'95GT hiccups @2000rpm under load... help...

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DavidBoren

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Thanks for the heads up. Is it something that will be pretty evident when we get to that point, or is there a trick that I should know before removing the valve?
 

CC'S95GT

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Thanks for the heads up. Is it something that will be pretty evident when we get to that point, or is there a trick that I should know before removing the valve?

You can't really see it without looking straight down. It under the PCV vlv and you'll need some needle nose pliers to get it out.
 
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DavidBoren

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I see that a lot of pcv valve replacements come with a new screen. You said to be sure to remove the screen when I remove the old pcv valve... is this something I should leave out, for some sort of benefit? Or were you just saying that I need to make sure to replace the screen as well as the valve?

Sorry for the novice questions. I am new to Mustangs... as in, I don't have a Mustang. This isn't my car. Just trying to help Tyler out.
 

CC'S95GT

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YES replace the PCV and screen. It's on the top rear of the intake manifold next to the firewall
 

badsheep5.0

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It was garaged. Before but any way last night we replaced the cap and rotor and it's still doing it so more work to do but can't get mad I've had it for a year and this is the first problem I have had with it
 
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DavidBoren

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By the way, we went to pick up a new PCV valve, and the one at O'Reillys didn't come with a new screen, and it was not shaped the same as the valve currently in the engine.

The replacement they wanted us to use was shaped like an "F", giving it one too many hose barbs... as the one currently in the intake only has one barb, connecting to one hose.

Were they confused? Or is the "F" shaped valve correct?
 

CC'S95GT

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The replacement PCV I got also was F shaped but it came with a plug. It also fit loosely in the hole but a couple of wraps with electrical tape had it fitting snug un the hole.
The PCV screen also comes seperately.
 
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DavidBoren

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I didn't want to break the part, so I didn't think of yanking the "F" off the valve, but that might work.

And we could easily plug one of the barbs.

But this particular replacement didn't seem to fit in the hole, like it was too larger.
 

CC'S95GT

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you can do that too.
I just prefered to plug one of the ports in the F and put the vacuum line on the other one
 

GregT94SCC

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Usually soaking the screen in carb cleaner is sufficient if its just dirty. I believe that on many replacement pcvs the plastic "F" portion pulls free from the valve itself, leaving you with the correct sized barb
 
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DavidBoren

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Ok, we will see if the "F" is removable. If not we will just plug one of the ports. I still think they may have given us the wrong piece. It didn't want to go in its home.
 

GregT94SCC

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The original motorcraft ones were plastic and fit snugly. The aftermarket replacements ones always seemed loose in comparison. As the rubber bushing ages and hardens it only exacerbates the problem. I'm not sure about using tape to fix the sealing issue. I would probably use a bead of rtv but let it almost cure prior to inserting the new pcv. Vacuum leaks are unmetered air after all.
 
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DavidBoren

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The replacement valve had a metal body, looks very similar to a car's cigarette lighter, and it was actually too big to slide into the intake. We can try it again, but my first impression was that it straight up didn't fit. And I didn't want to force it.
 

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