well the beast fired up , but its back firing, my guy says its running to rich, we found a prob with the alt wireing to the back of the alt . went for a test drive drove like shit, but we are still working out the bugs, he said there might be a chance because of the cam in it that the sensors are not responding right,. please advise on maybe some thing we can check for. ill tell ya what it sure did sound nice , theres nothing like a push rod with a cam. plus the timing set at dead center so maybe we should advance it , ya think that would maybe take care of some of the richness of the fuel?
302 fired up, but having some probs
- Thread starter 95pootang
- Start date
YES advancing the timing WILL help. If the timing isn't advanced enough, it will not allow a FULL burn of the intake charge by the time the exhaust valve opens. This will cause the car to feel SLUGGISH and it will actually continue burning while it exits out the exhaust. This gives you EXTREMELY high Exhaust Gas Temps (headers can GLOW red hot).
As for the cam, yeah it can cause SOME problems but its usually idle surging and bucking while trying to cruise. You really should (depending on how aggressive you cam is) be able to get it to hold an idle and be driveable.
You REALLY DO need to bump your timing to AT LEAST 10 degrees. You'll be amazed at what it can do for you. If the car continues to run like complete shit, you probably have another problem. You want to get the car running as close to "right" as possible before you take it in for a tune. It will save you and your tuner a great deal of pain and time (and you money).
I would, advance the timing to 10 degrees to start with, set your TPS voltage, and finally set your idle. Disconnect the battery to clear out the computer. Hook it back up and go from there.
As for the cam, yeah it can cause SOME problems but its usually idle surging and bucking while trying to cruise. You really should (depending on how aggressive you cam is) be able to get it to hold an idle and be driveable.
You REALLY DO need to bump your timing to AT LEAST 10 degrees. You'll be amazed at what it can do for you. If the car continues to run like complete shit, you probably have another problem. You want to get the car running as close to "right" as possible before you take it in for a tune. It will save you and your tuner a great deal of pain and time (and you money).
I would, advance the timing to 10 degrees to start with, set your TPS voltage, and finally set your idle. Disconnect the battery to clear out the computer. Hook it back up and go from there.
When I set my timing back from 16* to 14* I noticed a slight increase in power but my car started backfiring, by adjusting the fuel pressure I elimnated this though.
Well heres the deal, now correct me if im wrong. the cars timing is set at 10 top center when the engine is stock , now being i have a mild cam forged pistons and crank , i think the timing is going to be more advanced correct? well when we started the car up it spuddered and backfired big time, and the mechanic is thinking it should be set at 10 now i asked him in a non threating way , why not see what happens if you advance it about 5 to 10 and see what happens , well kiss my ass and roll me in mud the dam prob went away, lol now hes still saying we are bandating the prob by advancing the timing, but if everything went away how can one be covering the prob. ps i havent driving the car yet since we advanced it , but it sems to have great throttle when hitting the peddle. please give me your thoughts , thanks gil
No offense to your mechanic but pretty much it sounds like he didn't know what he was talking about OR your signals were just getting mixed. any 5.0....regardless of mods, that I've worked on, has loved between 12-16* of timing advance.
Did he accidently set it at 10degrees retarded (AFTER TDC)? I've done that before and the heat off the headers almost fried an entire set of plug wires while I tried to limp it home.
You didn't cover up the problem...you FIXED the problem.
Did he accidently set it at 10degrees retarded (AFTER TDC)? I've done that before and the heat off the headers almost fried an entire set of plug wires while I tried to limp it home.
You didn't cover up the problem...you FIXED the problem.
I agree with Ryclef. It sounds like your timing was set at -10* cause even at 10*, your car shouldn't backfire or stall, especially with you combo. Buy a timing light, get under your car and mark your balancer with white out and adjust it yourself. Waaay easier than dealing with a less than smart mechanic. O0
well the cars home yahoooooooooooooo, with the new heads and everything one of the valves was stuck so after reving the crap out it , it finally opened. she purrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrs like no tomorrow. gawd the sound of a push rod with a nice cam sure does sound nice, ill take pics of the engine bay soon, then in about three weeks MR kenny bell gets to take his place on his thrown , lol. thanks for all ur help guys!!! :thumb:
Well the timimng is set at about 16, but it seems when im going down the road it kinds spuders alittle every now and then, im wondering if its my maf. and also at idle it does the same its got the comp cam in at and i know it lumps alittle , but shouldnt be like this. from the past i remember my mas doing this shit to my other engine, plus my next question would be i have a 90 mm for the blower when it goes on. would this throw off my ecu if i put the 90 on and took off the stock maf. thanks
S
scarface
Guest
I cant wait to hear it 
94darkhorse
Legend
Glad you got it figured out. Mine is set at 14 and I think I may bump it up in the spring to see if that will help any. Also I am going to tweek my tps and idle. I didnt have enough time when everything went in and when I had to put it to sleep for the winter.
S
scarface
Guest
mine bucks too, but its because the A/F ratio is off, on my 97 the tune is the only way to make it stop.
S
scarface
Guest
dyno tune, not tuneup. Your A/f and timing set to perfect specs by a professional
S
scarface
Guest
im not sure on the 5.0s...I would imagine you get a chip and have it tuned. but with mods it wont operate properly without some kind of adjustment to the ecu
ya i here ya the pisser of it is for now i have to break the engine in for about 500 miles then the kenny bell 90mm maf 42 injectors and boost pump, with the sct chip all ready calibrated from kenny bell for all theses good. so i guess ill keep driving it tell the 500 mile mark then take it in for the good to be put on, its still drivable pretty good , maybe its just me not being use to the cam on the engine. im use to the smoothness of the stock 5.0 vs this beast i had built , lol
DisturbedRacing
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Just curious...whats your fuel pressure set at?
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