95 gt keeps dying ?? HELP!!!

sn95turd

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ok... so I have a 1995 gt and car. Bone stock other than a new bbk X pipe. It will start and idle and Rev up fine but when I put it in drive and start to drive it. It will cut off and die within 25 yards. Will not start back up until it sets for a few minutes. but when I go to drive it. It will die again. I have replaced the coil , plugs, cap and rotor, ignition control module, air temperature sensor, mass air meter, iac valve, tps sensor, fuel pump, ecu... can't figure out what's causing it to die. Please help!!
 

toyman

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Before guessing and spending more on parts pull the trouble codes.
 

Michael Plummer

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Your engine needs (4) things to run. Air, fuel, spark and compression. Found out which one your missing and continue from there. I highly recommend a spark tester from your local parts store and get a noid light to make sure your injectors are firing.
 

Tony Corley

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100% agreement with Michael ^^^^^. Before you can determine what's causing the problem, you need to figure out what the problem is. Obviously air and compression will not come and go, so you need to determine what's missing when it shuts off, fuel, fire, or both. Then someone can do a better job of helping you cure it, without continuing to just throw parts at it. But for the sake of a quick, easy check on these cars, check the ground wires on top of the radiator support. Make sure they are clean, have metal to metal contact and are tight. They cause all kinds of drivability issues if not. It probably is not the solution, but doesn't hurt to check.
 

sn95turd

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I have a scanner and the only codes I'm coming up with are the egr and air pump. Egr cause I deleted it and haven't turned it off. And the air pump cause I put on a shorter belt and deleted it. No other codes present. I have air fuel and spark. It's only when I try to drive it. Is when it dies. Injectors are all working properly. O2's are reading rich on both banks.
 

CC'S95GT

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smog pump will not cause a code. I've had it bypassed for 6 months with no CEL. I also had is e-ck'd in Feb and it passed with flying colors.
 

sn95turd

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Yeah I have no cel either. I'm suspecting the pip in the dizzy.
 

Tony Corley

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Once it shuts off and during the time it won't fire back up, it still has correct fuel pressure, fire at the plugs, and the injectors are firing? If you are saying it never loses any of those, then you need to start looking at the trans/convertor as the culprit. Convertor locking up at low speed will stall the engine. Jack the rear of the car up ,and with the wheels off of the ground, start it and put it in drive and see if it shuts off. But if you have not checked it for any of the previous while it's not starting, then do that first.
 

sn95turd

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OK I'll try that next. I'll keep you posted. It supposed to rain. Might not get to it tonight
 

sn95turd

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Well...I got it jacked up off the ground put her in drive and everything was going OK for a minute and then it died. was it supposed to die ? Or run through all the gears? Seems like dies when it hits 2nd gear.
 

sn95turd

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I can't get it to run a drive cycle to reset the emissions. My scanner says that both o2s are reading rich. Might have something to do with my egr delete.
 

markstang

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I've had the same problem with my 95 and after doing a lot of shit like you I rebuilt the distributor and solved the problem. I don't remember what part was bad but I had to remove the shaft. Wasn't hard and took care of the stalling. Hope it helps
 

Tony Corley

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Well...I got it jacked up off the ground put her in drive and everything was going OK for a minute and then it died. was it supposed to die ? Or run through all the gears? Seems like dies when it hits 2nd gear.
Will it die with your foot on the brake, and the tires not turning? If not, then let your foot off of the brake, in drive (with the tires in the air) without giving it any gas at all. See if will continue running while it shifts through the gears (at idle). If it does, then give it gas and see if it dies. I'm trying to help eliminate if it's a trans issue or engine issue. Other things you can try is while the tires are in the air, keep the shifter in low and give it gas, if it doesn't cut off, then manually shift to 2nd and see what happens. Process of elimination is all this is, since we are not there with you to help out. If we rule out the trans/convertor as an issue, then it's time to move back to the engine. Make certain to pay attention to what rpm it shuts off at, and if makes any difference what gear it's in.
 

sn95turd

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Will do. Im going to try getting a new distributor after I try these trans tests.
 

Tony Corley

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It could be the distributor, I just prefer to rule everything out before spending money to buy parts. You originally said it only died when in gear while driving, and would free rev fine. Based off of that, I want to rule out the trans as a culprit. Then, there are ways to test the other components without just spending money to replace them. Actually diagnose the problem instead of just changing parts.
The problem is that it takes longer to tell you how to do it on here. I'm certain that if the car was in front of me, the problem would be diagnosed in 30 minutes or less.
 

blackhorse

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I had two problems with stalling in the past . One was the PIP sensor (hall sensor/pick-up coil inside distributor) . Didn't help put another distributor unit . The problem was solve with a motorcraft PIP sensor.

The other problem was a strange one : the fuel pump hanger electric contacts start to loose inside the tank and the engine began to stall intermittently . It was a pain to find out this problem .

Had to buy another hanger . In that time I thought about make holes in the hanger and run the wires through them , sealing then with JB weld ... But I was afraid of leaks occur , so I bought another hanger.

fuel%20pump%20hanger_zpsmdjsafap.jpg
 

sn95turd

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I made a video on what the car is doing I'll try to post it to you tube in a few
 

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