96 Mustang GT 5 speed manual. Just did a complete brake job new rotors and pads. Replaced all of the pins and guides on it used anti seize on bolts and brake squeel on pads. The car stops great but what I am running into is that when the pedal is depressed right when I'm at the stopping point the brake pedal drops a little and pulses. It feels like the passanger side caliper is sticking and then releases. I am a new owner of this mustang and I have done a few things to start driving it. New trans mount new ujoints. Looking for cobra or mach one springs and shocks/struts for it and that will be next. I didn't replace the calipers and I am wondering if the front passanger side is sticking. The car sat for a year and didnt move started every once in a while but that was it. I would love to put cobra brakes on it all around or even upgrade them to the 04 calipers. I would like for this to be my DD but with the brake issue I am concerned that it may be more than the calipers. No ABS light on and the brake fluid is full. Any help would be great and maybe a push in the right direction on the calipers also. This is a cobra clone it has all of the badges and bumpers for the cobra but I am debating if I should change it over to a GT like it should be. Any suggestions.
96 GT brake issue
- Thread starter Dwhitzdad
- Start date
I would start there for sure. Specialy on something that sat a long time. Almost sounds like the ABS is engaging or the caliper locking up. But start with a good bleed. Some Valvoline synthetic fluid DOT 3/4 rated.
Wichers123
Well-Known Member
Btw cobra/Mach shocks and struts and springs are the same for gt cars so don't waste your money. A
Wichers123- thank you for that info on the shocks and struts. I wasnt sure the ones that I have on the car now you can tell have been heated so they were done way wrong. So this winter Im looking at rebuilding the whole front end I was told that the cobra front a arms are off set and they bring the tire forward alittle more or something like that I dont actually remember. Looking at getting all of the parts before I do the rebuild. also looking for a good frame connector set also figured might as well while I have it up in the air
RichV - I was wondering if I could use the synthetic brake fluid thanks for that didnt get a chance to bleed then out today I got a buddy coming over tomorrow to help. What is the best way to bleed them out do all 4 like your supposed to or bleed out the master cylinder then bleed them individually
RichV - I was wondering if I could use the synthetic brake fluid thanks for that didnt get a chance to bleed then out today I got a buddy coming over tomorrow to help. What is the best way to bleed them out do all 4 like your supposed to or bleed out the master cylinder then bleed them individually
Just make sure it's DOT 3/4, NOT DOT 5!!
Start bleeding passenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger front, then driver front. MC only gets bled when you install a new one.
Have your buddy in the car pump 3-4 times then keep pressure on the pedal. Then you open the bleeder at the caliper, DO NOT LET HIM TAKE PRESSURE OFF THE PEDAL until you tighten the bleeder back up. Use a clear cup, or a white cup works well, note the color of the fluid coming out.
The 1st one will go slow, keep at it until you see absolutely clear fluid. Don't forget to add brake fluid at the MC every 2-3 bleeds.
Start bleeding passenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger front, then driver front. MC only gets bled when you install a new one.
Have your buddy in the car pump 3-4 times then keep pressure on the pedal. Then you open the bleeder at the caliper, DO NOT LET HIM TAKE PRESSURE OFF THE PEDAL until you tighten the bleeder back up. Use a clear cup, or a white cup works well, note the color of the fluid coming out.
The 1st one will go slow, keep at it until you see absolutely clear fluid. Don't forget to add brake fluid at the MC every 2-3 bleeds.
