5W20 Royal Purple??

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 19mustang95, Dec 9, 2006.

  1. 19mustang95

    19mustang95 Legend

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    Jun 25, 2006
    im gonna convert all my fluids to Royal Purple, i.e. oil, tranny fluid, diff....but on AmericnaMuscle.com they only sell 5W20, is that ok, i thought our cars run 5W30 :dunno:
  2. 97vertstang

    97vertstang Well-Known Member

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    Jan 11, 2006
    u should find some royal purple at pep-boys. i would stick with full synthetic mobil 1 . 5w-20 is for the 99-04 gt mustangs, ford required it too meet CAFE standards for fuel requiremnts, go with 5w-30
  3. jpajkos

    jpajkos Active Member

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    Jun 20, 2006
    you can get 5w-30 from lethalperformance as well. Royal Purple is also a full synthetic oil like mobile one. I have used mobile one in my previous motor and when I saw how it looked I will not be using mobile 1 in the future. But it could be different for your vehicle. :santa_undecided:
  4. voidfinger

    voidfinger Well-Known Member

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    Dec 16, 2006
    I'm so sorry to bring this thread back from the dead... but what do you mean ??? about the 5w20.... does it make you get better fuel milage or something....

    And i'll go on and say it "holy shit bat man back from the dead" lol.
  5. Matt94GT

    Matt94GT Post Whore Retired Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Jan 10, 2006
    Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
    I use mobil1 first time trying it, why didnt you like it? you mean dirty when you removed it? just put royal purple in trans and rear end.

    QTRHRSE Member

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    Oct 27, 2007
    i used Royal Purple a few times in my 05... but I've used Mobil One for YEARS in my other vehicles and i ended up switching back t it on the 05 as well.

    When i disassembled my 98 motor with 92,xxx miles on it that had mobil one since i bought it, at 8k miles, it looked GREAT. Damn valvetrain looked brandnew, and so did the cross hatch. No sign of any gunking at the timing tensioners either.
  7. Goldmember

    Goldmember Well-Known Member

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    Aug 27, 2007
    Cornwall, NY
    Ford OK'd running 5W20 in pretty much everything from 1987 and up but that doesn't make it a good idea. I ran 5W20 in my '95 Marquis and noticed only that it was using oil faster. Went to 5W30 and was pleased with the results.

    Just switched to Mobil 1 5W30 in my '97 a couple weeks ago and call me crazy but I think my timing chain rattle is gone. (Only hear it when it's cold) Then again, when I drained the old oil only 5 qts came out and the car needs 6!
  8. BradleyJP

    BradleyJP New Member

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    Dec 28, 2008
    Goldmember: After proofreading my post I noticed my reply may come off as condescending. However, I mean no such thing, and ask that you don't take offense to my questioning; I'm just curious.

    So are you saying that switch to the 5W-30 caused your motor to burn less oil?

    If it's not a good idea then why is it the standard in EVERYTHING they currently make and nearly EVERYTHING they have made since the late-nineties/early-2000s (except for the Taurus with the 3.0L pushrod V6 in it). It says it in the owner's manuals, in the service manuals, on All-Data (although not the best place for information, I do admit) and in the reference books at Napa and Advance Auto Parts?

    Just curious to see where this logic comes from. Bottom line: difference between 5W-20 and 5W-30 is that the later is the thicker of the two once it heats up. Sludge, gunk buildup, etc. is 90% (if not completely) depedent on the brand name alone. All of the engines that Ford has produced for the last two-three years have over-head camshaft (OHC) valvetrain setups, and OHC setups require less moving parts. Less moving parts means less lubrication needed, and this, I hypothesize, is why Ford now exclusively recommends 5W-20 to be used in their engines.

    NOTE: All of this is assuming a stock or even mildly modified engine. Once engine internals begin to get upgraded it may be smart to switch to a thicker oil. And I may be 100% wrong in all of this, and someone please correct me if I am at all misinformed.
  9. sxynerd

    sxynerd Well-Known Member

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    Dec 28, 2006
    RP has many more detergents and additive than most oils. That means it gets dirtier fast which mean more oil changes at a higher price point. For a DD econo car 0W20 or 0w30 is plenty. At start up there is no oil on the market that lubricates sufficiently, period For hard drive daily drivers 0w20 is fine for the winter(ish) months and 0w30 is good for the other times. The reason people need to change their oil isn't because the oil molecules have gone bad, it's that the Additive have been burned up or destroyed by the heat. This is why it's a bad idea to mix oils. The additives can dilute resulting in in inefficient lubrication.

    I can go on for months on Oil and why or which but I'll leave it at this. Essentially all oil is the same it's the BS addative that mess it up. If you have a high mileage engine that you don't know the previous upkeep on, you have the possibility of having a nightmare by switching to an oil with lots of detergents. (that gunk may be holding that POS your driving together one piston ring at a time)

    AMSoil, and Mobil1 5w20 are my favorites for aftermarket performance vehicles.

    The next is a short section of an article I found on the net that is everything that is oil. This guy is an Oil king and knows what he's talking about. It's too long and toooo complicated to explain everything to you guys so just trust that what matters most is that you run oil as thin as you engine can handle and that you change it often. I change my oil about every 1500 miles. Mineral oil is just as good as synthetic IF you change your oil often.

    30 weight oil:

    Temperature ( F )....Thickness

    32..........................250 (rough estimate)

    Mineral oil:

    Oil type...Thickness at 75 F... at 212 F...at 302 F

    Straight 30..........250....................10..........3
    10W-30...............100....................10........ ..3
    0W-30..........There are none in this range......

    Synthetic oil:

    Oil type...Thickness at 75 F... at 212 F...at 302 F

    Straight 30...........100...................10...........3
    10W-30.................75...................10........ ...3
    0W-30...................40...................10...... .....3

    Suggestions for oil....

    30 wt:
    Mobil One 0W-30
    Penn Synthetic 5W-30
    Red Line 5W-20 (a thick 20 wt oil)*

    20 wt:
    Mobil One 5W-20*
    Valvoline SynPower 5W-20

    ?..Race Oils for Street Use?..
    Use these when continued sump temperatures over 240 F are expected.

    60 wt:
    Redline straight 60 wt racing oil (racing only, not for the street, acts as a SAE 20W-60 oil)
    Shell Helix Ultra Racing Oil 10W-60
    Valvoline SynPower 20W-50

    50 wt:
    Castrol Syntec 5W-50
    Shell Helix Ultra 15W-50

    40 wt:
    Red Line 5W-40
    Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40

    30 wt:
    Red Line 10W-30

    20 wt:
    Amsoil 5W-20
    Red Line 5W-20