from the photos below, does this look to be correct for TDC? It looks odd to be as again, on my 65' the keyway is at the 12 o'clock position to mark TDC. The keyway on this is at the 10 o'clock position but the little notch is at the TDC arrow on the timing chain cover?

All my research lead me to believe that a 108 inch belt would be the correct size. However once I had it routed correctly it quickly realized it would be far too short once the alternator was on. Kind of a bummer. I'll return the belt and pick up a 114inch belt as that was what Procharger told me I would need for the 4.13inch pulley the unit originally had. However I thought the 108 would be correct for the 3.6inch pulley that it now on the P1SC. Maybe I should pick up a few sizes and see what fits best, maybe a 110-112inch belt?

 

[weendoggy]

My BBK shorty headers have elongated holes as well and use a standard (or metric, your choice) bolt/nut combination. I have 3/8USS bolts and shouldered nuts on both sides of mine. I would mock up the exhaust pipe and measure for a bolt you'll need. My bet is 2-3" range.

 

[Venompower]

Checked a few things on the seemingly never ending list

Swapped out the 4.13 inch pulley for a 3.6inch one. Super easy just had to heat the pully up a little bit to get it to come off. The new pulley went on with no fuss.

I picked up some new exhaust manifold studs, the ones that connect to the mid-pipe Dorman part #03129. Comes with four studs and they fit these old FRPP shorty headers perfectly.. well one of them at least. the driver side header the holes have no thread and are larger oval shaped holes? Does anyone have any idea what I am suppose to use?

Also picked up a new AC compressor from the local parts store. My old one was covered in the green leak dye so i figured "while im at it.." got it mounted up and then test fitted the belt. Also bolted my power steering pump and res onto the block as well.

After the AC compressor was bolted up I mocked up the harmonic balancer. Maybe someone can chime in here. Compared to the HB i just put on my 65' this one has absolutely no timing marks on it. The only indication I can see is this tiny notch on the back side of it. from the photos below, does this look to be correct for TDC? It looks odd to be as again, on my 65' the keyway is at the 12 o'clock position to mark TDC. The keyway on this is at the 10 o'clock position but the little notch is at the TDC arrow on the timing chain cover?

All my research lead me to believe that a 108 inch belt would be the correct size. However once I had it routed correctly it quickly realized it would be far too short once the alternator was on. Kind of a bummer. I'll return the belt and pick up a 114inch belt as that was what Procharger told me I would need for the 4.13inch pulley the unit originally had. However I thought the 108 would be correct for the 3.6inch pulley that it now on the P1SC. Maybe I should pick up a few sizes and see what fits best, maybe a 110-112inch belt?

My Procharger brother… looking good!

 

[Akurma]

My BBK shorty headers have elongated holes as well and use a standard (or metric, your choice) bolt/nut combination. I have 3/8USS bolts and shouldered nuts on both sides of mine. I would mock up the exhaust pipe and measure for a bolt you'll need. My bet is 2-3" range.

Thanks! I was thinking the same thing, going to have to mock up the pipe and see what nuts & bolts i'll need

 

[joe65]

looks good! coming along!

 

[weendoggy]

Thanks! I was thinking the same thing, going to have to mock up the pipe and see what nuts & bolts i'll need

Measured mine while on the rack and they are 2 1/2", but I could use 2 1/4" if I wanted. You'll be safe at 2 1/2".

 

[Akurma]

Took Friday and spend it at Ford Nationals in Carlise PA. Had some friends and family putting their cars in it and wanted to come and check it out. I ended up impulse purchasing at front and rear set of Mach 1 seats. Couldn't pass up the price of $225. Yes the driver seat has a a tear and some wear but the rest are in great shape! Even the driver seat is in better shape than my current 218k GT seats. I'll get it reupholstered at some point.