96 GT Ford Racing / SVO project

[evilcw311]

Well I fixed the two wires that were mixed up and plugged everything back in leaving all the wires exposed in case I need to keep chasing issues.

I fired it up and it starts much easier but it still has a noticeable miss. I plan to dissect the drivers side portion of the wiring harness next and see what else I screwed up

This is why your supposed to work on the harness in a well lit room and be sober.

Putting a harness together in the dark while drunk never ended well for anyone!!!!

Don’t judge me fawkers, you all know you’ve done it before!!!!! [emoji1787]


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[Burninriverdiver]

This is why your supposed to work on the harness in a well lit room and be sober.

Putting a harness together in the dark while drunk never ended well for anyone!!!!

Don’t judge me fawkers, you all know you’ve done it before!!!!! [emoji1787]


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Haha that's too true! I took my hood off again because it was blocking so much light, so that should help me see the difference between blue and green. I have a hard enough time doing it right sober so adding a few beers in the mix would make it even more of a disaster lol.

 

[ttocs]

I learned long ago not to even try to do alarm installs stoned. Just WAY too many wires....

 

[96blak54]

I grabbed an extra wiring harness long ago thinking ill have a spare. One day out of boredom at work, i took that harness in along with a multimeter just to check it out. To my finding was 2 wires not making continuity. Careful inspection showed zero signs of damage and great terminal connection. Those wires had to be broke within the wire jacket somewhere along within. Probably the reason why the car got parted out....faulty harness and the owner frustrated with trying to repair the car. Racking his brain trying to figure out the problem and just gave up.

Anyhow....take that crap out and double down on connections. Be 100% sure

 

[Burninriverdiver]

I grabbed an extra wiring harness long ago thinking ill have a spare. One day out of boredom at work, i took that harness in along with a multimeter just to check it out. To my finding was 2 wires not making continuity. Careful inspection showed zero signs of damage and great terminal connection. Those wires had to be broke within the wire jacket somewhere along within. Probably the reason why the car got parted out....faulty harness and the owner frustrated with trying to repair the car. Racking his brain trying to figure out the problem and just gave up.

Anyhow....take that crap out and double down on connections. Be 100% sure

I've been going through it quite a bit and did catch a few mistakes and semi-loose connections but still have made no difference in how the car is misfiring. I also took a Dow rod and listened to all the injectors and they seem to be clicking along properly.

I stumbled upon an almost perfect photo over on TCCoa forums showing the vacuum harness but there was one or two lines I couldn't see 100% so I tried several configurations without a noticeable difference.

I made a thread over there too asking about the vacuum harness so that might help it out if someone can chime in.

After that I'll have to re-tighten the manifold bolts (even though carb cleaner didn't make it jump in rpm when spraying around). Then I'm out of ideas.

 

[ttocs]

Have we tried technical taps and jiggling stuff yet?

 

[Burninriverdiver]

Have we tried technical taps and jiggling stuff yet?

I've been doing lots of technical tapping and jiggling. I havent resorted to hooting like a gorilla and using a rubber mallet but that's next on the list!

The coil pack resistor connections weren't looking great so I tore them apart to clean them and they are reading a solid 13.4v while the car is running now so that's ruled out.

 

[evilcw311]

Do you have a way to datalog?


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[Burninriverdiver]

I do have an SCT X4 that supposedly does datalogs but I think I may have made a discovery...

I pulled all the spark plug wires one at a time and each one is firing away when the engine is running. The engine seems to stumble when I pull each individual injector so I think those are doing fine too.

I watched an old video of right after I installed my comp xE-262-ah cams 2 years ago and realized that my engine shook a little more than normal (but ran great for 2 years). So I pulled the belt off and realized that the knock is coming from the snout of the supercharger. I'm not ruling out a misfire but the snout spring might be what's causing my knocking issue.

 

[Burninriverdiver]

I let it run and it's idling smooth except for the sound of a box of rocks shaking in the front of the supercharger. I used a dowel rod to pinpoint the sound and it was coming from the snout. After seeing all the slack it has when turning the pulley by hand (no tension with the belt removed) and doing some googling it looks like I have a bad coupler.


Anyone have advice on a good coupler to replace it with? And does anyone know if a standard m112 coupler fits on this unit?


Edit: ordered a new coupler and oil off Amazon. I think I've been chasing the wrong issue all along

 

[Burninriverdiver]

Installed the new solid coupler last night, the thing fit so snug in the pins that it took some tapping with a plastic hammer to get the snout seated and there is no slack in the pulley anymore.

I wanted to give the rtv gasket some time to dry before filling it with oil so I'll fill it up tonight after work and see how it runs.

 

[PinkieT]

Good luck!

 

[Burninriverdiver]

Threw some oil in the supercharger case and fired the old pig up. It's running pretty damn smooth now with the new coupler and stock MAF, Injectors, and tune. It is rich as hell (14-15 to 1 on my AFR gauge) but that'll be sorted out.

I'll probably email the tuner tomorrow and order some FRPP injectors so he can finish remote tuning the car with the proper supporting air and fuel components. I also need to put the wiring harness back together and clean things up a bit.

 

[ttocs]

Talk to your tuner to see what injectors he recommends. Tuning it requires he know the data on them and I was surprised to find some injectors that I thought were ford racing something and could not find ANY data on them.

 

[Burninriverdiver]

Talk to your tuner to see what injectors he recommends. Tuning it requires he know the data on them and I was surprised to find some injectors that I thought were ford racing something and could not find ANY data on them.

He recommended the 47# ones with adaptors from his website (so I assume he's familiar with them):
https://dirtydirtyracing.com/produc...jector-set-with-ev1-adapters-for-87-04-fords/

I should've bought them already but I wanted to make sure I got the car running straight before I spend any more

 

[01yellercobra]

14-15:1 at idle isn't rich. It pretty dead on. Start throwing ethanol into the mix and it gets worse. I was wondering about running a set of 47's in this generation.

 

[Burninriverdiver]

14-15:1 at idle isn't rich. It pretty dead on. Start throwing ethanol into the mix and it gets worse. I was wondering about running a set of 47's in this generation.

Thanks for the info, I guess I have no information to back my claim that it's running rich but the smell. That could be 100% due to the off-road midpipe though!

The 47lb injectors and EV1 adaptors should be here near the end of the week, I plan to install them and finally put some miles on the car

 

[DKblue98GT]

Nice work getting it sorted!

 

[01yellercobra]

Thanks for the info, I guess I have no information to back my claim that it's running rich but the smell. That could be 100% due to the off-road midpipe though!

The 47lb injectors and EV1 adaptors should be here near the end of the week, I plan to install them and finally put some miles on the car

If you're not running cats you're going to smell the fumes. I think we tend to forget how potent they can be in the world of emissions. I hated it when my cats blew out.

 

[ttocs]

my tuning is set for 13.9 at idle and after just replacing a catted x with an offroad x I can confirm there are more fumes.