96 still running hot! what can i do now?
- Thread starter MoonlightGT
- Start date
Mine started doing that and it was a blown head gasket, when I bought the car it had a cracked radiator so I had a bronze one made, another cooling fix for 96 mustangs is to remove the grille in front of the radiator and if you notice 97 & 98's don't have a grille!
danroadking
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Awesome site
I do have the same problem with my 96 GT, I already change the water pump and thermostat but nothing change. :help2:
I do have the same problem with my 96 GT, I already change the water pump and thermostat but nothing change. :help2:
How do you make sure all the air is out of the system. Because I'm having problems with my '96. The only difference is I have a '99 motor in it. And am not sure how to check the fan with out taking the chance of overheating it again.
tajmas said:
Remove the Radiator Cap and turn on the heat full blast and raise the RPM's for a few minutes...that should do it.
Did what you said DropTop, with cap off and heater full blast. A/f blew out canister, and I shut it off to cool, then I'll fill and do it again. I changed the cooling temp sending unit, and no a/f came out, but when I checked the thermostat, fluid was in the intake, but none came out. So I guess I just keep blowin' it, and fillin'. The fan hasn't come on yet, unless I turn on the a/c. And the temp gauge hasn't barely hit "N" on the gauge, even after letting it run for awhile. Idk?
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Thomas_W
Well-Known Member
tajmas said:
what is A/F blowing out canister? Nothing should come out of the degas bottle with the car running. you should see movement in the coolant, but it shouldn't bubble out.
If its bubbling and blowing out of the degas bottle, you most likely have a blown headgasket
Thomas_W
Well-Known Member
tajmas said:
yes.. but if the car is running and coolant is coming out of the degas bottle like a water fountain then you most likely have a blown headgasket. Reason being is, everytime one of the cylinders near the blown headgasket area goes into its compression stroke it pressurizes the cooling system blowing the coolant out of the degas bottle
danroadking
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any1?
black_96gt
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OFTEN TIMES THE CCRM MODULE OR THE FAN MOTOR ITSELF WEAKENS ON HIGH SPEED OR DOES NOT SWITCH AT ALL. I USE A 180 STAT, A NEW FAN ASSEMBLY, SCT X-CAL TO TURN THE FAN ON SOONER AND I WELDED A GM STYLE BLEEDER ONTO THE T-STAT HOUSING TO BLEED THE COOLING SYSTEM WHEN IT IS COMPLETELY CLOSED. ONLY HAD TO BLEED IT ONCE, WHEN I DID THE INTAKE. BIGGER RADIATORS ARE ALWAYS ONE OF THE BEST SOLUTIONS ALONG WITH CERTAIN COOLANT MIXTURES AND ADDITIVES. I USED DISTILLED WATER AND REGULAR GREEN COOLANT, 60% WATER, 40% COOLANT AND ONE BOTTLE OF ROYAL PURPLE ADITIVE. MY CAR HAS NEVER RUN HOTTER THAN 230 DEGREES... IF YOU HAVE A SERVICE MANUAL FOR YOUR CAR IT WILL WALK YOU THROUGH THE TESTS ON THE CCRM (INSIDE WHEELWELL). IT RARELY FAILS COMPLETELY BUT IT WILL CHANGE THE VOLTAGE THAT THE FAN SEES, THUS AFFECTING ITS OUTPUT. IT'S WORTH A SHOT TO CHECK THE FAN MOTOR'S VOLTAGE AS WELL... 
maybe this kit would help... http://www.mustang-unl.com/itemdy01...Heating/Cooling&subCategory=Fans&CatKey=74-01
can anyone help me out here... yall got it easy.. running along the interstate my hotrod hits L :noes: on the gauge.. uncool. freaks me out everytime i ride along the I-26.. but maybe its my 4.10s doing it.. 2600rpms at 70 mph isnt exactly heat saving solution. whats up with V guys? she aint sick is she?
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