Group, you were so helpful leading me to the source of my odometer problems that I'll pose some other issues that has me scratching my head.
First let me erxplain that I'm the third owner of this low-mileage (75K), 5-speed, GT convertible, having bought it from a female nurse in Nov. 2016 who had owned it since 1997. It's bone stock, in very nice original condition, and has not been abused other than maybe sitting unused a lot in the 15 years before I bought it. Until recently when the EGR was disconnedted (see below) there has been no Check engine light on. Additionally, the ECM has been scanned several times with no codes being set.
Here's the issues that I've been struglling with since purchasing the car in 11/16:
1. Idle is unstable, especially when warm, but not very good even from a cold condition. It always starts fine with an idle of about 800 rpm but then after a few seconds the rpm drops to 400 or so and sometimes, particularly when warmed up, it will stall but is always easily restarted. Performance off-idle is better.
2. When accelerating and shifting through the gears, as the clutch is depressed, the rpm will jump briefly at least 200-300 rpm, then fall right back down. I've been very careful to make sure that my right foot is off the accelerator at the instance the clutch is depressed. I've also checked that the accelerator and speed control cables are not binding. Also, the reuturn spring at the throttle body is quite strong. So I beleive that ther's no mechanical issues in this system.
3. The car seems to miss or buck and jerk during low speed in town operation mostly when cold. I've recently heard this condition derscribed as trailer hitching. I can notice a slight similar condition at speeds up to about 55 mph.
Over the course of time I have replaced every vacuum line I could find, new upper intake manifold gasket, new Motorcraft IAC, new O2 sensors, complete tune-up with OEM spark plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor, ignition module, and more. Recently, my mechanic suggested that the EGR valve be disconnected and plugged as a trial. That has been done and I do see some inprovement with Item 3 above. Otherwise, no difference with Items 1 and 2.
I apogize for the length of this message, but, for anyone who is still with me on this and who may have struggled with similar issues, I'd like to have any suggestions you may have to offer.
Thanks again,
Richard P.
Troy, Ohio
First let me erxplain that I'm the third owner of this low-mileage (75K), 5-speed, GT convertible, having bought it from a female nurse in Nov. 2016 who had owned it since 1997. It's bone stock, in very nice original condition, and has not been abused other than maybe sitting unused a lot in the 15 years before I bought it. Until recently when the EGR was disconnedted (see below) there has been no Check engine light on. Additionally, the ECM has been scanned several times with no codes being set.
Here's the issues that I've been struglling with since purchasing the car in 11/16:
1. Idle is unstable, especially when warm, but not very good even from a cold condition. It always starts fine with an idle of about 800 rpm but then after a few seconds the rpm drops to 400 or so and sometimes, particularly when warmed up, it will stall but is always easily restarted. Performance off-idle is better.
2. When accelerating and shifting through the gears, as the clutch is depressed, the rpm will jump briefly at least 200-300 rpm, then fall right back down. I've been very careful to make sure that my right foot is off the accelerator at the instance the clutch is depressed. I've also checked that the accelerator and speed control cables are not binding. Also, the reuturn spring at the throttle body is quite strong. So I beleive that ther's no mechanical issues in this system.
3. The car seems to miss or buck and jerk during low speed in town operation mostly when cold. I've recently heard this condition derscribed as trailer hitching. I can notice a slight similar condition at speeds up to about 55 mph.
Over the course of time I have replaced every vacuum line I could find, new upper intake manifold gasket, new Motorcraft IAC, new O2 sensors, complete tune-up with OEM spark plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor, ignition module, and more. Recently, my mechanic suggested that the EGR valve be disconnected and plugged as a trial. That has been done and I do see some inprovement with Item 3 above. Otherwise, no difference with Items 1 and 2.
I apogize for the length of this message, but, for anyone who is still with me on this and who may have struggled with similar issues, I'd like to have any suggestions you may have to offer.
Thanks again,
Richard P.
Troy, Ohio
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