2v budget build.

pgfdv6 · Nov 22, 2017

Ok guys so here it goes Iâ€™ve been procrastinating on writing this build. Anyways here it goes platform Iâ€™m starting with is a 2000 V6 160k on the clock.
Been driving it for about 7 months and now Iâ€™m ready to get to work!
Did some searching and found a motor out of a 97 gt with 170k on that was rebuilt 30k ago with paper work

3.8 coming out

Now before putting the 4.6 in I am doing a full PI swap I have been able to source all the parts (or at least I hope so).

I had to find another intake manifold be cause the ass hat from Georgia that sent the first one to me the bottom was all melted bolts were broken off in their bolt holes even the sensor that were included had been snapped off but I was told it must of happen in â€œshippingâ€

So many more pictures but Iâ€™ll just leave it at that.

Order a head changing kit from AM ( M-6067-D46)
Hopefully I can get the at least the NPI heads off tonight and maybe get the PI heads bolted up deciding if I should stick to the stock cam or just go ahead and switch them out since Iâ€™m here any ways all the cams I have looked at seem to be roughly around $650-$700 which is a good amount out of the budget, thoughts? Opinions? I donâ€™t know much about cam shafts so looking for some help here.

As far as the transmission goes I have switched the T5 out for a TR3650 manage to show my 16 yr old brother how to do it, I think was a good first job for him to get his feet wet

Anyways thatâ€™s all I got for now will post updates as they happen.

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OLD H2S · Nov 22, 2017

Now I see where the wheels are, let me have first shot at them. I got good cams for you. I might want the nPI heads. Lots of parts here...

Burninriverdiver · Nov 22, 2017

^take advice from OLD H2S, this guy knows his stuff! Sounds like you've got a good project on your hands, that manifold is unfortunate but it looks like a lousy dorman that isn't worth keeping anyway. Keep us posted with the progress man. Good luck!

97stanger · Nov 22, 2017

Good luck with the build. It really depends what your goals are if cams are worth the investment or not to you. If keeping everything bone stock it probably wouldn't be worth your $ and/or time. If you want to build a stout n/a or future power adder setup than sure a nice set of springs and cams could obviously help. All comes down to goals & budget

pgfdv6 · Nov 22, 2017

Well I wish I knew the build plan usually changes once a day and probably three times on weekends when Iâ€™m not at work [emoji23]

So let me ask you guys when it comes to the PI heads are there certain ones that are better then others? I ask be cause I have two different set on my hands right now.... pics Iâ€™ve got now our crummy but will get better ones Saturday

Now this set here came off of a mustang or so I am told but a more senior mechanic then myself says they are not good so Iâ€™m waiting to get them to an actual machine shop to confirm it tho.

Now this set here I bought off a guy on face book heads are to have 140k on them donâ€™t know to much else

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pgfdv6 · Nov 23, 2017

Also I tried searching any write ups on swapping the heads... any tips? Doâ€™s...Donâ€™t.... things to look out for?

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PinkieT · Nov 23, 2017

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/160636-pi-swap-write-up-1996-mustang-gt.html. Pretty comprehensive write-up.

96blak54 · Nov 23, 2017

Gonna want to be sure the cams are in deed mustang pi cams.

Getting the heads back from the machine shop will nearly eliminate all the problems, except one and thats sparkplug threads. Dont let the machine shop install helicoils. Timesert or locknstitch only. Dont leave the shop without them done. The factory 4threads are not enough.

If you can notch the pistons for valve reliefs, any performance cam will work.

lwarrior1016 · Nov 23, 2017

http://www.sn95forums.com/showthread.php?521-The-PI-Headswap-and-You

This is a write up in our 2v section.

If it was me, I would use the Romeo heads. Those are the ones with the cam caps that are connected. The other heads (the ones in the trunk) are Windsor heads.

pgfdv6 · Nov 23, 2017

96blak54 said:
Gonna want to be sure the cams are in deed mustang pi cams.

Getting the heads back from the machine shop will nearly eliminate all the problems, except one and thats sparkplug threads. Dont let the machine shop install helicoils. Timesert or locknstitch only. Dont leave the shop without them done. The factory 4threads are not enough.

If you can notch the pistons for valve reliefs, any performance cam will work.

So are you saying that if I donâ€™t notch them for the valve relief then I can not run a aftermarket performance cam at all?

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96blak54 · Nov 23, 2017

No, you be able to run a low to almost mild cam, but why prohibit performance potential with .070" of piston valve clearance?

pgfdv6 · Nov 23, 2017

96blak54 said:
No, you be able to run a low to almost mild cam, but why prohibit performance potential with .070" of piston valve clearance?

I am a noob when it comes to all of this. But I was reading on another form about the cams that it was point less to spend the money on a stage 2 cam because with out the other supporting mods thereâ€™s no way to benefit its potential
Here is part of the article itâ€™s fairly long but if anyone wants the full link Iâ€™ve got it saved.

Like I was saying earlier this is my first real build so still learning a lot this is definitely the most in-depth Iâ€™ve been in to the motor.... so thanks for the help

OLD H2S · Nov 23, 2017

You need to stop by..

96blak54 · Nov 23, 2017

Thats good info, thanks for sharing. Read as much as you can. Be leary of facebook info along with the nut swinger crowd. Ill be honest, an off the shelf cam will only net you 20hp meaning youll probably never be over 300rwhp naturally aspirated. On a budget, we can guide you in a good direction, net you over that hp.

96blak54 · Nov 23, 2017

Also OLD H2S is a good guy to talk to. Give him a shout locally if you can.

pgfdv6 · Nov 24, 2017

Well since Iâ€™ll be waiting on OLD H2S to get back into town and figure out what direction this build is really going to go, no work is gonna be done this weekend lol which just means reading and research
But did come across a Black Friday sale on AM for some slp loud mouth 1â€™s [emoji16][emoji28] so will see how it goes.

I read a lot of reviews and seem like the biggest complaints were â€œtoo loudâ€ and that it sits lower then the stock exhaust. Now my custom exhaust I had made already scrapes the ground and looking up under the car the other day I noticed my rear sway bar had some scrapes on it but the majority of this I believe is coming from pulling my car in and out of the bays at shop there is a slight grade of incline to get into the bays.....
just might have to raise it back up a hair but we will see.......

Getting closer and closer every day So hopefully I can get this thing done by Christmas [emoji319][emoji16][emoji16][emoji16] but itâ€™s not easy with 2 different projects going on at the same time lol (rebuilding my bike over winter as well).

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OLD H2S · Nov 27, 2017

I have the full Timesert tool set, you just need to buy the inserts, buy the good ones and bring the heads over and do all at the same time. It is fast and easy to do and I have the tools, maybe 2 hours to do both heads, 100.00 in parts.

pgfdv6 · Nov 28, 2017

OLD H2S said:
I have the full Timesert tool set, you just need to buy the inserts, buy the good ones and bring the heads over and do all at the same time. It is fast and easy to do and I have the tools, maybe 2 hours to do both heads, 100.00 in parts.

Ok I will be free any day after Tuesday.... like I said I am new at this so what exactly am I looking to buy? What is a timesert tool? What is it used for?

When I research it...it looks to be like a tap for the spark plugs why would have to redo these or is it just a precautionary thing?

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pgfdv6 · Nov 28, 2017

Got this from my father that he had previously got for his 95 Gt it wonâ€™t be plug and play but Iâ€™m gonna check the wiring diagrams at my shop and see if I canâ€™t make it work

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pgfdv6 · Dec 1, 2017

Ok so my Windsor heads seem to check out to be ok so with that being said Iâ€™ve begun to tear them down and ready them for the machine shop.

I got the camp caps off, cams out and rockers off but the valve springs require a special tool, Iâ€™m wondering does anyone know a way around using this tool?

Iâ€™ve got them with me here at the shop to work on threw out the day going to let them soak in the parts washer for a bit.

After talking with OLD H2S I think the plan here will be to get the machine shop to deck the heads about 50,000ths get a 3 angle valve job and start from there â€œwelp here goes my Christmas fund
[emoji383]*

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