96blak54 Reanimated

[ttocs]

well I have nothing against autozone. BUT I must be honest that after buying its stock last week to watch it bounce back nearly 20% now I am a little bit biased. I have nothing against the products it sells but I wish the dudes they hired had half the knowledge of anyone at a napa store....

 

[RAU03MACH]

Not me
I put some China carriage bearings in a differential I picked the differential up off the table and all the roller bearings fell out
The cage was perfectly round with no damage
At the time I needed them and nobody else had them locally
Pure junk

 

[96blak54]

Saying fare well to this engine block. The leaking cylinder held coolant bars leak mix for 5months and it etched the cylinder. Itll need a .010" over.

I used the bars leak due to my widen edelbrock intake had a pin hole leak in the weld. Just enough to weep a puddle on the intake crossover, so i used the bars leak to stop it. It worked, but im gonna say it got me later etching the cylinder wall.

Oil pan removed, pi pistons/rods removed, block cleaned up a bit, some black paint. I got the block ready for a quick hone. Then ill pull out the flattop pistons /rods and swap them in with new rings. Keeping cost low here is key. And unlike the blown engine, im not re-using headgaskets this time.

 

[96blak54]

In process of undressing the heads so that i can deck them true and a few other gimmick tricks that i will apply.

So decking the heads will bring it to .130" decked...lmao... Thats over an 1/8" of inch!!
Also to note the timing components were fine with the modified tensioner i made to take the chain slack of the decked heads. Running well pass 6000 rpm on a continuous base when driven

 

[ttocs]

In process of undressing the heads so that i can deck them true and a few other gimmick tricks that i will apply.

So decking the heads will bring it to .130" decked...lmao... Thats over an 1/8" of inch!!
Also to note the timing components were fine with the modified tensioner i made to take the chain slack of the decked heads. Running well pass 6000 rpm on a continuous base when driven

are you restarting project 18:1?

 

[OLD H2S]

See if you can find a windage tray from a 3V, it will really stiffen up the bottom end and clean up the high rpm's.

 

[96blak54]

are you restarting project 18:1?

No. No funds for special pistons.

 

[96blak54]

See if you can find a windage tray from a 3V, it will really stiffen up the bottom end and clean up the high rpm's.

I already have one thanks to warrior. Problem is the 5.4l bottom end and main caps are nothing like a 4.6l and would require modifying to fit and probably wouldnt fit with a mustang oil pan after its all said and done. Great ideaa tho!

 

[evilcw311]

are you restarting project 18:1?

Nope, he’s heading towards 20:1!!!!! [emoji1787]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[96blak54]

The thought of 20:1 is funny...but id do it if it were possible

 

[96blak54]

I got the cylinders slightly honed and cleaned. Cleaning them takes a good 45min and a roll off paper towels. I like the rolls with the half sheets. Keep wiping the cylinder out with fresh towels untill the towel doesnt show any sign of dirt. Then wipe down with tranny fluid and start all over again untill super clean.

Mounted the 3v oil pump courtesy of Lwarrior.
And if anyone wanted to know, a 3v pump body differs slightly, the pump gears are .040" thicker, and requires the bigger pick up tube. I just had to disassemble a stock pump and this 3v pump to compare. Lubed up the 3v with assembly grease before buttoning up. Then mounted it.

Then mounted oil filter housing and motor mounts.

 

[lwarrior1016]

Fantastic! I’m glad to see some momentum in here. Can’t wait to hear it run again.

 

[96blak54]

Better yet, im ask the wife for my balls and see if i can come visit!!

 

[d.garza18]

Love seeing the progress my man! Keep it up!

 

[96blak54]

Thank you

Got the rods torqued

The bigger 3v oil pump pick up tube clashed with the oil pan bottom so i had to remove the screen cover like so.

 

[96blak54]

I corrected the screen. Tucked in place and took vise grips around the rim crimping it in.

Mounted the oil pan. Added a little bit of black paint

 

[lwarrior1016]

That’s odd. I never had a problem with that before. I also used arp studs and they say you have to shave the pickup tube stand a little bit, that might have helped.

 

[96blak54]

Very true. The pick up tube is very close to the bottom of the pan. With gasket placed and pan sat down, there was interference. Removing the pickup screen cover allowed just enough room.

Now Placing the pan on without the gasket, the pan didnt seat and rocketed on the pickup tube. The gap between where the pan gasket is was a tiny bit less than the gasket itself.

The original pick up tube didnt have the screen cover either and resided at the same heigh as well. I can really see any difference here. My luck has it, that screen cover probably aids in suction. Pulling oil up with a stronger affect at startup....

 

[lwarrior1016]

Very true. The pick up tube is very close to the bottom of the pan. With gasket placed and pan sat down, there was interference. Removing the pickup screen cover allowed just enough room.

Now Placing the pan on without the gasket, the pan didnt seat and rocketed on the pickup tube. The gap between where the pan gasket is was a tiny bit less than the gasket itself.

The original pick up tube didnt have the screen cover either and resided at the same heigh as well. I can really see any difference here. My luck has it, that screen cover probably aids in suction. Pulling oil up with a stronger affect at startup....

Eh, I don’t know, that tube will be submerged in oil. I think you’ll be fine.

 

[96blak54]

Im over thinking it. Thinking maybe the oil gets all swirly from manipulating forces and cavitates. Perhaps This is why the screen cover was there.

Ill stop thinking!

The man warrior has spoke!