94/95 vortech with AFM power pipe.

Discussion in 'Forced Induction & Tuning' started by ttocs, Apr 25, 2014.

  1. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    Does this look right?
    [​IMG]

    If I start too turn it up much more it will hit the fender support. Anyone made any kind of braket to help hold all that inside the fender?
     
  2. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    so after a little of my own research it looks like I should have cut the hole up higher closer to the hood to twist it up higher, then I can adjust the end up/down to keep it out of the brackets/fog lights? Not a big deal if it is I am getting good at filling holes. Can't seem to find a pic of it from inside the fender if anyone happens to have one? Also curious how much space I should leave around the pipe to the fender aprons I welded in? I know to use the vac lines to cover the edge but want to be sure there is enough space around it for movement..
     
  3. ster302

    ster302 Member

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    I remember on mine that the pipe was only about 3/4" away from the top of the apron and maybe only a 1/2" from the strut tower, I pretty much had mine as far back and up as I could get it in to the "corner".
     
  4. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    yea I was reading that it should be up that high to avoid the fender liner which is what I was worried about. Hell that is with the suspension full out when I air it out it would not be pretty. Any idea how close the filter was to the fender mount and fog lights?
     
  5. chris91

    chris91 Well-Known Member

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    Not sure if this pic will help you or not. The dumbass I got the car from cut the whole apron out like an idiot. I do remember it being up kinda high though.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    after looking back at it I need too modify the hole to allow it to tilt up. It will not be a problem as I needed some space to run the wires from the alt to the off board voltage regulator so I can just hide them down the back of the supercharger and under the power pipe into the fender. Thanks.
     
  7. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    Call me a dumb ass too then this f'er was not going on with the suggested 4.5" hole cut out where they said too. Not sure if this was a pipe for a fox or what the deal was but until I cut the hell out of the stock apron(behind the scottrod panels) the filter stuck out 6" past the fender. I kept trimming/cutting until I basically have a hole almost as big as this and still need to trim on the bottom a little more to get it under the fender.....

    [​IMG]

    It seemed like a lot of weight hanging and the way the maf ended at that bracket it just seemed lazy not to make some kind of bracket to hold the end up.
     
  8. chris91

    chris91 Well-Known Member

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    Nah dude cut mine all the way to the front. The hole was huge.
     
  9. Sinned83

    Sinned83 Well-Known Member

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    Chris that car was clean bro!
     
  10. 95opal

    95opal Well-Known Member

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    Needs to go higher...JFYI you should cut those stock aprons out to avoid trapping moister and rotting out your scott rods. Would also at least primer the back of the scott rods also
     
  11. chris91

    chris91 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! It was A LOT of work. Guy I got it off of(he is on here...) was a COMPLETE slob and a hack. If I was to do it again I would have never traded him. BUT I did make a killing on the car after I worked my magic. Here is what I started with.

    [​IMG]


    Sorry for jackin your thread Scott. :D
     
  12. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    Yea I went out last night and did the last bit of cutting needed to fit them in. Ended up cutting them all the way up to the pinch welds on top and still needed to cover that edge with a door edge guard as the pipe is still rubbing it. After that I had to cut part of the bottom out to get it in the last 1/2" so the almost the entire stock panel was cut out behind the scottrod panels. Everything will be inside the fenders is getting hit with POR15 for rust and I am not going to finish the mounting bracket for the front till I get the fender back on and the bracket lined up. I am going to make it so that its just hanging off of it so it can still flex when needed but also not hanging all the weight on the clamps/boots.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. FivepointSlow

    FivepointSlow Well-Known Member

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    Excuse my slight off topicness, but
    Was there a particular reason you swapped strut tower braces?
    My GT brace runs my 96 cobra hood a tiny bit... So I either have to get a cobra brace like that or find a way to safely sent the underside of my hood a little bit. Or cut it.


    Crapatalkin' on the iPhone 5.0
     
  14. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    I would guess that he has some aftermarket heads that required the intake be raised which then hits the stock bar.

    Had to relocate the CCRM because I cut away most of the area it was mounted too but it gave me a chance to put the voltage regulator in a nice/easy place. The wiring is held up tight enough that it helps to hold it up as well.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. chris91

    chris91 Well-Known Member

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    No reason at all. I bought the BBK Strut Tower and BBK TB for $100 so I figured Id throw it on.