95 GT 5.0 E7 Head 12 Second Build?

beyondEOD

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Saw a thread over 9n corral in the drag racing section about e7 heads. Those guys are running some good times on minimum parts. I have a few ideas and was looking for feedback if you dont mind.

Goal is 12s NA that can daily drive with ease.

What I was thinking.

95 GT 5.0 AODE car
-GT40 Upper
-GT40 TMOSS Lower
-Stock cam retard 4 degrees
-70mm TB
-Stock Air Box w/K and N
-Smog/Egr Delete
-Crank and WP UD pulley
-Revised/Updated/Jmod VB
-3.73 gear
-RCI Mid length Headers, Cats and Xpipe
-3000 Torque Converter

Suspension:
-Tube K with coilover
-Rear Baseline street setup with teamz springs and strange 10 ways.
-26" tire


Couple of questions.

1. Setup thoughts?

2. What MAF for stock Air Box?

3. Capable of 12s N/A with supported suspension and Tire?

4. Tuning Recommend?

5. 1.7 Roller Rockers worth anything with e7 heads?

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evilcw311

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I just don’t see how anyone can honesty hit 12’s n/a with e7’s. You can port and polish till your blue in the face and then do it again. There’s just not that much to work with.

Not saying it’s not possible, just saying


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beyondEOD

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I just don’t see how anyone can honesty hit 12’s n/a with e7’s. You can port and polish till your blue in the face and then do it again. There’s just not that much to work with.

Not saying it’s not possible, just saying


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Good feedback is welcome. I appreciate honest feedback because I'm on the fence of just putting on gt40p heads or not.

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07GtS197

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Id go with a higher stall and more gear due to the aode’s lame gearing as well. Maybe do some weight reduction as well.


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evilcw311

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Good feedback is welcome. I appreciate honest feedback because I'm on the fence of just putting on gt40p heads or not.

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What’s more important to you? Building a fun stang to drive or competing in this challenge? That’s what ya gotta ask yourself.


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beyondEOD

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Id go with a higher stall and more gear due to the aode’s lame gearing as well. Maybe do some weight reduction as well.


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I'd be okay with a 3.90.

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beyondEOD

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What’s more important to you? Building a fun stang to drive or competing in this challenge? That’s what ya gotta ask yourself.


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Fun car. I've had too many $$$ builds that broke all the time and were nasty to tune.

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07GtS197

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I have 4.10s in my 87 grand marquis (not the same but still a 5.0 and aod same gearing) and it would be a good combo for a mustang. A high stall and 4.10s would make a huge difference alone.


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white95

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You can absolutely do this. I’ll expand when I get home.

That sounds like Todd’s old recipe. It works. Tuning will be absolutely necessary to nail it down.

The GT40 stuff is cool and Todd does wonderful work but you’d get further with a Holley Systemax 2 or TFS Track Heat especially ported.

You could further your cause with meaningful weight reduction and steep gears like 4.10’s or 4.30’s..

Move the battery to the trunk for better weight transfer.

The corral has lots and lots of old threads on this exact subject. The path has been traveled many times before and I’d be very happy to see someone try this again!!
 
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evilcw311

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Great suspension setup, great wheel and tire combo, modified auto with a good stall, and you might hit 12.90’s.

But I bet it would take larger valves and some serious port and polish work. Plus some major weight reduction


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beyondEOD

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You can absolutely do this. I’ll expand when I get home.

That sounds like Todd’s old recipe. It works. Tuning will be absolutely necessary to nail it down.

The GT40 stuff is cool and Todd does wonderful work but you’d get further with a Holley Systemax 2 or TFS Track Heat especially ported.

You could further your cause with meaningful weight reduction and steep gears like 4.10’s or 4.30’s..

Move the battery to the trunk for better weight transfer.

The corral has lots and lots of old threads on this exact subject. The path has been traveled many times before and I’d be very happy to see someone try this again!!
Definitely will be moving weight around where I can.

As for tuning I'm looking into a QH setup, still not sure though as this would be a big learning curve. What I have not found yet is a library of base tunes which would help. Thus is something I've seen with other platforms that really helps a novice tuner get started.

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evilcw311

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I had read over those threads before and if I had kept my beast looking stock then it might of made sense. But the problem I have with it is the cost to gain value. Read closely and most of those guys explain why they end up havin way more money in their e7 heads then they would of had in aftermarket.

That’s why I asked what’s the goal, fun car or true performance. I’m all about getting as much bang for the buck and somethings just don’t make sense. It’s why I don’t like imports. Spend 10x’s as much as is to make 1/4 the power.


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beyondEOD

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Makes total sense. I'm also considering a set of gt40p heads and a small cam if that is what is needed to make this easier/more consistent.

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white95

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Do exactly what you want to do. Sure, there is always an easier way but in a perfect world we’d all have professionally build race engines with twin turbos plus an unlimited maintenance budget too.
 

96blak54

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A close friend ran a naturally aspirated Volkswagen beetle in low 9sec quarters every weekend..... With great certainty, i believe a 12sec e7 head v8 can be achieved easily and be streetable.

I will add in, that he used stock ford 5.0l pistons and honda rods. Everything modified, of course, but still running the stock 1600cc aircooled heads.
 
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beyondEOD

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Okay so some updates where this is going.

Stock cam degreed -4
GT40p heads with valve job
Explorer lower intake
Ford motorsports upper intake
1.7 RRs
Stock MAF and TB
Explorer 4 hole 19# injectors
QH tuning
UD pullies

Baseline street rear setup with 1 coil cut on stock springs. Bilstien drag shocks. Energy end links.

TeamZ Kmember w/coilovers.

Relocated Battery

4R70W swap
Mach1 TC
Aluminum Driveshaft

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96blak54

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Need to figure out where the exhaust valve starts to crack open. Rolling the cam back -4° essentially delayed the exhaust valve which in turn is good, but you added 1.7 roller rockers and that cancels out what you would have gained in power due to valve timing events being increase from 1.6ratio to 1.7 ratio.

If it where me, id find a lower ratio rocker and lower weight valve spring. The lower ratio will reduce opening point and the lower weight spring will allow the valve to float a little more increasing overlap as rpm climbs....in turn making up for the closing point set by the 1.7ratio
 
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beyondEOD

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Need to figure out where the exhaust valve starts to crack open. Rolling the cam back -4° essentially delayed the exhaust valve which in turn is good, but you added 1.7 roller rockers and that cancels out what you would have gained in power due to valve timing events being increase from 1.6ratio to 1.7 ratio.

If it where me, id find a lower ratio rocker and lower weight valve spring. The lower ratio will reduce opening point and the lower weight spring will allow the valve to float a little more increasing overlap as rpm climbs....in turn making up for the closing point set by the 1.7ratio
I will take measurements with cam installed dot to dot and make up a cam card before I source the RR. Thanks

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