95' GT 302 5.0L Kicking between 1300 and 2100 rpm

vavasound

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Hi Folks... I'm tired of trying to find the issue on my 95' Manual stock GT.
My pony has 39k miles on it and is "brand new" but there is one thing that is making me crazy.
When I'm running on partial load on a plane road within a constant speed my car "kicks" when the speed is between 1200 & 1900 RPM.
What is strange is that my Tachometer indicator seem to follow this kicks and the speed always drops like 100 rpm by each kick...
If I have this condidion of "kicking" the engine speed shown is less than the real one in the engine (since I didn't lost the vehicle speed and I didn't hit the clutch) and I reach a down hill if I take my foot of the gas pedal the rpm "climbs" to show the exact speed... and if I hit a little the gas, then the speed drops a little and the engine starts kicking again.
In WOT conition the car runs great! no problem at all, unless when I reach above 3000 rpm that I start to hear a detonation and it continues until 4000 rpm.

The problem is intermitent, I read something telling about a similar issue on this website:

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/7thx...tang-gt-5-0-sputters-kicks.html#ixzz3RwvIZnTo

I changed my coil to a MSD (Same size of the stock one), changed the sparks, looms, rotor cap, and nothing. When the car is cold seems to be okay but a little time later the problem comes again...

I am really thinking about my TPS but I will not eliminate the knocking on WOT after 3000 rpm, but I would like to have a help from you guys about the kicking that is really annoying....
thank you all!!



 

vavasound

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Well, I didn't checked it yet, but since the car was never fixed I don't really know if it will be out of point... I will check... but I really think that maybe is something with TPS or who knows...
 

toyman

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The TPS is easy to check. With the ignition key on but engine off (KOEO) measure the voltage across the TPS signal wire and ground. The voltage should start at about 1v and increase as the throttle is opened with about 4.7v @ WOT. The voltage increase should be absolutely smooth with no dead or flat spots. As mentioned, remove and clean the MAF sensor element. An absolute must. The other absolute must are the battery to engine and engine to chassis grounds. They must be clean and solid. Also check for corrosion in the cables close to the terminals. And check for stored trouble codes .
 

Fast stang16

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I had the same problem. Ended up being the timing was off!!


1994 5.0 forged internals, 12:1 Pistons, x303 cam, edelbrock upper and lower intake, trickflow heads, 70mm throttle body, 1.6 rockers, msd ignition, 24lb injectors, underdrive pulleys, bassani exhaust, 4.10 gears, 5 speed
 

vavasound

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I will check it!!

The TPS is easy to check. With the ignition key on but engine off (KOEO) measure the voltage across the TPS signal wire and ground. The voltage should start at about 1v and increase as the throttle is opened with about 4.7v @ WOT. The voltage increase should be absolutely smooth with no dead or flat spots. As mentioned, remove and clean the MAF sensor element. An absolute must. The other absolute must are the battery to engine and engine to chassis grounds. They must be clean and solid. Also check for corrosion in the cables close to the terminals. And check for stored trouble codes .

Thanks [MENTION=10841]toyman[/MENTION] and [MENTION=18915]Gelsomini[/MENTION].

I was thinking about check the TPS not looking at the voltage and yes at the resistance, but the voltage seems to be more efficient since I will check at the same time income power at the sensor as well.

Regarding the MAF I will do it as well, and about the ground to my engine is everything clean, and I created another ground directly from the battery to the bottom of the coil, so, this I have sure that is not the problem. I Checked the resistance between my Battery Negative to the coil and with the engine off it stays in 12 Ohms and with the engine on is 40 Ohms...
the strange thing that it is intermittent issue... and does not appear most part of the time when the engine is cold.
 

vavasound

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still kicking and knocking after the timing set up

I had the same problem. Ended up being the timing was off!!


1994 5.0 forged internals, 12:1 Pistons, x303 cam, edelbrock upper and lower intake, trickflow heads, 70mm throttle body, 1.6 rockers, msd ignition, 24lb injectors, underdrive pulleys, bassani exhaust, 4.10 gears, 5 speed

How many degrees did you set?

Well guys I cleaned up my MAF sensor and I checked out the timing...
The MAF was a little bit dirty and the timing was about 13 or 14 BTC... I get it back to 10 degrees (I didn't forget to remove the PIP connector to set the timing) the conclusion is:
I still get the kicks between 1200 and 2200rpm and I still get a little bit of knocking (much less than before I set the timing)
What it could be?
I am thinking about injectors now.. Sometimes my engine is a little "squared" at idle... I mean.. Looks like sometimes one cylinder fails at idle and I have some shaking on idle..

Thank you all for the attention

Cheers
 

Snakebitten95

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my car wasnt losing coolant or oil but was pushing air through the water and blew my water pump... i believe it blew when i over revved it when the automatic transmission lost third and fourth gear when i was passing someone
 

RichV

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Looms = plug wires??

If you have not changed the wires, do it. And use higher quality wires. Timing at 10* is good. Make sure plugs are gapped to spec, do not use platinums.

Have you checked codes with a reader?
 

vavasound

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looms, sparks, coil, distributor ca, are all brand new!

Looms = plug wires??

If you have not changed the wires, do it. And use higher quality wires. Timing at 10* is good. Make sure plugs are gapped to spec, do not use platinums.

Have you checked codes with a reader?

No I didn't checked codes since the car is OBD 1 maybe? I have some code readers here but no one works on my Gt 95... Do you know anyone specific for this Car?
 

CC'S95GT

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No I didn't checked codes since the car is OBD 1 maybe? I have some code readers here but no one works on my Gt 95... Do you know anyone specific for this Car?

buy a freeking haynes manual! It tells you how to read codes with a freeking paperclip.
 

toyman

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These are OBDI systems. A reader costs under $25. The diagnostic port is in the engine bay passenger side between the strut tower and firewall.
 

vavasound

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Guys... I think that I find out... At least I found something strange... I am right now attempting to change my TPS when I took off the first bolt of the idle actuator that stays over the TPS (it is impossible to take the TPS off without taking this other component out) I realized that the gasket of it was assembled in a wrong way and the bolts weren't tighten... I assembled it in the right way and tested and for my surprise seems that the car is worse.... now when I hit the clutch when I am @2500 rpm seems that the car get accelerated and after 1 or 2 seconds the rpm starts to go down...
any clue?

oh... and the problem still persists... I didn`t changed the TPS since the OEM is good!:embarrassed:
 

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