5.0 running bad after overheating 4 years ago. Help!

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Aviator Guy

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From a post about 6 mths ago, AG mentioned that he assembled engine and drove it to be tuned. On return from tuning, car overheated and basically this is where he's at today.
There are many details missing here. We know he has heads and intake, but what about cam and MAS?
Why did it overheat? Fan not working, ccrm bad?

AG, have you pulled codes?

There are no codes so far
Cam is B cam from Summit Racing and MAS is 70 mm TB with K&N air filter conic shape under the fender.


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Yes the tuner installed the purple injectors and they have these connectors because they didn’t fit directly in my harness.
I had been testing for continuity the injectors harness and found out they are good, I remove my ECM and tested the harness today and they had continuity.
I really don’t know why the car overheated after the shop did the dyno and the tunning. If I drove my car there without overheating how is that possible that my CCM went bad?
I even changed the thermostat and also the electric fan thinking that they were my culprit but nope. I even ran a wire to a toggle switch to start the fan as soon I see the temp gauge on the middle.
Guys it is so frustrating at this point that I don’t know what else to do.
I wanted to see if my ECM is bad, any body knows a shop that I can take my ECM there and tested?
Or should I open it and look for some leaking resistor inside?

Please let me know what you guys would do.


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I found an ECM in the states so I am going to order it and see if my problem goes away.
I will keep you posted.


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Hey warrior and wmac is there a diagnostic program that I can get to run a diagnostic on the ecm? The chip that was installed by the tuner guy has a plug in there.
Just thinking out loud, I just don’t want to ended up with extra parts that I am not going to be using.


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lwarrior1016

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Hey warrior and wmac is there a diagnostic program that I can get to run a diagnostic on the ecm? The chip that was installed by the tuner guy has a plug in there.
Just thinking out loud, I just don’t want to ended up with extra parts that I am not going to be using.


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Being an OBD 1 setup, I’m not too sure if there is a program you can download. If I’m not mistaken, you can download the program that the tuner used to write the chip but then you have to have the cables and whatnot to hook up to the chip.
 

evilcw311

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Depends on the chip. Some have a port that you can hook a bus cable to and others don’t have anything.


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Yes you are right some doesn’t have anything but when I remove mi e I saw the chip has a port to hook it up.
I had been calling the shop to see if I can take mine there and see if they can review the program but they don’t one over the phone to talk and I left them some messages with the guy who answer but haven’t call me back yet.
I will try to call them back again tomorrow


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Ok guys finally the shop answer my calls back and he was able to take my car and get her check out.
After all the recommendations like take the gas tank down and replace the fuel in there with new one, change the oil, plugs get the differential cover out and flush the fluids and wires the fan directly so it comes on as soon my switch goes on. He found out that the culprit was the distributor! It was bad so He replaced it and I pick her up on Friday and men let me tell you I missed driving my car!!!
All 5 years parked because a fricking distributor!!


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Whole dizzy new with cap and rotor


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What brand, MSD or Accel or ?

Do you have the old one, if not go get it.

But a motorcraft DU-50 from you ford dealer. This is the pip for a 94/95. Have it installed in your old dizzy so you have a working spare. The oem distributor is better than any other including MSD or Accel or Davis.

I run an MSD, changed the pip, have the oem for a spare and 2 pips. They will crap out and leave you stranded. You have just experienced this.

Enjoy your ride.
 
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I got my old one what do you mean with PIP? He put a brand name spectra never heard of it


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A spare us good to have, but sometimes the bushings in em can wear out, especially after the engine has had a rebuild or two. And that can cause the shaft to wobble in em enough to cause spark scatter and hard starting. Check the shaft and see if it's got slack in the bushings before dropping extra $$ in parts for it.
 

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The pip is the ignition profile sensor. Take the cap off, the pip "reads" the teeth of the shutter wheel. It has the wiring harness attached to it.
 
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Ok thanks for the info so I wonder why he didn’t rebuilt mine instead he install that spectra brand humm


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I also saw a guy who was ready to sell his Ford truck over a deal like this one time.. took it to 3 garages and they all did the same thing, cap, rotor button, coil, plug wires, danm thing would still fall all over itself... He pull into our parking lot cussing at the truck, told Al what was going on with it and told him he could either fix it or keep it he didn't care... Al got a big grin on his face and said ok... Went to his toolbox, got out a finishing nail, cut the head off of it and trimmed it down, popped it down between the reluctor wheel and the distributor shaft. Fired it up.. ran smooth as a baby's ass... Guy cussed a blue streak... Al just grinned at him and told him if he had something hard to fix bring it back.. Later Al told me he'd seen that happen before.. small key that holds the reluctor on the distributor shaft can wiggle out and get lost, then the reluctor just spins freely on the shaft... I'd have never known that one if I'd never hung out at that garage!! Remember that one!!
 

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Just plug and play for him to replace. But if you have the original Ford distributor, it is considered by most to be the very best quality and with a new DU-50 pip will take more abuse than anything else. You would need a press and bearing slitters to remove the gear and spacer after knocking out the roll pins

The pip can only be replaced by removing the shaft from the case.

I would "rebuild" it, run it and keep the Spectra for a spare.

To check the bushing that Werecrow mentions above, with one hand on the case and other on the end of the shaft at the gear, see if there is any back and forth moment. (wiggle) There should be next to none. There will be about a 1/16" up and down play in the shaft.
 

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