2V Possibilities

I haven't even started considering what I am going to do with my "modular" but I am interested in all the answers this post generates! Also, very clean car man!

 

1996-1998 Ford Mustang GT:

Romeo Block
Non PI heads
Short runner intake
Crack snap rods and pistons

limit: 450rwhp on internals w/ boost
block limit: 700-1000+hp
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1999-2004 Ford Mustang GT
Romeo/Windsor Block
Long runner PI intake
Performance Improved Heads
Crack snap rods and pistons

limit: 450rwhp+ on internals w/ boost
block limit: 700-1000+hp

Common swap: PI heads on NPI shortblock = 10:0 Compression w/ 260-270rwhp N/A
Common swap: 03/04 Cobra shortblock w/ PI heads = 500-600rwhp with boost

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1996-1998 Cobra Mustang
B-Head with IMRC's
Teksid block aluminum
Long runner style cobra intake
Crack snap rods and pistons

limit: 450-550rwhp on internals with boost
block limit: 700-1100hp with machine work

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03-04 Terminator Cobra
C-Head
IRON Block
Manley rods and pistons
Roots blower M112

limit: 600-700rwhp
Block limit: 800-1200hp with machine work

Everything is interchangeable and you make whatever combo you want with the right supporting hardware. I suggest looking up some build books on amazon to help you get familiarized with what you want to do.

All numbers are all guesstimates because with proper machine work on block and rotating assembly you can achieve far higher numbers. The numbers I posted is what I've seen over the years being in the mustang game for 10+ years for sn95 chasis.

 

4v heads dont necessarily mean more power. 2v's are not the turds you think they are. 4v create more headaches. 2v simplicity.

Really boils down to how much reliable power you want. More reliability = more money.

Yes 4v heads and 2v heads bolt down to the modular block identically, but the matching covers do not interchange. Intakes do not interchange. Exhaust manifolds do not interchange (although will bolt on to either head)

Even the FWD modular engines internals and heads swap out to the RWD blocks. The block and tranny do not. Loads of build options with stock parts.

Dont forget trickflows 2v heads

 

Subbing to this thread, I'm pretty undecided on what i want to do, thought about PI heads then i can put a Kenne Bell on, or just do a coyote aluminator swap if i did the swap would be at the power of a supercharged 2v but naturally aspirated leaving room for more power.. But then i also want to buy a 2013+ F350 Diesel Platinum so i can start rollin coal..

Decisions, Decisions...

 

So the new 5.0 coyote motors happen to have the same length rods as the the 4.6 modulars. they handle quite a bit of power and are pretty affordable.
When shopping look out for rods that are for a stroker kit, you want rods that are 5.933in long, not stoker rods (unless you get a stroker crank.)

Pistons are gonna run you about $450 plus. You cant go over .030 bore (stock bore 3.552 in so .030 over is 3.582). there are other small details to work out in your build such as compression and corresponding cam selection. Probe MMR Manley DSS are some affordable options, I would avoid certain products with colorful "protective coatings".... what ever brand pistons you choose get thier piston rings....

So when thinking about building a short block. The 4.6 and 5.4 pistons are interchanable. so if you see a set of pistons for a ford lightning and they equate to the compression you, want scoop them up! The small differnces you will need to look out for is there are specifics fasteners and bearings for the respective blocks mentioned earlier. So if you have a Teksid block out of a cobra and want to put 2v stuff on it/in it. You will need to get bearings fot the teksid and the bolts for the teksid.

Big thing to remember is most of the stock fastners are torque to yeild (TTY) and can only be used once. Head studs, jack bolts, mains studs.


as far as cranks go cobras came with 8 bolt (flywheel or flexplate connecting to the transmission) forged crank the gt has a 6 bolt cast crank. I honestly havent seena failure of a cast crank due to horsepower..... but most bit power people go forged. Soy ou can find used cobra cranks all the time.... save yourself headache and don't buy one that needs turned... sure you can "save money" but in the long run its a risk not worth taking. I personally think stoker kits ont he 4.6 are not worth the money.

I get a lot of stuff from modmaxracing.com

 

Your same 98 block, Stock cast crank, 2013 boss rods, Lincoln Mark 8 Pistons, pi heads and cams. All very affordable and easy to get. You up the compression and you are using all stock ford parts.......hmmmm, that list sounds awfully familiar lol.

 

No clue lol. Check out modular head shop, they have a build like that and they call it the "the recession buster" build. I think they use aftearket cams though.

 

'03 GT block and crank
Boss rods
Dished Manley forged pistons
Lightly ported PI heads
Comp 270s with springs and retainers
PI intake

We'll see what happens...lol

 

BTW running a forged crank in a 96-98 (possibly til 02) will require some minor machine work. The block does not have accommodations for the extra counter weights on the forged crank.....

With that being said I haven't seen a cast crank fail from power.....

 

Modular head shop is out of business kinda.... they were bought out by excessive motorsports

 

No matter what you decide. Please for the love of God don't make the misstake I did, billet oil pump. My wot launch control broke mine.

 

Mine is a WAP block 02 cast crank. MMR rods and pistons. Romeo heads. Working well so far, do whatever you want to do!

And same, never even heard of a cast crank breaking.

 

Decide now...on paper...what hp level you want. Also write down a budget. A max dollar spent on the project.

 

You mean get one, or don't get one? Lol

Sent from tha trap house.