5.0 mods with Dyno results

RichV · Jan 12, 2013

Found an interesting article by Super Ford on 5.0 mods, it's back from 1996. It's a few pages, but I'll just get to the meat and potatoes.

PHASE 1
Peak Hp
Peak Torque

Baseline
201.7@4300
261.2@3700

Remove silencer
206.2@4700
265.2@3700

K&N filter
207.3@4700
265.2@3700

Underdrive pulleys
217.4@4900
278.8@3800

SplitFire plugs
218.9@4800
278.5@3700

1.7 rockers
223.2@4700
281.6@3700

PHASE 2
Mufflers
227.9@4900
285.1@3600

Short-tube headers
227.6@4900
282.9@3600

75mm air meter
230.8@5000
288.1@3700

Equal-length headers
231.9@4900
287.4@3800

PHASE 3
GT-40 intake
238.6@5200
285.3@3900

Steeda module
248.8@5100
291.6@4000

PHASE 4
GT-40 heads
272.4@ 5000
308.9@ 4000

24 lb. injectors
275.6@ 5100
310.6@ 4000

Suposedly the mods were done systematicaly and started with phase 1, then ended with the GT40 heads. Interesting writeup, if anyone is interested, I can PDF the whole thing and link it or something.

g36 monkey · Jan 12, 2013

that really showed how much of a choker the heads are. look at that gain! And I'm surprised how much was gained from UDP's.

Good stuff rich!

RichV · Jan 12, 2013

Ya, the #s seem pretty legit with my experience. Amazing that UDPs and 1.7RR net a solid 25rwhp and 20 rw ft-lbs.

g36 monkey · Jan 12, 2013

I know man, that's crazy!

ScottyDsntKnow · Jan 12, 2013

Splitfire plugs? Rofl. Kind of illegitimizes the rest of the article, there is some suspect stuff there too like gaining power with the 24s when 19s are more then enough for that combo, the silencer picking up 6whp and 275whp with the stock mid-pipe still in there... who knows. These magazines are paid for by the advertisers of the products so you need to take anything with a grain of salt. I'm surprised they don't have this thing picking up 5whp from a MSD product. I know what it took for ME to get to 300+whp on a budget.

Mustanger · Jan 12, 2013

Yeah I'd like to have the link...interesting, thanks. Looks like to me I will just skip headers...

hottwheels04 · Jan 12, 2013

deff want to see the link,under drive pullies are a waste they make ur alternator/ waterpump not run right and with the car overheating running like crap any hp you do gain you lose, they are only good for like 1-10hp @ most.

ScottyDsntKnow · Jan 12, 2013

Mustanger said:
Yeah I'd like to have the link...interesting, thanks. Looks like to me I will just skip headers...

No, definitely get headers the 5.0 stock headers are junk but you should definitely do longtubes if your state allows them. For a 5.0 get the MACs, they fit like a glove and they have the EGR bung so you don't have to worry about that mess. You can also install them with the motor in the car, just have to jack it up all the way and remove the starter which is not difficult. I had them and they fit great, tucked up against the floorpan and I would have had room to remove the trans with them in if I needed to. One recommendation I have is to get ARP header studs while they are out, makes the swap a MILLION times easier especially with the MACs that have individual flanges.

hottwheels04 said:
deff want to see the link,under drive pullies are a waste they make ur alternator/ waterpump not run right and with the car overheating running like crap any hp you do gain you lose, they are only good for like 1-10hp @ most.

I had the aluminum BBKs installed on my old 5.0 Cobra without the alternator pulley and it ran great. I had two 12" subs in the trunk too and the lights did not dim when the bass hit so I'm not sure what your situation was or why yours ran like crap but mine was fine. Everyone I ever talked to prior to putting them on said leave the alt pulley off. I still have that pulley on top of my garage fridge come to think of it... Also never had any overheating issues with the pullies confirmed with a mechanical Autometer gauge. Had a 180 tsat and the fan set to come on at 180 as well via a custom dyno tune and even in the summer when it was hot as hell out I never saw above 200.