6 piston Brembo brake setup

JeremyAlan

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Alright guys this is the plan:

CTS-V 6 pot brembos with GT500 14" rotors and a custom fabricated adapter bracket for the caliper to mount to the spindle.
The calipers are going for $278 for one side and $240 for the other. I got a quote from rotorpros.net for GT500 rotors in the $250 range.
You'll need the caliper pin kit, which is around $21. For me, the hidden beauty in this swap is the availability of relatively cheap pads. Because of the OEM CTS-V(other manufactures too!) application of these calipers you can easily get pads and have a broader selection than with a specialty caliper.

Here is a shitty photo of the CTS-V Caliper I took
IMG_6891.jpg


These calipers are superior to the Mustang's in many aspects, for example the piston sizes vary to ensure even pad wear in heavy use(track) situations. They are a monoblock design and give a firmer pedal feel, they handle heat better, etc..

What I have become most concerned over is pedal feel and brake bias. I ran the specs for the stock setup through a bias calculator and it returned a 71% forward bias. The new setup with stock rears returns a 74% forward brake bias. I see that as negligible, am I correct?

I'm currently working on how pedal feel will be affected.
Let me know what you guys think!

-Jeremy
 

ttocs

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you need to find a mustang troll named cobra racer and he can tell you anything you never wanted to know about brembo. I am sure bruce knows what site he is on and about to get kicked out of next :)

Are you going to make a bracket to mount them too? I am about to talk to a place that has a cnc laser cutter to make a little longer alt bracket for my vortech set up they could cut these as well more then likely.
 

JeremyAlan

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Yes, I need to prototype the bracket first. My buddy is sending me a spindle to work with and figure everything out.
 

95opal

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Interesting swap. What do you think the overall cost would be. From what you listed your over a $1000 already and still need to design a bracket and add in pads.. your gonna be at about the same price you can buy a 6piston wildwood kit with a billet caliper and two piece rotor compared to the ctsv cast caliper and one piece rotor. Unless your going to upgrade to a two piece for more $. Youll also have to address the master cylinder and figure out the correct bore size and possibly add in an adjustable proportioning valve. Lot of work ill be keeping an eye on what you come up with.
 

JeremyAlan

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Interesting swap. What do you think the overall cost would be. From what you listed your over a $1000 already and still need to design a bracket and add in pads.. your gonna be at about the same price you can buy a 6piston wildwood kit with a billet caliper and two piece rotor compared to the ctsv cast caliper and one piece rotor. Unless your going to upgrade to a two piece for more $. Youll also have to address the master cylinder and figure out the correct bore size and possibly add in an adjustable proportioning valve. Lot of work ill be keeping an eye on what you come up with.

With the list outlined in the original post I'm only up to $789. I will of course need pads still, $154, totalling to $943. Also, looking into the proportioning valve, an FRPP unit is only about $54. That brings the total to $997.

Just glancing through American Muscle and Lethal's sites I'm seeing 4-pot/13" setups going for around $1200-1400 and the 6pot/14" for around $1700-3300. Whew.

I know this wasn't the easiest route, but I feel like it will be cost effective in the long run :)
 

MustangChris

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wow. very interested in what you come up with.... very cool. love how you mish-mosh your car together for mad-powerhouse-performer.
 

MadStang

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what are your plans for the rear setup? c-clip axles make opposed piston calipers unusable (pedal feel will go limp when turning since the axle will push the caliper piston in...
 

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Looks like a good front setup, curious about the back though. As Brett said, you're pretty limited on caliper options.

If you need the bracket made, let me know. I do Cnc machining and deal with custom brake kits all the time. I'll hook you up!
 

RichV

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I'll be devils advocate here...


Why do this? Sounds like a lot of brain damage and cost to experiment. There are already numerous kits out there for our cars that are proven and designed/tested.

And if you can activate your ABS with the current setup, what will larger calipers and rotors do for you?
 

g36 monkey

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he is trying to save money I think is the reason behind it.

What [MENTION=17007]RichV[/MENTION] is getting at is there probably won't be a huge difference, you will just engage ABS sooner from lockup.
[MENTION=10532]MadStang[/MENTION], will 9" housings on the ends aid with caliper options?
 

MadStang

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What [MENTION=17007]RichV[/MENTION] is getting at is there probably won't be a huge difference, you will just engage ABS sooner from lockup.
[MENTION=10532]MadStang[/MENTION], will 9" housings on the ends aid with caliper options?

Yup limitation of the brakes will then be transferred to what your tires can handle.. overkill brakes look cool but don't really provide much function.

Yessir, 9" Axle Housing Ends will eliminate the problem.
 

g36 monkey

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Yup limitation of the brakes will then be transferred to what your tires can handle.. overkill brakes look cool but don't really provide much function.

Yessir, 9" Axle Housing Ends will eliminate the problem.


Ok, I'll bug you when the time comes ;p
 

95opal

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What RichV is getting at is there probably won't be a huge difference, you will just engage ABS sooner from lockup.
MadStang, will 9" housings on the ends aid with caliper options?

ABS whats that crap

9" ends or c-clip eliminators depending on your intentions..
 

JeremyAlan

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what are your plans for the rear setup? c-clip axles make opposed piston calipers unusable (pedal feel will go limp when turning since the axle will push the caliper piston in...

First off, I love that car! To answer your question, I was going to leave them stock for now. In the OP I stated that based on a calculator I used the brake bias would only move forward 3% from stock. I briefly looked into FTBR's 13" upgrade for the rear. That kit essentially relocates the stock caliper further out from the spindle to stuff a 13" rotor in the rear of the car. According to the bias calculator I was using that would get me a 2% more rearward bias than stock. Based on those calculations I decided just to leave the stock 11.96" rotor with 1 pot caliper. Also, I really don't want to lose my parking brake or complicate the rear brake setup trying to figure out a way to keep it.

I did not know that about C-clip axles, good to know.

Looks like a good front setup, curious about the back though. As Brett said, you're pretty limited on caliper options.

If you need the bracket made, let me know. I do Cnc machining and deal with custom brake kits all the time. I'll hook you up!

I will update the thread as I go along. If I can't get it machined here in the UK, I will hit you up!

I'll be devils advocate here...


Why do this? Sounds like a lot of brain damage and cost to experiment. There are already numerous kits out there for our cars that are proven and designed/tested.

And if you can activate your ABS with the current setup, what will larger calipers and rotors do for you?

I take the road less traveled with this car lol. Usually to save money as in the case of the blower swap(I picked up the old M122 for $350), but sometimes for increased safety/performance as in the case with the projector headlights. My overall goal is to make the car OEM+, or what ford/svt would have done if they had more time and money.

The larger calipers and rotors should deal with heat better than the stock smaller units. I plan on taking this car to as many track days as I can while here in the UK and on my return to the US.

he is trying to save money I think is the reason behind it.

This^
 

RichV

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That's cool. Heat management is important, but also think of how much weight you are adding with the larger rotors. I have the actual weight difference between 11" and 13" OE style rotors and the #s are pretty staggering. To add another 1" or 2" of mass I'd probably not do it just for that. The 11" setup does the job well on-track with proper cooling ducts for a 3000lb car. Also remember the tires stop the car, not brakes.

IMO two places to never experiment or try and cut corners would be brakes and safety equipment. Because if those fail, people can die.
 

JeremyAlan

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Of course, I understand that tire compound will greatly affect how well a vehicle can stop, corner, and accelerate. My Cobra is pushing 4000 lbs as well. It weighs 3860 with myself and a 1/4 tank of gas. The plan is to keep it a GT style car, comfortable and fast. I have had to rapidly slow down from 140 before and the stock front brakes were not very happy with me. I know that pad material can play a part in that as well, this just seemed like a cheaper alternative to staggering prices for Big brake kits.
 

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