Hello to all. My 1995 Mustang GTS 5.0 died today. I was in the drive through and all of a sudden the motor just turned off and when I turned the ignition off and back on again it would only turn over and over again but not start. I've tried changing the ignition coil, checking the battery, testing the alternator, spraying starter spray in the throttle body to see if it was fuel related and nothing. I've since had it towed back to my house to diagnose it further. After a days worth of research I called and ordered a CCRM at my local auto parts store. I will pick it up and install it in tomorrow when it comes in. Can anyone help me diagnose it further or verify that the CCRM may in fact be the culprit?
If not the ccrm then it's the dizzy. Pip's inside our dizzy' are notorious for this This message courtesy of crapatalk!
Thanks for the speedy responses fellas. I haven't been able to pull the codes yet because the reader I have is for 1996 and newer OBD-II vehicles. evilcw311, I recently replaced my distributor cap and rotor with a new MSD cap and rotor. Still waiting for the CCRM to be delivered. If the CCRM doesnt do it I will go back to my old cap and rotor. After looking through the Haynes repair guide I believe it might be the Distributor ignition (DI) module by the air cleaner too. Any input is greatly appreciated.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/pulling-codes.819324/ you don't need an obd1 reader to pull codes. Click the link and follow the instructions for 89-95 cars.
I had this happen once on my way to work. The car just stopped running while I was driving. In my case, I found a one of the wires in the connector for the coil had worked its way loose. Moral? Look for simple problems before spending a boat load of cash Autozone troubleshooting.
I checked the connectors. Tried the new CCRM and the car still wont start, also put back the stock cap and rotor. I'm going to attempt to jump the wires to pull the code now.
Jumped the wires and when I turn the ignition to on position the fan kicks on for a few seconds then turns back off. Check engine light didn't flash at all though...
Got it to spit out some codes! Here's a link to the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ-JMDQs4jI I believe it is the fuel pump now. Even though I can hear it and I did try the starting fluid spray. The second code is for checking voltage on the fuel pump.
The code that it is throwing is 654 I looked it up and it means 654 - MLP sensor not in park position Not sure what it means or how its stopping the engine from starting... After it flashes the code twice it just flashes once every 3 seconds. Does anyone have any knowledge oh this module next to the air filter being the culprit? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Firing-Control-Module-Coil-for-Ford-Mercury-Lincoln-Van-Pickup-Truck-/131573320270?fits=Year%3A1995%7CModel%3AMustang&hash=item1ea2618a4e:g:zCoAAOSwT6pVxLGI&vxp=mtr
If you can hear the fp run then chances are that the fp isn't the issue. The pip inside the distributor (dizzy) sends the signal to the computer for spark. It is also what keep the fp running after the initial prime. I'm leaning toward the the dizzy being the issue first. You can test the pip by removing the dizzy (remember the location of the rotor and dizzy position) then while it's removed plug it back in. Cap doesn't need to be on. Turn the key on but don't start it. After the fp initial prime turn the rotor and listen for the fp to come back on.
I'm still goin with the dizzy. Cap and button have nothing to do with what we are saying. This message courtesy of crapatalk!
I figured it out! Turned out to be the ignition control module. The same one I was talking about before (DI) Module. Thanks for all the help and knowledge. Side question, does the CCRM have to be programed to install. I know these cars still had chipless keys so I don't see why it would need particular programing but I could be wrong...
