94 GT starter engages but won’t spin motor.

chrisp427

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I have a 94GT that I have completely redone. New wiring, new motor and tranny. I’m in the process of removing the old harness but it is not connected. I installed a painless switch panel and have it powered, connected to the starter and battery. It is a new stroker motor, with a New PA performance starter. Not to mention I sent the first starter back so this is another new one. The only sense I can make is maybe my ground , motor to body is not good enough. My next move is to run a ground directly from the battery to the block. Any suggestions, I’m open to trying anything!

94GT
Mustang Build Sheet
Engine Block
Dart Iron Eagle Sportsman
#31355235
Pistons- Wiseco ProTru pt-090A3
Reverse Dome 351 Ford ratios based on .020 deck
Bore-4.155 compression-9.7.1 to 10.2.1
Eagle ESP crankshaft, forged H beam rods, Arp high grade fasteners
Professional products 10,000 rpm harmonic balancer
Canton racing products 6 quart oil pan and windage tray
Melling high volume oil pump
Nornda Automotive timing chain and gears
Comp camshaft and Roller lifters
Comp cam pushrods
Intake valve lift-.569
Exhaust valve lift-.574
Duration .006 Tappet Lift 286 open, close 290
..050 INT: 6 BTDC. 50 ABDC
EXH: 52. BBDC 8. ATDC

Intake. Exhaust
Lobe lift .3560. 240
Lobe Separation 112.0 intake centerline

AFR Renegade 220 series heads
1.72 Scorpion roller rockers
FAST EFI 2.0 fuel management sys.68A1405A-0803-4BEA-9BC4-BE3634B16368.jpegCE1F8E66-4800-40BB-8B74-A7F22CC4D379.jpeg
 

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lwarrior1016

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First I say yes, run a ground to the block. Second, this may sound silly, but put a ratchet on the crankshaft and make sure the engine turns over easily by hand. We had a fellow member here that just went through a pa performance starter, it burnt up in a very short time.
 
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chrisp427

chrisp427

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First I say yes, run a ground to the block. Second, this may sound silly, but put a ratchet on the crankshaft and make sure the engine turns over easily by hand. We had a fellow member here that just went through a pa performance starter, it burnt up in a very short time.
Checked that too, motor spins fine with a socket and 18 inch ratchet. Starter has been swapped for another one, and bench tested ok.
 

Notthenow

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Old battery with a charger on it sometimes won't spin a motor. In AZ if a battery is 2 1/2 to 3 years old it's useful life is usually done. Also, what was wrong with the first starter, same issue?
 

Notthenow

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I once bought a car for cheap because a guy thought the motor was hydro-locked. He had changed the starter because the solenoid would engage, but not crank the engine. Lights would dim, but no clicking or turning over. It was a weak battery.
 

ttocs

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So its just cranking slowly? if you think the voltage is low by a dead battery it is easy enough to test but unless you have moved the batteries to the trunk there should not be that much of a loss. I added a ground at my starter by simply getting a ground strap and going from one of the starter bolts to the chassis if you suspect that is the problem.
 
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chrisp427

chrisp427

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So its just cranking slowly? if you think the voltage is low by a dead battery it is easy enough to test but unless you have moved the batteries to the trunk there should not be that much of a loss. I added a ground at my starter by simply getting a ground strap and going from one of the starter bolts to the chassis if you suspect that is the problem.
So its just cranking slowly? if you think the voltage is low by a dead battery it is easy enough to test but unless you have moved the batteries to the trunk there should not be that much of a loss. I added a ground at my starter by simply getting a ground strap and going from one of the starter bolts to the chassis if you suspect that is the problem.
Yup, battery is in the trunk. I have a 1/0 gauge running for power same size running from the battery to the chassis. 4 gauge running from the battery to the starter. I only have one ground from the motor mount bolt to the body.
 
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chrisp427

chrisp427

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Old battery with a charger on it sometimes won't spin a motor. In AZ if a battery is 2 1/2 to 3 years old it's useful life is usually done. Also, what was wrong with the first starter, same issue?
Battery is brand New. First starter was fine, it was just my first suspect so I replaced it. Didn’t change anything.
 

ttocs

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Yup, battery is in the trunk. I have a 1/0 gauge running for power same size running from the battery to the chassis. 4 gauge running from the battery to the starter. I only have one ground from the motor mount bolt to the body.
So to be sure you have a dedicated 4 awg that goes from the battery to the starter, not just a 4 awg that goes to the fuse box connection under the hood?
 

Randall Garner

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Another thing to look at is the solenoid connector from the fuse block. Its that wire wire it has what looks to be a fuse block. Check that. Also verify your battery ground. When I moved my battery I had to grind the body /frame section to very clean metal to get a good ground. And added as mentioned by others a couple of engine to frame grounds one on each side of the engine. If you keep having issues with pa starters check out a web site called DB ELECTRICAL.
 

Chip66

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What is the voltage at the starter and at the battery when the starter is engaged? If you are seeing voltage anywhere go below 10.5 volts there is not enough amperage available. 11 or more volts while cranking is a sign everything is healthy in the starting system.

If you raised the compression you're going to need bigger cables and possibly a higher torque starter. I had to go all the way to 0 gauge for an 11.3:1 motor. The cranking demand goes up quickly with compression.

Also, make sure your spark timing isn't too advanced.
 
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chrisp427

chrisp427

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So to be sure you have a dedicated 4 awg that goes from the battery to the starter, not just a 4 awg that goes to the fuse box connection under the hood?
So to be sure you have a dedicated 4 awg that goes from the battery to the starter, not just a 4 awg that goes to the fuse box connection under the hood?
Factory fuse box is no longer. I have a fuse panel with a negative/ positive side in the rear of the car. Everything runs threw a master power switch. Ignition, fuel pump, and starter are all on the painless switch panel.
 
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chrisp427

chrisp427

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What is the voltage at the starter and at the battery when the starter is engaged? If you are seeing voltage anywhere go below 10.5 volts there is not enough amperage available. 11 or more volts while cranking is a sign everything is healthy in the starting system.

If you raised the compression you're going to need bigger cables and possibly a higher torque starter. I had to go all the way to 0 gauge for an 11.3:1 motor. The cranking demand goes up quickly with compression.

Also, make sure your spark timing isn't too advanced.
I have 1/0 gauge, nothing gets hot while cranking, no wires smoking. Starter will click after holding it the button for a while. The compression is no more than 10.5.1. I will check the voltage next, thanks.
 

lwarrior1016

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Ya know, I'm continually amazed by how many things I inadvertently solved simply by trying something 'just or gits and shiggles'.
I thought that was a good call bud, your wisdom is showin.
;)
I’ve been burned too many times by over complicating the situation lol. Had an old man at work teach me to start from the very basic, go in to every job and test it like you don’t know anything about the condition. When you “know” something is good, you start skipping steps.

And thank you for the compliment. You’re too kind.
 

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