95 3.8 v6 not starting

heavyhorse1

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I have a 95 3.8 v6 , I have this as a project , I went to the car 2 weeks ago and when I went to start it it ran for about 5 seconds , then I tried to start it again and won't start. I have 40 psi pump pressure when I turn on the ignition. I have had the ccrm checked out and is ok.when I fit a light to the spark plug, I am getting a spark. When I check the crank shaft position sensor I get 1.6-1.7 volts AC when I crank the engine. When I fit a noid light to the injector it does not flash, I have voltage to the injector. I have changed the PCM and I still have the same fault. When I plug in the diagnostic meter the only fault I have is engine temperature control sensor.
Could it be the ignition control module?
When I spray starting fluid in, it will start but not for long.
Can anyone help me.
 

07GtS197

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Is it throwing any codes? It’s not ignition related if it runs on starting fluid. The answer is in your post, the injectors aren’t pulsing. My guess would be an erratic or no pip signal. Best to check codes before proceeding.
 

96blak54

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Im thinking your car has a camshaft position sensor in place of where the distributor would have been? Its possible the camshaft sensor is faulty. Im not sure if there is a way to test these, but the cam sensor is for injector timing. Start by checking out this sensor and work your way from there. Look at the connector for damage or corrosion. Look back from there at the wiring and harness for wire breaks, burns, shorts.
camsensor.png
 

MyLittlePony

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My cam position sensor threw an actual code. Car ran fine, but the check engine light scared me, so I had autozone scan the code for me. Don’t let any car part chain tell you they can’t run codes for 95s!!! This isn’t so much a problem in 2026, because who honestly would drive something that old, let alone admit to owning one <sarcasm> …but back when my 94 was a 3.8, Id get people like this. They’d swear they couldn’t do it because they didn’t have the tool. They could only scan OBDII. When you tell them that your 3.8 is OBDII, despite being older than 96, they’d still refuse, even after telling them that this location had previously scanned the car successfully before.

Anyway, bought a new CPS, and the CEL went away. …but your issue does sound fuel related. Strange that you wouldn’t find a code for that. How’s the connection to the coil pack? Although, if the battery were disconnected at any point, it would clear it, and you would get it again until the car successfully started and ran long enough to trigger it again. Had this happen to me. Same exact issue, but as a 5.0.

TFI/ignition module? Could be a good CCRM, but bad connection to the TFI. This tend to fail intermittently however; like you’re driving find for more than one hour, park, then the car won’t start. Wait an hour, then it will start right back up. The TFI needed to cool down, despite the cars engine not overheating. Sometimes if you really hard core drive it, it may actually stall on you, typically on the shoulder of the left lane of a busy highway, or next to a railroad track. These cars LOVE drama!!!

Also check the Idle Air Control Valve. When mine went bad, I had about 198,000 miles on it. It ran like crap one day, then died. When I’d start it up, it would run for a few seconds, then die. This continued being an issue, but unplugging the connector to the ICV and back would help it start again, once it began to refuse to start altogether, but not reliably. Replacing it helped with a previous issue it had, where it would die on cold starts, if you attempted to shift into reverse from park, as the RPMs would drop significantly with a bad ICV. Car was already a 5.0 by then, but the part is the same, which is why the ICV had 198k miles on it.
 

Miltoid

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Try priming it just to see if it runs. If it starts you have a fuel delivery problem.
 

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