Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
Cool! You gotta make it your own.
4.6 Into a Foxbody
- Thread starter Vettn71
- Start date
OP
OP
Vettn71
Member
here's a couple pictures of the notch. Pretty rough right now, but I have plans ;0)
Jim
Jim
Thats perfect! They did half the work for you lol. Are you planning to strip out the inside and paint it all before you do the swap?
FYI, you should go start a build thread and keep good progress pictures in there :thumbsup:
FYI, you should go start a build thread and keep good progress pictures in there :thumbsup:
DKblue98GT
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Wow, that is rough but what a great start. I would love to build a 4 eyed notch with a mod motor.
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
here's a couple pictures of the notch. Pretty rough right now, but I have plans ;0)
Jim
Sweet! Great start dude!
OP
OP
Vettn71
Member
Thanks, all. I'll start a build thread to show my progress
Jim
Jim
OP
OP
Vettn71
Member
I've been neglecting to update this post, for which I apologize. I know there was some interest in what I was doing. I've had a few issues that I have had to address with the body. It is really a rust-free solid car, so no problems there and everything is straight, so no (major) accidents. I continued to disassemble the car to get it ready for paint. One problem I have is welding. I have a Harbor Freight MIG flux-core wire welder, which is pretty basic. It has two settings 60A and 90A and the wire feed speed. Trying to get this set up is killing me. Of course, I haven't done MIG welding before, but I keep hearing how simple it is.
As can be seen in the above photos, all area in yellow are house paint and underneath there is yellow Bondo. I buzzed through the Bondo in a couple places before I realized it wasn't paint. Mostly the Bondo covers grinding marks to remove surface rust. Not my choice, but it is what it is. I have been working on the body and have it pretty straight. I still get some öil-canning" of the roof, but have gotten it pretty stable now. The PO stored house paint on it, so it got dented along the rear of the roof. It's a bear trying to get back there to push the dents out.
This next photo is of the passenger side door. Someone had taken a pair of pliers and bent the front edge of the door out. What a moron.
These are the seats you got if you ordered the most basic Mustang, which this was. An 84 "L". Didn't know there was such a thing, but it was a 4-banger, no options. I think the seats are probably useless, but maybe I can sell the fabric to someone who is restoring their car. This is actually hard to find.
I have some other photos, but Photobucket is being cranky again. I'll try to get some more posted here later
Jim
As can be seen in the above photos, all area in yellow are house paint and underneath there is yellow Bondo. I buzzed through the Bondo in a couple places before I realized it wasn't paint. Mostly the Bondo covers grinding marks to remove surface rust. Not my choice, but it is what it is. I have been working on the body and have it pretty straight. I still get some öil-canning" of the roof, but have gotten it pretty stable now. The PO stored house paint on it, so it got dented along the rear of the roof. It's a bear trying to get back there to push the dents out.
This next photo is of the passenger side door. Someone had taken a pair of pliers and bent the front edge of the door out. What a moron.
These are the seats you got if you ordered the most basic Mustang, which this was. An 84 "L". Didn't know there was such a thing, but it was a 4-banger, no options. I think the seats are probably useless, but maybe I can sell the fabric to someone who is restoring their car. This is actually hard to find.
I have some other photos, but Photobucket is being cranky again. I'll try to get some more posted here later
Jim
OP
OP
Vettn71
Member
I'm doing a full-on ModFox with this car, so I had to buy some JY pieces due to the differences in the dash mounting and parking brake. I also needed to get the steering column bearing plate that's in the sn95s. All together it was $125. Not bad considering the labor.
Since the 84 was an automatic, I have to add the "bump up" for the 5-speed
The bearing plate for the steering column
Anyone have any hints on flux-core MIG welding?
Jim
Since the 84 was an automatic, I have to add the "bump up" for the 5-speed
The bearing plate for the steering column
Anyone have any hints on flux-core MIG welding?
Jim
Great progress! With that el-chepo welder (I have one too, lol) It really is a trial and error thing. What size wire are you using? Mine came with .030" wire but accepts .035" wire. I recently switched to the .035" and it works a lot better than before, still looks like crap but it works. There will also be a lot of clean up after welding with that one because there is no gas to clean your area.
Thomas_W
Well-Known Member
Best tip for flux core... dont!
invest in a decent mig welder with a gas bottle. You'll thank yourself when your not cleaning off all the weld splatter from the flux core junk.
invest in a decent mig welder with a gas bottle. You'll thank yourself when your not cleaning off all the weld splatter from the flux core junk.
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
Get yourself a can of antispatter, works wonders for clean up. Use some practice pieces to.set your machine up. Once you have it down they work just fine. My biggest complaint with the 110/120 machines is their duty cycle. Youve got about 3 min of weld time then have to wait for the machine to cool down.
Silver95bird
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Just a few more options for you - I had a 93 Crown Vic which had a 4.6 with both a clutch fan in front, and also ran EEC-IV, not the extra wiring of the EEC-V with the extra o2 sensors. Look for early 90s CV's. Early 92s even had AODs, if you found one of those it would even be compatible with a 5 spd conversion without throwing codes for the lack of the electronically controlled trans. The date was like 2/18/92 they started the electronic trans, iirc. They also had 4.6s with the SBF bellhousing pattern! lots of weird stuff on the early cars.
duff daddy
Legend
If you are on facebook look up the group, forced induction modular madness and call out josh taylor. He has a 4v SC fox
Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
OP
OP
Vettn71
Member
Well, I've done exactly zero on my project, as I had my shoulder replaced the end of October. I have made some progress, though. I bought anEastwood 135 MIG welder with a gas bottle and a HF 5hp, 60 gal 2-stage compressor. So, I might not be able to work on it, yet, but I have more better good tools! :0)
Im healing up well. It's just a long process. My physical therapist told me I have to go slowly, as I could cause the shoulder to dislocate if I do the wrong thing at the wrong time. I go into the garage every now and then and look at it, anyways
im considering going to a 2001-2004 computer. My tuner says they have more parameters to play with. I know I would need the engine harness, pcm and harness, instrument cluster and have it all reprogrammed. I could also go COP. I have a 2002 dash harness in my attic. What would interchange with it? I can't seem to find any information (other than model numbers) with Mr. Google or here
TIA
Jim
Im healing up well. It's just a long process. My physical therapist told me I have to go slowly, as I could cause the shoulder to dislocate if I do the wrong thing at the wrong time. I go into the garage every now and then and look at it, anyways
im considering going to a 2001-2004 computer. My tuner says they have more parameters to play with. I know I would need the engine harness, pcm and harness, instrument cluster and have it all reprogrammed. I could also go COP. I have a 2002 dash harness in my attic. What would interchange with it? I can't seem to find any information (other than model numbers) with Mr. Google or here
TIA
Jim
